MTFCA Forum

Yes. Alternator not charging 1926 T with the VW distributor and the GEAR DRIVEN 12 volt negative ground alternator (one wire) . I have pulled the alternator off and its on the work bench. It is a Delco Remy and has a paper tag that says "Buckeye Auto Electric" The gear on the shaft looks like its held on with a roll pin that is only set 1/2 way into the alternator shaft ( like they don't want you to fix or replace it with a parts store one) A new one runs about $250.00. I also know that it has an internal regulator. Any ideas? part numbers? Thanks, bobt

Alternator failure? How can this be? Original generators are unreliable & must be changed out for a modern alternative. What will we do now? maybe build a hamster wheel to regenerate the needed voltage. Sorry, couldnt resist.

Does it smell burnt? Any good auto parts should have a live test machine. You tube videos have been helpful for internal diagnostic tests. Can contact the MFG. This might not be the first one of their units to stop working.

He asked for help, not sarcasm...

I believe that the one wire conversion only charges a few amps, other may know better but why I'm posting is I've seen those drive gears that are only held on with a roll pin work out and break into pieces and chewing up the cam gears. The threaded and pin gear ones are the way to go.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 09, 2022 7:28 pm

He asked for help, not sarcasm...

OH lighten up, My comment is a jab @ the whole gen/alt controversy regularly seen here.
just kidding around & you'll notice, I did offer several, IMO solutions.

Thank you Jerry. bobt

Many times, the Alternator will overheat causing one of three windings in the Stator to "darken", this will happen on early Alt. conversions with an External cooling fan as that is removed as part of the conversion. Newer Alternators that have been converted for use in a Model T have built in internal cooling fans. NO Alternator is designed as a Battery charger a mistake made by many folks even with Modern Vehicles, if you need to jump your car because the Battery is down or Bad trying to recharge it by driving only will cause the Alternator to overheat & possibly due Damage. It does not matter whether you have an Alternator or Generator the System needs a Good battery to preform properly & neither are a battery charger. On those with a Roll pin for gear retention it helps to run a Non-metallic safety wire thru the Pin & around the gear. George

Just so there is no confusion on the statement "NO Alternator is designed as a Battery charger"
--
An alternator is responsible for charging your car battery while driving. (maintaining...)
https://www.firestonecompleteautocare.c ... rnator-do/
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However an alternator is not design to charge a dead or deeply-discharged battery.
https://www.optimabatteries.com/experie ... -batteries --
--
Battery Chargers vs Maintainers

Used to be common for the "roll pin" to break up on these conversions. They actually use a C pin, not a roll pin. A C pin is much weaker. An actual roll pin looks like a jejjy roll.(not common today) They should be using the proven solid pin as Ford did. Cutting corners. Anyone running one should convert to a solid pin before, not after the C pin shatters.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 10, 2022 11:21 am

Used to be common for the "roll pin" to break up on these conversions. They actually use a C pin, not a roll pin. A C pin is much weaker. An actual roll pin looks like a jejjy roll.(not common today) They should be using the proven solid pin as Ford did. Cutting corners. Anyone running one should convert to a solid pin before, not after the C pin shatters.

Very true!!! I've seen several C-Pins fail in this application, on alternators and generators alike.

Is the correct solid pin tapered or straight?

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 10, 2022 1:20 pm

Is the correct solid pin tapered or straight?

Model T is a piece of solid steel rod. No taper. 3/16"? if I recall.