MTFCA Forum

My 1911 has two major oil leaks, one of them is at the right side of the trans where the high gear shaft goes thru the hogshead. I have attached pictures of that leak. How can that be fixed? The other leak, drip drip drip is at the front of the hogs head between the hogshead and oil pan and I will probably replace the hogshead gasket. While I have the hogshead off I would also like to fix some minor leaks at the rivets on the oil pan engine mounts. I would appreciate advice on fixing those and the shaft leak. Thanks, Art

I usually braze the rivets on the inside to assist in oil leak prevention. On the trans. cover clutch shaft, there was a "repair" article years ago regarding that leak - it requires disassembly of the clutch fork to shaft then an O-ring, spring & washer is placed onto the shaft side protruding into the cover - not a task for the faint of heart.

Art,
I have seen posts about using O rings, washers, and springs to plug those clutch shaft lleaks.
Keith
: ^ )

The only articles I could find was concerning leaks on the left side of the shafts. Thanks, Art

Art, when I rebuild an alloy trans cover, the worn shaft holes all receive a thin walled bronze bush and a proper lipped oil seal around the pedal shafts.
The clutch shaft open end you show is the easiest one to fix, permanently. The bush on that side protrudes about 3/8" out when it is fitted flush on the inside. Into that protruding end I fit a cup type freeze plug. Leak solved! [The worn alloy holes are all hand reamed to fit the bushes.]
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

I'm sure I will be criticized for this, but the amount of movement in degrees of the clutch shaft is small. On my beater 14 it leaked out the right side. I cleaned it and covered it with a gob of silicon. That was 3 years ago and still sealed. Saves the hassle of pulling the cover.

The use of a spring, washer, and o-ring is shown on page 30 of the MTFCA Transmission booklet. That example is on the left side of the shaft but would work on the right side too. You would need to remove the clutch fork pins/rivet and repin. The Hogshead video that Mike Bender has on you tube shows another method of cutting a groove in the shaft for an o-ring in the hogshead wall that might not work on the right side, thinner area to work with.