MTFCA Forum

I’m looking to buy, borrow, or take some pans to a pan straightening jig near eastern Pa, Southern NJ or Delaware. Anybody know of one in my area? I bought that ‘24 Coupe that was involved in a crash, near Reading Pa, a few years ago. The frame is toast and I’m expecting that the pan also got tweaked in the accident.

It is extremely difficult to straighten a twisted pan. It would be easier to just replace the pan if it is badly twisted. I speak from experience. The pan jig will tell you where the pan is supposed to fit, but getting it there is a whole new ball game.

The use of a pan straightening jig is shown here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCUIal3 ... G&index=33

While he is not in Eastern Pa., Kevin Prus in Columbiana, Ohio has a pan jig and has straightened a number of pans for me. He re-brazes the leak points as well. Good folks to deal with.

Taking a few pans out to Kevin Prus may turn out to be my best option if I don’t come up a solution. Metal working is just something that I happen to do everyday, so I feel fairly confident that I could tickle this bugger back into spec if it is out.

We have a couple of frames that have been cleaned and painted, ready to go in Richmond In. If interested call me 765 969 6338.

While my 1925 cutdown with 4 dip pan, did go down the road straight, the ball mounting and area around is twisted to one side. I am guessing it was hit at some point is its life. I am thinking that with the tools I have (yes I have a torch and big A's hammers LOL), the better route for me is a better pan to start out with, instead of trying to beat this one into submission. Even the socket is now worn off center.

I think you had better plan to use a replacement pan. They are not rare, expensive parts. Yours can probably be repaired with an absurd amount of time and patience. Better to pick up a good one and use all that time repairing other things.

An additional "note" regarding 4 dip pans - due to the removal of material to access the 4th rod, the front r.r. socket was relocated and if a front end collision occurred, the socket can be quite easily pushed in towards the flywheel ! I've yet to locate a drawing that indicates what the distance specification is in that area but if any indications show the pan might have been in an accident, do a "dry-fit" by turning the engine over prior to final assembly.

Steve,
I have a full scale drawing of the Model T pan.
The horizontal distance from the centerline of the wishbone ball cap to the centerline of the drain plug is 4 5/16 inches. That is the Ford 4/15/15 revision.
I am sure others here may have a later revision.
Harry Lillo
Calgary

Dave. .. In Eastern Pennsylvania there is schwalms babbitted bearings, 332 Georgetown road which is route 896 in strasburg Pennsylvania. Phone area code 717 -687-6976.. the owner is Ora Landis. He performed excellent work on my engine 20 years ago and I'm still very satisfied. Good luck with your needs.

Dave. .. In Eastern Pennsylvania there is Schwalms Babbitted Bearings, 332 Georgetown Road which is route 896 in Strasburg, Pennsylvania. Phone area code 717 -687-6976.. the owner is Ora Landis. He performed excellent work on my engine 20 years ago and I'm still very satisfied. Good luck with your needs.

Many thanks Harry ! I'm assuming that dimension is the same between either c.c. as the drain plug never moved.

Hey Bob! I had reached out to Ora this morning and am awaiting his reply. I kind of get the impression that he has gotten away from doing T stuff anymore and is concentrating solely on the Model A’s. I bet your mentor had one of these jigs…. He had some cool stuff in that garage!

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 06, 2022 10:42 am

I've heard tell of making a jig from a 26-27 block and hogshead bolted together. I aim to give it ago.

That wouldn't work by just bolting them together. The fourth main alignment tool that locates the pan and hogs head to the assembly.
If you tried to straighten pan off the engine you don't have anything to go by other than pan rails .
If the rear flange of the oil pan was off you wouldn't be able to see it by resting oil pan to the block.
Same goes if the oil pan is tweaked at the hogs head where it goes around the flywheel.
Then you also would have to straighten the engine mounts which 90% are always tweaked.

I'm sure you're familiar with the straightening jig as it aligns the front and back along with center all one 1 plane .
I'd be amazed if you could get it to work by bolting hogs head to block and going for it.

Dave Young wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 06, 2022 6:03 pm

Hey Bob! I had reached out to Ora this morning and am awaiting his reply. I kind of get the impression that he has gotten away from doing T stuff anymore and is concentrating solely on the Model A’s. I bet your mentor had one of these jigs…. He had some cool stuff in that garage!

We're located in Massachusetts if you wanted to bring it to us and can't find anyone closer.

Dave Young ..... My mentors son will be checking the garage this weekend for a pan straightening jig. Described it to him, does not sound familiar, but will check. I do hope that Ora Landis will be returning your call shortly.

Thanks John. I’ll keep you guys in mind.

If a block is used to layout some of the holes please note the holes are different on the front left and right.

 
The pan jig layout dimensions are here :

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23464&p=180459&hili ... ig#p180459

Thank you so much for those drawings, Bob! wonderful information