MTFCA Forum

Finally got the tank out of my coupe and got after my rust problem. Turned out to be more there than I realized. I probably got morethan a cup of dry rust out, including a few chunks. Because I was quoted $650 at a gas tank renew place, tjis became a do-it-myself project.
Looks like I found a really effective product: Metal Rescue rust remover bath. It comes in a small white bottle and looks like water. Mix with 1 gallon of water and pour in; no smell no burns, etc. I paid right at $20 each for two bottles at Autozone.
It’s been soaking for about 3 days and it does clean it to bare metal. I am turning the tank every day to soak another portion as two gallons did mot completely fill it.
I have two quarts of the white tank sealer supplied by Bill Hirsch’s company. I used this about 30 years ago on a tractor tank and it hasn’t failed yet.
I do have one question: because of the design of the tank outlet, how do I prevent the sealer from completely blocking it when it cures, so the gas is not blocked? Any experience or ideas about this?

Gas tank sealers I have used are not thick and will not close off the outlet. You can remove the gas shut off bulb and thread a pipe plug fitting into the outlet fitting to protect the threads and keep the sealer from pouring out. Give the sealer time to dry and just remove the plug. Whatever sealer builds up on the plug will stay on the plug and be gone when you remove the plug.

Good for you. I would not use a 30 year old product to seal a tank even if the can is unopened, and I would also carefully clean and treat the inside of that overflow pipe that passes thru the tank. Just a thought, jb

James, I don't think he was meaning to use the stuff he bought 30 years ago. I read it as a product he had used 30 years ago and was prepared to use the some of the same product again, having had a good result with the previous lot.

My only thoughts are why source different products to do certain steps of the tank rejuvenation project, when the POR 15 tank treatment system provides compatible products for each step in the one package. I have never had a problem with the kit they supply, other than stumping up the cash for the purchase. I consider it money well spent.

Allan from down under.

I haven't tried to do it myself, but found a radiator shop which would clean the tank and seal it. That was done about 2006 and still doesn't leak nor clog the carburetor. With the older cars, I just buy a new tank, but the suppliers don't make a new one for the 26 or 27.
Norm

Another thing to consider while reworking the tank is the baffles. Most tanks I have seen have loose baffles in them which make a lot of noise. My 27 has screws soldered in from the outside to hold the baffles. At least one of them drums very loud. My 26 has never been fixed and it drums also. I believe the baffles were spot welded originally.

I did buy new product!
The baffles in my tank seem solid.
As for the cleaner, I cleaned the tank years ago with Draino crystals, no longer available. The product I got:Metal Rescue concentrate, at Auto Zone, works great, no smell, apparently notvrisky to use either.

The best way to clean one of these tanks is to cut it open at the welds, clean/sandblast/coat it, and reweld it together. You can get by for a while with other methods but this way is permanent.