MTFCA Forum

Been under the weather fighting this and that, winter crud.

Progress has been well lately as I am getting toward the end and wish to share knowledge and methods.

The purple filler is Evercoat Fibertech, a Kevlar reinforced resin that is excellent for supporting welds.


Indexing the ends and baffles to ensure no twisting.
Baffles are very important anytime you have fuel above 5 gallons and above the frame, sudden aggressive maneuvers is very dangerous and can cause roll overs, etc. Installing the baffles where the retaining straps are located on a mis-shaped, odd tanks helps keep form when tightening.
Notice the small reinforcements where the seam is, this keeps the panel straight and prevents fuel sloshing like a mini tidal wave.


Setting the lower skin to the ends first then baffles, following the index marks exactly,


Don't forget to dimple the bottom for removing all the fuel.

More coming...,

After all is attached, time to take apart and sand all areas to be welded and de-burr from drilling. Then reassemble for the final act..



Some Bonus Photos to follow...,

Dave sent me his hood for header relieving with the lower panel staying attached to the firewall and attached to the radiator by means of a pinch plate.

She definitely needs louvers with a header. We put the louvers at the same angle as the seat, fuel tank, this keeps a flow of motion in design. Looks hot just sitting there.




Pre cutting the opening will prevent distortion of the metal by a great amount.


More stuff....,

Very nice!!
Thank you for posting

Extra good !!

What exactly are all the little copper posts ?

Sorry Dave, Long day in the porcupine factory.

Those are Cleco's. We use them in panel fabrication since panels are removed so often for fitting. We don't weld to close to them as this will distort the internal springs, but work too as a heat shunt

Hank

Very nice Henry!
Thanks for showing and explaining the process. I really like explinations because little things like indexing to keep from having a twist can mean everything in the end result.

" always trying to learn Dallas"

Hank,

Really nice looking craftmanship, coming along beautifully, really appreciate the pictures and explanation as you progress through your project.

Thanks for sharing

Joe

Hank,

What is your trick to filling in the holes used by Cleco's

THanks

Joe

Some bonus techniques I forgot to mention.

After fitting the outside ring for the end cap to side panel, I leave the wood in place with the Cleco's. By doing this if you cause smoke you are welding to much for to long and the wood helps control heat equally as you bounce from one end to the other preventing distortion. After all "pearl" welding is complete, I come back in very short runs with plenty of cooling cycles and put another weld towards the inner side of the panel. This technique in tin/panel making causes a light tempering of the metal. A very good thing when you are wanting to preserve a shape in smaller panels such as this one with doming. Always use a quality metal for excellent results.


The baffles are to by no greater than the outside of the wood template, where as the end caps go over the template. This keeps everything just right for total assembly and in the correct plane.


All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See


Remove the Cleco's and weld in the hole Joe, it is only an 1/8".

Some extra photos to inspire.


Rear spring cover, matching in a scaled down profile of the hood.


Built a combination rear hood pin holder and rear view mirror mount.


And a real beautiful Tennessee Mountain Black Walnut Dash.


Enjoy!


Hank

Amazing work Henry! Impressive!

Beautiful work Hank, as always.

Thanks for sharing.

Here are some more photos with extras on how to preserve for years. This fuel tank still has twisting/flex capability due to the welding method on the baffles. If you look closely at their attachment, you will notice from straight plane to curve there is no welding (that is the reversing of the L braces). I only attach the baffles though holes every 1 1/2" apart like a spot weld but with better fusion. I have a spot welder, a very good one (Miller) but I like very good welds on fuel cells. Personal preference.

Some extra's I do are a full Fiber Tech on the outside welds since we are making a smooth appearance and the vibrations in the car's design. This supports welds. Also I clean and remove all oxidation from welding in the lower section of the tank since this area is more prone to issues later. Afterwards I use 3M Panel Bond Adhesive as a super seam sealer over those welds and joints. Seams a bit overkill, but I believe in total prevention of a known process.
I am only giving a 50 year warranty, but it should last at least a 100.


All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

I like it when; The Tin Man Looses his mind! Thanks Hank for sharing your beautiful work.

Amazing Hank!

Great work Hank! Thanks for sharing with us.







Jason Walters