New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

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Guardian1fox2
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Sat Mar 12, 2022 4:51 am

TRDxB2 wrote:
Sat Mar 12, 2022 2:00 am
Ignition switches can be repaired (I have done several) and some parts are available. Repro ones are expensive...
You said that going over a bump knocks it off might be an issue with the fiber backing plate or the ends of the contact rings being worn. This is a picture of good contacts both on the rotating rings and the backing plate. Notice the roundness of the contacts, how do yours look after cleaning?
The ignition switch is actually two switches in one - the key turns the inner ring to select the voltage source. The handle is used to operate the lights by rotating the outer ring
IMG_2406.JPG
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T suppliers sell backing plates and switches and rivets for the style that needs them remove in order to replace the tumbler. That's the type you have. They do not sell the rotating rings. Sometimes the fiber backing plate warps and a light sanding solves some problems. Bending the metal contacts, is not advised as they can break, and doesn't help if the corresponding brass socket on the backing plate is blocked. In other words the contact needs to nestle into the brass pocket. Those tracking lines caused by rotating the switch are normal.
Thanks for all this info, extremely helpful. My backing plate looks like a biscuit on the side, looks like it’s starting to separate maybe from moisture? Very flaky, and I had to be careful with it. It does seem the plate is “swollen” and the contacts aren’t level with the exterior of the plate. I’ll pull it off and do some more cleaning and light sanding perhaps I can repair. The contacts on the ring if I remember looked more “cone” shaped than round, and a little distorted. I’ll take a look and see if I can find a replacement backing plate. I haven’t driven the car yet or got it to move but by bump I mean any movement to the switch and the key moved left or right a hair…the most minute change it loses contact.

I need to pull the panel and switch apart anyway again cause if I am gonna keep this switch I need to repaint. The previous owner painted the entire thing GOLD and it looks terrible. I’d like to get it back gloss black but that’s just the housing though. Lol

Edit: Went and found the plate, I didn’t know they sold just this piece. I think this will do it and fix my switch and ignition woes:
27CAECF4-9D49-427D-801C-72D6EC0AE5DC.png

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Steve Jelf
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Steve Jelf » Sat Mar 12, 2022 11:59 am

Before you reassemble the switch turn the tabs red (not hot enough to melt) and let them cool so they won't break off when you bend them down.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Sat Mar 12, 2022 3:16 pm

Its not unusual for backing plate to look water damaged (edges separated a bit). Its a real problem with the pin style and not so with the clip type that you have. The important part is that the contact surface b relatively flat and nothing in the tracks made by the rotating contacts block rotation. Sometimes when you turn the key to an ON position you feel a stop but its not really in position and just a bit more effort gets it there (too much and you'll break the pot metal tumbler, when that happens the wafers fall out and as does the key)
So be creative and paint it with the cup in place - just tape the inside bottom) There is no electrical contact inside the cup, just that the rings need to rotate on the bottom of it. All electrical contact is between the conatct rings and backing plate, anything else is a short.
Do not take the switch apart to paint it unless you have to. It can become a can of worms immediately. The type switch you have (my favorite) has a flange on top on the handle that is fits between the face plate and cup. To take the the handle off...
The large rotating ring comes off easily, then smaller ring needs to be pried upward off the back of the tumbler. Then then the rivets need to be drilled out and that's where you can ruin the switch plate when they start to spin enlarging the rivet hole. Laying the faceplate down the handle should be able to be removed BUT before you move it the key needs to be in the tumblers in order to hold the wafers (pins) in place so they don't fall through (not to hard to get them back in the proper order - only 4). So now you paint it and then try to put the stainless steel rivets back in - with the appropriate rivet clincher (not the one sold by supplies is the wrong size). Hopefully you don't mess up the paint job as you try to peen the rivets (remember the tumbler and handle are in place when you try to do this).
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Sat Mar 12, 2022 5:59 pm

Thanks guys! I sold the Model A truck bed locally, so I’m about to order some parts. I wanted to ask, should I buy the 600W oil for the rear axle off of Lang’s or is there something better/modern I should use instead?

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by A Whiteman » Sat Mar 12, 2022 6:05 pm

Langs oil is fine. You may find the oil locally. My preference is a thicker gear oil. Modern thinner gear oil works too, but also tends to seep out a little easier too!

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Sun Mar 13, 2022 1:36 pm

Minor point but Lang's ad calls 600W grease not oil. The "W" does not mean winter for a grease as in oil but a reference to its weight as grease is usually discussed. Yes, grease is oil with additives to make it thicker and sticky. Problem with vintage documentation is that we sometimes interpret it in Today's jargon. I even found a reference where oil in the early 1900's suffixed with a "W" meant whale oil. :?
One needs to consider the additives in Today's greases, oils, and any fluid when using them in a Model T. Will they have an effect on brass, copper, bronze, babbit, felt etc - all the materials that linger in your engine and differential. If the rear axle was rebuilt it is likely to have brass thrust washers (does the oil/grease contain active sulfur -bad). I'd stick with a formula designed for an application. If you don't have any buy two, on for the first fresh filling and the other to keep it at the proper level
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Guardian1fox2
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Sun Mar 13, 2022 10:37 pm

TRDxB2 wrote:
Sun Mar 13, 2022 1:36 pm
Minor point but Lang's ad calls 600W grease not oil. The "W" does not mean winter for a grease as in oil but a reference to its weight as grease is usually discussed. Yes, grease is oil with additives to make it thicker and sticky. Problem with vintage documentation is that we sometimes interpret it in Today's jargon. I even found a reference where oil in the early 1900's suffixed with a "W" meant whale oil. :?
One needs to consider the additives in Today's greases, oils, and any fluid when using them in a Model T. Will they have an effect on brass, copper, bronze, babbit, felt etc - all the materials that linger in your engine and differential. If the rear axle was rebuilt it is likely to have brass thrust washers (does the oil/grease contain active sulfur -bad). I'd stick with a formula designed for an application. If you don't have any buy two, on for the first fresh filling and the other to keep it at the proper level
I went ahead and ordered 2!


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Guardian1fox2
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Sun Mar 13, 2022 10:39 pm

Can anyone read this engine number? I tried looking it up but I don’t think I’m reading it right. In person it’s even harder to read so I took this pic but still can’t make it out. May try to use some chalk or something tomorrow I’m just curious. Looks like 6700070 or 67000770…but that doesn’t make sense to me if it has another 7 in there. If the first number is right that’s a 1922 motor on a 1925 frame/body? Unless it was in the rogue highland transition?
1ABEED8F-00E9-4E67-BBEF-D6E237DC1A9B.png

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Sun Mar 13, 2022 11:52 pm

Guardian1fox2 wrote:
Sun Mar 13, 2022 10:39 pm
Can anyone read this engine number? I tried looking it up but I don’t think I’m reading it right. In person it’s even harder to read so I took this pic but still can’t make it out. May try to use some chalk or something tomorrow I’m just curious. Looks like 6700070 or 67000770…but that doesn’t make sense to me if it has another 7 in there. If the first number is right that’s a 1922 motor on a 1925 frame/body? Unless it was in the rogue highland transition?
1ABEED8F-00E9-4E67-BBEF-D6E237DC1A9B.png
Looks like 6700070 - best to just rub some lacquer thinner over the numbers should remove the paint. It is not unusual for engines to have been replaced back hen or even now.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Steve Jelf » Mon Mar 14, 2022 12:20 am

If Frank's reading of the serial number is correct, the engine was assembled on Saturday, October 28, 1922 (almost four months into the 1923 model year).
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 12:43 am

While I was looking at the engine number I noticed that the firewall brackets may be incorrect. Thee shouldn't be a spacer between the bracket and firewall. Likely they are for a wood firewall. The firewall also appears to be a 24'-25' high firewall. So you need to measure the radiator shell to see if it matches. Low vs High requires a different hood. The discussion is long but I don't know if that was covered. Also start to a diary & document what you have and a ledger of your expenses (save receipts). Tax laws are changing and when a Model T is sold the Government will be looking for their "fair share" a tax on a Capitol Gain (sold price - investment cost).
frw.png
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:28 am

I’ll go take a measurement on the radiator and see if I can find a frame number. Boy don’t get me started on taxes, it’s getting ridiculous. Old cars have been prolly paid for multiple times just with their taxes. You get taxed on what you wake, taxed on what you buy, taxed if you give someone money, hell you get taxed and leave money when you die! I’ll never understand why you gotta pay taxes on a private sale between two individuals where the taxes were already paid when purchased new or from dealer. Man when will enough be enough huh? Lol next thing you know they’ll be sending collectors to your house again to see what you got they can tax. Makes me wish it was still easy to get paid cash and not use a bank cause they gonna start watching your accounts as well!


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:29 am

TRDxB2 wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 12:43 am
While I was looking at the engine number I noticed that the firewall brackets may be incorrect. Thee shouldn't be a spacer between the bracket and firewall. Likely they are for a wood firewall. The firewall also appears to be a 24'-25' high firewall. So you need to measure the radiator shell to see if it matches. Low vs High requires a different hood. The discussion is long but I don't know if that was covered. Also start to a diary & document what you have and a ledger of your expenses (save receipts). Tax laws are changing and when a Model T is sold the Government will be looking for their "fair share" a tax on a Capitol Gain (sold price - investment cost).
frw.png
Forgot to mention I do have a hood and it fits, however there is something funky going on with radiator shell I’ll post pics. I ordered with other parts the actual mounting bolt/spring set to do it correctly.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Mark Nunn » Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:39 am

Your flaky biscuit switch plate can be strengthened by using superglue between layers, then clamping it flat. Mine works well now.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 1:20 pm

Mark Nunn wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 8:39 am
Your flaky biscuit switch plate can be strengthened by using superglue between layers, then clamping it flat. Mine works well now.
Wow I didn’t think of that! I ordered another back from Lang’s. I’ll save it though


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 1:24 pm

Here’s some pics. I couldn’t find a frame number. I looked on the top rail on both sides by where emergency brake connections are. I got distracted and moved on lol
C50F4C1E-E603-4BEE-B27B-2BD219422657.png
5D7BB555-E722-42F6-B211-47C82005E311.png
02AD5BBA-C6E1-4EC3-A400-03707B8FD8B7.png
31833E0D-B81B-49AD-93FB-70A730CBD28C.png
7A9E2C49-0C58-4CE6-9982-4065A89874C9.png


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 1:27 pm

Every pic I post I gotta do a screenshot of because it won’t upload…says size but I can upload a screenshot that’s larger MB lol. Anyways, the previous owner was apparently a fan of Christmas 😂

Grease cup on trans is stuck, gonna use some Kroil and let it set and see if I can get it off. Radiator mount is about $20 in washers lol I ordered the correct mounts yesterday. Included measurement of radiator from bottom of it to the top of shell. I believe the element size was 17” tall from bottom to top of cooling area.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by speedytinc » Mon Mar 14, 2022 1:31 pm

Looks like some one used a low radiator & raised the shell so a high hood/cowl would fit.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Steve Jelf » Mon Mar 14, 2022 1:41 pm

Yes, a low radiator's cooling area is about 17" high. If you want your radiator to fit the shell and hood, it would be a high radiator (1924-1927), about an inch taller. On the other hand, the low radiator should work, even if it looks silly. :D
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 2:38 pm

WELL DAMN lol. What a smorgasbord of parts! Looks like I’ll be looking for another radiator I guess lol boy this is getting expensive! Im glad I didn’t get this ones leak fixed yet! Plus with the fins missing in the center where it looks like a spear went through it would’ve been extra im sure. :cry: so I guess I got a shirt shell as well lol

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 3:17 pm

If your thinking of doing a speedster, keep the firewall, shell and radiator. You can mount the radiator and shell properly and make a make a hood or have it made (less sides). It would give a nice rake to the body lines. Least cost too. Not sure what you have in mine but you can sell the cowl portion with or without the dash. The issue with pictures is no surprise. Camera photo's need to be adjusted via an app
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by mbowen » Mon Mar 14, 2022 4:35 pm

Guardian1fox2 wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 1:27 pm
Every pic I post I gotta do a screenshot of because it won’t upload…says size but I can upload a screenshot that’s larger MB lol.

I get that error whenever I try to upload a portrait-oriented photo. The same photo rotated to landscape uploads fine.
Miles
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 14, 2022 7:00 pm

TRDxB2 wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 3:17 pm
If your thinking of doing a speedster, keep the firewall, shell and radiator. You can mount the radiator and shell properly and make a make a hood or have it made (less sides). It would give a nice rake to the body lines. Least cost too. Not sure what you have in mine but you can sell the cowl portion with or without the dash. The issue with pictures is no surprise. Camera photo's need to be adjusted via an app
I noticed I don’t have the lower part of the radiator shell, should I get one? Or would it not look right?

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Craig Leach » Mon Mar 14, 2022 10:33 pm

Hi Jacob,
Boy did you hit a gold mine of info. I wish I had known about this website when I started in the hobby. One thing I will caution you on is using a star washer on your ground. It is a great way to get a electrical connection on a dirty or rusty surface. but it leaves a gap that can collect dirt & rust over time and can come back to bite you later long after you forget it. Best connection is a clean smooth suface. remember the ground is the other half of the elecrtical circuit.
Craig.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:20 am

Guardian1fox2 wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 7:00 pm
TRDxB2 wrote:
Mon Mar 14, 2022 3:17 pm
If your thinking of doing a speedster, keep the firewall, shell and radiator. You can mount the radiator and shell properly and make a make a hood or have it made (less sides). It would give a nice rake to the body lines. Least cost too. Not sure what you have in mine but you can sell the cowl portion with or without the dash. The issue with pictures is no surprise. Camera photo's need to be adjusted via an app
I noticed I don’t have the lower part of the radiator shell, should I get one? Or would it not look right?
You don't need an answer to that question (spend $$) until you have the mechanical parts up to snuff and have decided upon what it is you want your T to look like (speedster, pickup etc). In fact the parts may get in the way later and get unused. But the question does bring up the subject of "how to order parts efficiently". Shipping costs can eat you alive so you need to plan what to buy and when. A bundle of parts that fit into a 10"x5"x2" might cost $10 to ship - if you were to add a 24" long part weight 12oz the cost would jump dramatically if shipped together. However if you ordered long parts together later you'd be saving on shipping costs. Shipping costs are based on density (volume & weight). Simple example: 2.5lbs in a 10"x5"x2" box might cost $10. Shipping 2.5lbs of ping pong balls would require a 1 cubic foot a box (The Internet i s great. 432 balls) cost $14. So plan on everything you know you need now to get it running right & safe. Clean & paint rusty parts, another subject for discussion (not always a final paint job).
Keep everything, don't sell anything, until your finished with the build.
--
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For the time being I would lower the radiator shell and use the proper parts so it looks right. The parts for the shell aren't needed and as you can see which combination would you buy. The front engine mount that the crank is in is the correct style for your years.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 4:14 am

Man thanks so much for the info, I did order the correct mounting supplies, so I will be doing that when it comes in. Ignition stuff I ordered was back ordered of course my luck so I reached out to another vendor to see if the parts were in stock before I ordered from them. Didn’t realize there were so many radiator apron options lol For later, I guess depending on what I wanted it to look like in the front I could go with either the ‘17-‘23 apron or the ‘23-‘25 one? I will also most likely do what you said about a hood less sides when the time comes. I need to also get the title stuff going on it, but I’m not sure entirely what year I need to put on the paperwork or the “Vin” number. I hate to use the engine number for obvious reasons but I can’t find a chassis number. I guess if I end up having to use the engine number I need to put a 1923 model year. So confusing lol

While I await part arrivals, tomorrow I’m going to continue to clean things up…LOTS of texas red dust everywhere but underneath is nice shiny black in the frame etc. I’m gonna pull radiator off and bring to another local shop I found to get leak repaired and see if they can also repair fins and clean. I’ll take the opportunity to see how the block looks and if I can flush it out as well. Give me something to do tomorrow I love tinkering with it. Just something about it is just fun, more so than other cars I’ve owned; maybe it’s the fact I’m making it “mine”. Also it’s been so great just being able to talk to other owners that enjoy Ts!

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Steve Jelf » Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:16 am

The only number you will find is the serial number on the engine. It was nowhere else on the car until December 1925, when they started stamping it on both engine and frame. That's your VIN. With a parts salad like this, I would call the year whatever the frame is. Your firewall is 24-25, so maybe the frame is too. If it is, the handbrake quadrant will tell you which.

Screen shot 2019-06-30 at 8.17.41 PM.jpg
Screen shot 2019-06-30 at 8.18.23 PM.jpg
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:35 am

This is the Official Site of the LA OMV https://expresslane.org/vehicles/title- ... istration/
-- Suggest you use a non-government Title service to avoid any red tape
--
Louisiana Registration Process (not the Official Site so not sure if its true)
Steps in the procedure of requesting LA antique auto tags differs from the standard vehicle registration process. When applying for initial vintage license plates, you are required to send the applicable paperwork by mail to the Specialized Vehicle Unit of LA OMV. The following list outlines the application items you will need to obtain antique license plates:
--An up-to-date color photograph of your motor vehicle
--An affidavit (notarized form) confirming that your vehicle has been restored to its original form with no modifications contrary to stock specifications,
or --------A card (photocopy) proving you are member of an antique car club <--- Subscribe to MTFCA or local club
--Payment for the applicable fees
Use your engine number and engine build date as your car (you can then show the engine reference chart) and don't offer any explanation of part variations or use t he above flow chart (that's for personal use & judging). Likely they are just concerned that it is an antique or a Hot Rod (Bucket T) trying to get cheap plates. Model T identification was/is by engine number and year for Title and registrations only, it is not intended to prove the year it was built since engines could be and often were replaced.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:14 pm

Thanks guys! I’ve talked to DMV headquarters, I gotta furnish a state police statement saying it’s not stolen, show bill of sale, and pay registration fees etc; then after a year I’ll be issued title, just no current ownership has to be in database and I seriously doubt that lol.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:19 pm

So y’all will be proud! I’m off today and got some time to play with it. Verified all 4 coils are good, they all buzz loudly and bright spark when placed in the 1st two coil box spots, second half of the coil box is dead it seems. Removed coil box, think I see problem. Isn’t there supposed to be a second wire on the right? Can’t tell if this is a DIY make up or a kit he had purchased at some point, but it looks rough. I’m gonna take it apart and clean everything well, some of the contacts are bent oddly. I need to find a coil box lid if ima continue this route as humidity is terrible here. Also removed radiator, the motor side doesn’t look all that bad really. The radiator feels like it’s got 20lb of sludge in the bottom of it 😂, I rodded out the petcock and it drained nicely just had to keep at it. Gonna take it to shop today see if it can be repaired; the fins in the middle look like someone threw a spear through it lol.
48749E20-51C3-43EB-ADFE-4DB7E9529C6A.jpeg
3C696A1D-B459-41DF-B0A9-C6B381B4FC25.jpeg
2923CC12-D354-43E1-8E33-CEF0525D4389.jpeg


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:20 pm

More:
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E37E8100-D8B5-4675-8B5A-96D577C06F8C.png
3B9DA1C8-46B4-4979-8E4E-E7261DB55BAC.png


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:26 pm

Well scratch that I see what that wire is for. Ima clean everything up see what happens
C7DD6FB7-D801-4CD1-9682-33E0D13E9974.jpeg
945E89B5-32D8-43AB-BDF6-E3E6303137FC.jpeg

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:59 pm

Your coil box wood is just a repro. To refurbish it take the contacts off carefully, they are shaped like a carriage bolt with the square in the contact.
I don't understand why you say one side is dead, unless the coils where not making contact. That may be a result of not having the support strap
The last issue of repro lids that has spot welded construction did not fit well. Original lids are hard to come by. Wht you need is a way to keep the coils from bouncing up and losing contact y=until you find one
This link will get you to many exploded diagrams of various parts https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/album/5
The ceramic insulators have paper insulators on both ends (clean them but they will look discolored). DON'T replace the contacts just clean them, they are special metal and repros are not the same. Don't bend them either (they are lefts and rights as you can see in the pictures. Once you have dismantled the board, give it a light sanding and you need to seal it with a penetrating sealer (I use MinWax Wood Hardener - really soaks into the wood like a sponge). Other may suggest the repro plastic board but its a cost decision. The rust is just in the head and water inlets and outlets. Don't remove the head unless you are intending to use a non-copper gasket (copper ones have been unavailable for almost a year)
Attachments
strap.png
1919-1925 Coil Box Assembly.jpg
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 1:16 pm

I DID IT!!!!!!!!


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 1:26 pm

Well I took video but can’t share it but I GOT IT RUNNING!!!!!

Man I’m so excited, I did it with everything that was there originally the previous owner had!!

I had radiator off so I only let it run for like 20-30 secs. Had some water vapor coming out of the outlet for radiator when I shut it off. Once I got the coil box back on, and checked all 4 coils buzzing I got giddy. I checked gas tank, looked clean…I was too impatient to clean thoroughly lol

Added just a bit of gas, when I did BOY it started pouring out of the bottom of carb and out front of carb. I guess the previous owner before he passed emptied all gas and drained carb. I turned petcock and it stopped. Sprayed it good with carb cleaner, just out of previous experiences I turned carb too adjustment all the way in and backed off 1 1/2 turn. Sprayed a little starting fluid, and it POPPED OFF!

Then it was pouring out front of carb, so I sprayed more, and turned adjustment screw in and back out 1 1/2 turn a couple times, it stopped.

Got to front and moved timing down just a bit, and turned up throttle a little…IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!!!

I let it run for just a little bit adjusted timing and brought throttle down, it just sat and idled no problem. I turned it off since I didn’t have radiator on it…didn’t wanna chance anything with water pump or overheating. Bringing radiator now to shop I can’t wait to let it run for a bit and clean it out! In the pic it’s a screenshot from video of me going YAY! but you can’t see me 😂
091F8772-47A2-40D5-AC8D-C3B6ADC96FCA.png
392CF3CD-BB1F-462A-B16C-938320679EE5.png

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 1:35 pm

Congratulation on your successes. You are no longer a beginner. Reflect on what you know and learned not to do :lol:
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 2:06 pm

TRDxB2 wrote:
Tue Mar 15, 2022 1:35 pm
Congratulation on your successes. You are no longer a beginner. Reflect on what you know and learned not to do :lol:
DO NOT close your thumb on the crank handle holy shit that hurt. I just wasn’t expecting it to do anything I was just getting it ready and when I got to compression stroke it went CHUG and my hand and arm hit the fender on the driver side. Lol It was worth it :lol:

SO…now I’m saving a bunch of money lol That’ll go to radiator repair, and things that pop up. I still need to run it for a bit on jack stands and work transmission, drain oil make sure everything is clean. I was concerned about the amount of smoke that came out of the water outlet on block I’m hoping that was just heat burning off stuff. I just can’t believe after all those years and what everything looked like it fired right up. This has been a fun adventure my son is gonna flip when he gets home.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by KBurket » Tue Mar 15, 2022 2:55 pm

I read multiple posts and viewed multiple YouTube videos when first learning how to hand start my Model T.
I’m a believer in what Steve Jelf has posted on his dauntless geezer page. https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG101.html
ALWAYS check to ensure your spark lever is in the full up right position then double check.
I’m right handed but taught myself how to always start by pulling up with my left hand with my thumb tucked inside my hand.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 10:09 pm

In a box of parts I was looking through, I found another blue mountable rim. What would I need to mount it as a spare once I get a tire and tube for it?

I also found a bunch of little washers and all kinds of small parts including another brass sediment bowl for a gas tank, the valves he has just wired to hold them in with some springs.

Also a bunch of wood pieces and metal parts. No clue what they are for, windshield or something I’m guessing. I’ll take some pics tomorrow maybe someone will know. Also found a new key for it in the box! Lol

Can’t wait to get radiator back and let it run some more.

Oh in the box too we’re a bunch of new oil cups! There’s a few missing on shackles and whatnot, do you just get a soft hammer and knock them in for a friction fit?

Now to see about lowering it next :lol:


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by DHort » Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:34 pm

I think you have earned an 'Attaboy'.

When and if you work on that coil box again, it looks like the top right and top left pieces were reversed. See how they are not lined up like the bottom ones. All you have to do is switch them.

I would suggest you also learn how to set the timing correctly. We do not want to hear that you broke your wrist or arm. It is pretty easy to do once you know the correct way to do that.

p.s. This is the fuse holder I mentioned earlier.
fuse holder.jpg
fuse holder.jpg (5.35 KiB) Viewed 4441 times
Last edited by DHort on Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:37 pm

Lots of information and ideas in this recent post https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... er#p206651
Also you need to browse this site as it all kinds of information North West Speedster Club https://www.nwvs.org/technical-reference/
--
--
But before you get carried away you need to realize that changing one thing means you need to change something else and then buy something else and then ..... So plan carefully. Also be careful with those beehive Hassler shocks. They are under a lot of tension now. A simple DIY tool is needed to remove/replace them on the axle
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1208891118
NewH3.jpg
--
NewH2.jpg
--
Installation Tool make it.jpg
Attachments
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Mar 16, 2022 12:32 am

I'm not going back and rereading this long discussion. Did we cover how to set timing? If not, here it is: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG97.html
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 7:46 am

Steve Jelf wrote:
Wed Mar 16, 2022 12:32 am
I'm not going back and rereading this long discussion. Did we cover how to set timing? If not, here it is: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG97.html
Haha we didn’t so thanks! I do have the tool that shows #1 TDC. I’ll pull timer off today clean and follow this!


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 8:25 am

TRDxB2 wrote:
Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:37 pm
Lots of information and ideas in this recent post https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... er#p206651
Also you need to browse this site as it all kinds of information North West Speedster Club https://www.nwvs.org/technical-reference/
--
--
But before you get carried away you need to realize that changing one thing means you need to change something else and then buy something else and then ..... So plan carefully. Also be careful with those beehive Hassler shocks. They are under a lot of tension now. A simple DIY tool is needed to remove/replace them on the axle
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1208891118
NewH3.jpg
--
NewH2.jpg
--
Installation Tool make it.jpg
Thanks for the warning. I do have instructions that came with it. I’d like to take them off and clean/lubricate them well, I’ll need to to reverse eye bottom leaf anyways. Idk if I wanna get it really low, I’d like it to look period. I have 26/7 spindles but not sure what I need to do to swap them, I’ll take pics to show; they seem to be in good shape. I’d like to retain my hand crank, perhaps reverse eye front, spindles, and reversing rear will give me enough for now and a slight rake which may look good with my tall firewall and shorter radiator. 🤷‍♂️. Also got figure out light mounting without fenders. I don’t have any lights so I’ll have to find that too 😂. I do have the fender brackets though.

The running boards are in great shape along with the front driver fender and the splash panels. Also got rear fenders and passenger fender. May try to use them as trade material for the other stuff I need.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Mark Nunn » Wed Mar 16, 2022 8:33 am

David noticed the same thing I did about your coil box contacts. They are left and right handed but yours are mixed up. Look at Martynn's drawing that Frank posted. It shows where each contact should be.

In case you have not seen it, there is an awesome gallery of exploded assembly drawings that were done by Martynn Vowell. Clink on "Gallery" next to your login name. Click "VowellArt". Then click on a heading that is of interest to you and you will find a wealth of information on how things go together. Congratulations on you first start.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 8:59 am

Mark Nunn wrote:
Wed Mar 16, 2022 8:33 am
David noticed the same thing I did about your coil box contacts. They are left and right handed but yours are mixed up. Look at Martynn's drawing that Frank posted. It shows where each contact should be.

In case you have not seen it, there is an awesome gallery of exploded assembly drawings that were done by Martynn Vowell. Clink on "Gallery" next to your login name. Click "VowellArt". Then click on a heading that is of interest to you and you will find a wealth of information on how things go together. Congratulations on you first start.
Oh I see what y’all are saying now. I’ll swap them when I go to redo the coil box, with either the waterproof material or sealing the wood. Btw, should I seal the wood on the coils? They seem extremely dry imo.

Oh I did find an original coil box lid in decent shape on fleabay. Picked it up for $40. I’ll evaporust the surface rust off and paint both top and bottom black and it’ll be back in shape.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Mar 16, 2022 10:59 am

I’d like to retain my hand crank...

Maybe you'd like to set it up as Frank Harris did his.

Harris #22 Speedster.jpg
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TXGOAT2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 12:51 pm

If you want a road-legal speedster, better check whether fenders are required or not. I'd want at least two opinions .

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 2:14 pm

Most methods to drop the front axle do not eliminate the hand crank. These are the ones that keep the axle under or behind the front cross member.
Some simple things: Spring height is the first to look at. Not sure what you have. See attached. Reverse eye is about and inch lowering' 26'-27' spindles get about 1/2"-3/4". Removing ONE of the top leaf springs get that thickness (should have good leafs and light weight speedster): wheel diameter.
The more exotic methods re a dropped front axle, Laurel or Limco brackets

A speedster some kind of brackets, a reverse eye spring, and the top leaf removed - together amounts to a 4 1/4" drop. Brackets account for 3", reverse eye - 1", and overload leaf - 1/4". At 4 1/4" of drop the tie rod just clears the pan (by 1/8" inch) with the 1919-up T270B & T282B curved spindle arms. One can gain another 1 1/2" of room for the tie rod by putting the left spindle arm on the right and vise-versa. 26' spindles do not effect the tie rod issues they lower the axle position not the spindle arm
Spindles.jpg
dropped axle.png
dropped axle.png (172.72 KiB) Viewed 4367 times
IMG_1184[1].jpg
LIMACO 1.jpg
laurel 1.jpg
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 2:25 pm

Rear drops are somewhat limited. Spring height, cross member mod, reverse eye, brackets, frame modifications
Attachments
brackets.jpg
drop a.png
image.jpg
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 3:18 pm

Steve Jelf wrote:
Wed Mar 16, 2022 10:59 am
I’d like to retain my hand crank...

Maybe you'd like to set it up as Frank Harris did his.


Harris #22 Speedster.jpg
YES!!


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 3:23 pm

TRDxB2 wrote:
Wed Mar 16, 2022 2:14 pm
Most methods to drop the front axle do not eliminate the hand crank. These are the ones that keep the axle under or behind the front cross member.
Some simple things: Spring height is the first to look at. Not sure what you have. See attached. Reverse eye is about and inch lowering' 26'-27' spindles get about 1/2"-3/4". Removing ONE of the top leaf springs get that thickness (should have good leafs and light weight speedster): wheel diameter.
The more exotic methods re a dropped front axle, Laurel or Limco brackets

A speedster some kind of brackets, a reverse eye spring, and the top leaf removed - together amounts to a 4 1/4" drop. Brackets account for 3", reverse eye - 1", and overload leaf - 1/4". At 4 1/4" of drop the tie rod just clears the pan (by 1/8" inch) with the 1919-up T270B & T282B curved spindle arms. One can gain another 1 1/2" of room for the tie rod by putting the left spindle arm on the right and vise-versa. 26' spindles do not effect the tie rod issues they lower the axle position not the spindle arm
Spindles.jpg
dropped axle.png
IMG_1184[1].jpg
LIMACO 1.jpg
laurel 1.jpg
Hmm, looks expensive lol I’ll take a pic of my springs in the front. Doesn’t seem like spindles are worth it honestly. I guess for now I’ll try to get front spring reverse eyed, and see if I can retain hasslers for the look. The rear I saw on eBay a guy sells those brackets but man cutting the frame with my inexperience makes me nervous. I could reverse eye the rear for now maybe put SLIGHT bends on the ends of it if I need to get a slight rake. Idk seems like I need to find a T person locally. Unfortunately no chapters in LA and I think the closest one is 5-6 hours away. Wish there was some simple bolt on options 😂. I did see someone sold a bracket for the radius rods where you bolt the bracket to the frame and swing out the arms and get them cut and fitted with tie rod ends…like a kit. That wouldn’t be to bad if I had to go that route cause I could bring the parts somewhere.


This MAY open a can of worms; but, what would a period drop be on a “racer” or speedster from 1923?


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 3:24 pm

Not model T related; but today I spent my day off getting the roof sealed…so I’m picking my son up from school in the ‘34 Hudson 😎
CA4AEB8C-4302-4D22-8A83-99066A5A2582.jpeg

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 3:47 pm

I had a Z bracket made for the front from a local Steel outfit (they reduced the fee last minute if I didn't want a receipt -$35. A Z pushes the axle forward and lowers too. Mine has no hole for crank because I'm using the new aluminum pulleys. Hank Lee has a bracket setup (not sure if he still has one for sale) Like mine it lowers 4.5" but he has a provision for a crank - need longer
Th only caution with this method, same to for he other, is to allow clearance for the tie rod hitting the bolts holding the bracket to the cross member.
Mine with Hasslers & 29" spindles but change to pancake style Hasslers
IMG_1099.JPG
grind.jpg
--
--
Hank's
IMG_1565.jpg
Lees Drop.jpg
IMG_1564.jpg
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Guardian1fox2
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 7:50 pm

TRDxB2 wrote:
Wed Mar 16, 2022 3:47 pm
I had a Z bracket made for the front from a local Steel outfit (they reduced the fee last minute if I didn't want a receipt -$35. A Z pushes the axle forward and lowers too. Mine has no hole for crank because I'm using the new aluminum pulleys. Hank Lee has a bracket setup (not sure if he still has one for sale) Like mine it lowers 4.5" but he has a provision for a crank - need longer
Th only caution with this method, same to for he other, is to allow clearance for the tie rod hitting the bolts holding the bracket to the cross member.
Mine with Hasslers & 29" spindles but change to pancake style Hasslers
IMG_1099.JPG
grind.jpg
--
--
Hank's
IMG_1565.jpg
Lees Drop.jpg
IMG_1564.jpg
Wow this is awesome. So I technically could just get one that’s 4” and leave everything stock, make hole for a crank? Then I could couple it with the aluminum Z brackets off eBay for rear and leave rear end stock? If you don’t mind, could I send you a PM? I’ll send you my number if you don’t mind!


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Mar 16, 2022 8:26 pm

539AFAB7-FB09-4B9B-8DCE-9DF08142AB71.jpeg
Well damn, I forgot to get a pan 😂 you run it for 30 sec and it leaks! 😂😂😂

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Thu Mar 17, 2022 1:21 am

Guardian1fox2 wrote:
Wed Mar 16, 2022 7:50 pm
TRDxB2 wrote:
Wed Mar 16, 2022 3:47 pm
I had a Z bracket made for the front from a local Steel outfit (they reduced the fee last minute if I didn't want a receipt -$35. A Z pushes the axle forward and lowers too. Mine has no hole for crank because I'm using the new aluminum pulleys. Hank Lee has a bracket setup (not sure if he still has one for sale) Like mine it lowers 4.5" but he has a provision for a crank - need longer
Th only caution with this method, same to for he other, is to allow clearance for the tie rod hitting the bolts holding the bracket to the cross member.
Mine with Hasslers & 29" spindles but change to pancake style Hasslers
IMG_1099.JPG
grind.jpg
--
--
Hank's
IMG_1565.jpg
Lees Drop.jpg
IMG_1564.jpg
Wow this is awesome. So I technically could just get one that’s 4” and leave everything stock, make hole for a crank? Then I could couple it with the aluminum Z brackets off eBay for rear and leave rear end stock? If you don’t mind, could I send you a PM? I’ll send you my number if you don’t mind!
NO! As I said previously changing one thing leads to another. The Z bracket moves the front axle forward. Now the wishbone can't reach the perches. Soooo you could attempt to fabricate some lateral radius rods instead like on T Bucket Hot Rods .
These are period radius bars -hard to find in any condition
7EB6EA9D-6428-4B92-B6FC-12BCDD259B5B.jpeg
Some DIY there are more ideas on searchinh. Also you need to realize that some drop methods will prevent the use of the Hassslers.
Attachments
bone 2.jpg
bone 2.jpg (36.3 KiB) Viewed 4312 times
Using Wishbone cap.jpg
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Thu Mar 17, 2022 7:58 am

Oh I should’ve been more clear I meant I could bassinet calmly leave axle stock. I know I’ll have to do something with the rods but didn’t realize there were other ways!

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Thu Mar 17, 2022 11:08 am

Not sure if the Beehive Hasslers will work with a reverse eye front spring. Take a look at what you have.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by babychadwick » Sat Mar 19, 2022 10:24 pm

The Z bracket is the welded bracket I mentioned to you about. Cutting the wishbone and adding the A tie rod ends to plates bolted to the frame is the easiest. When dropping 5-6 inches IF running a crank the axle can be VERY close to the crank, close enough to make me nervous with speedbumps.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 21, 2022 4:24 pm

Small update, anything else I’ll just make another thread as this one is LONG and full of info!

Talked to Coil Doctor today, I’ll be sending my coils to him soon. Waiting on radiator to come back from shop; it was a basket case so they gonna see if they can get me by until I find a good one; so if anyone has a good radiator they would like to part with let me know! Prefer a high but will take whatever to get it going.

Talked to Sid with dropped axles, I’m trying to determine what would be the best and least expensive route to go to drop the front, either Z bracket or dropped axle. I can get a Z to move axle out front etc for free from a guy I know at a fab shop, it’s just I’ll have to move wishbones and make crank handle longer. Going back and forth it sounds like that route would be cheaper, however my hasslers will not work as they will hit the frame. Which after looking at them I wonder if I should use them idk if they’ve been greased in a very long time. 🤷‍♂️

Got an original coil box lid in today, and I also got another coil box off eBay that’s in incredible shape I can install a waterproof board for contacts, and also it has ability to use the coil box ignition switch if I wanna go that route for my speedster.

I’m creating a list of things and milestones I’d like to accomplish as I’m incredibly ADHD and I’ll start 5 things and not finish one lol this way I’ll feel like I’m making progress and can document it along the way. Can’t wait to get it moving. I’m so close!

I did find an interesting original race radiator on Instagram but I think ima pass as it has a LOT of soldering and don’t know if it’s even good.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by MichaelPawelek » Mon Mar 21, 2022 5:46 pm

So your son doesn’t get totally disappointed while you are working on the Model T maybe a member of the group close to you could bring over their T and take you and your son for a ride. Is there a club local to you?

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Mon Mar 21, 2022 5:49 pm

Not sure why you feel the Hassler's would hit the frame with a Z bracket. I did say they might not work with a reverse eye regardless of what drop method you use. The Z pushes the spring and axle forward, in front of the radiator.
This shows the position of the axle, not that is a very high Z
High Top 1.jpg
This is stock position of axle. It has a longer crank to clear the V'd radiator (forget the V'd radiator $$$$$$)
81490.jpg
--
--
The drop axle keeps the wishbone and your Hasslers. I'm thinking that the only issue is in fitting your existing spindles into another axle, also perches are usually hard to remove but yours are likely going to be easy since the Hasslers were added (NOTE the Beehive Hasslers need to have had the stock perches swapped side to side such that the boss on top faces front
reverse loop, 26-27 spindles 4-5 in drop.jpg
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 21, 2022 6:20 pm

MichaelPawelek wrote:
Mon Mar 21, 2022 5:46 pm
So your son doesn’t get totally disappointed while you are working on the Model T maybe a member of the group close to you could bring over their T and take you and your son for a ride. Is there a club local to you?
Unfortunately no 🥺. I heard there was another guy local that has a model T but he’s passed away.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon Mar 21, 2022 6:22 pm

TRDxB2 wrote:
Mon Mar 21, 2022 5:49 pm
Not sure why you feel the Hassler's would hit the frame with a Z bracket. I did say they might not work with a reverse eye regardless of what drop method you use. The Z pushes the spring and axle forward, in front of the radiator.
This shows the position of the axle, not that is a very high Z
High Top 1.jpg
This is stock position of axle. It has a longer crank to clear the V'd radiator (forget the V'd radiator $$$$$$)
81490.jpg

--
--
The drop axle keeps the wishbone and your Hasslers. I'm thinking that the only issue is in fitting your existing spindles into another axle, also perches are usually hard to remove but yours are likely going to be easy since the Hasslers were added (NOTE the Beehive Hasslers need to have had the stock perches swapped side to side such that the boss on top faces front
reverse loop, 26-27 spindles 4-5 in drop.jpg
I’ll go take another look but it seemed the base of the BeeHive would hit. In your opinion, you think it would be cheaper and easier to install Z bracket or drop axle? Sid’s said they can either modify mine or exchange cost is the same just needed good threads.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Mon Mar 21, 2022 6:55 pm

Guardian1fox2 wrote:
Mon Mar 21, 2022 6:22 pm
TRDxB2 wrote:
Mon Mar 21, 2022 5:49 pm
Not sure why you feel the Hassler's would hit the frame with a Z bracket. I did say they might not work with a reverse eye regardless of what drop method you use. The Z pushes the spring and axle forward, in front of the radiator.
This shows the position of the axle, not that is a very high Z
High Top 1.jpg
This is stock position of axle. It has a longer crank to clear the V'd radiator (forget the V'd radiator $$$$$$)
81490.jpg

--
--
The drop axle keeps the wishbone and your Hasslers. I'm thinking that the only issue is in fitting your existing spindles into another axle, also perches are usually hard to remove but yours are likely going to be easy since the Hasslers were added (NOTE the Beehive Hasslers need to have had the stock perches swapped side to side such that the boss on top faces front
reverse loop, 26-27 spindles 4-5 in drop.jpg
I’ll go take another look but it seemed the base of the BeeHive would hit. In your opinion, you think it would be cheaper and easier to install Z bracket or drop axle? Sid’s said they can either modify mine or exchange cost is the same just needed good threads.
Lets look at it from two perspectives Cost and Effort
--Drop Axle
There is the cost + shipping of the drop axle. There is a question if your spindles will fit into a new axle or if you need that done as well. I don't see any other expense. But you could offset the spindle by selling the axle with the spindles in them (the price would depend on wear/condition of the bushings). There is effort in tearing down the old axle (removing hubs, and the Hasslers!) and the reinstalling them. Also this is a relatively safe way to go keeping the basic steering configuration etc. Adjusting the axle would follow standard methods. Oh, same crank
--Z Axle
There is the cost of the Z, crank, radius rods, brackets/parts on the frame and axle (cost + shipping), radius rod cost + shipping (shipping could cost long heavy items can be expensive). Not sure of the of your design. The current wishbone would be unused and available for sale if t he end ball is in good condition. The effort requires good engineering and planning. Since the Z pushes the axle forward that effects the tie rod and drag link end the connection to the pit arm (need to keep and eye on that). The radius rods need to be designed to allow adjustment of the axle, not only like stock but left & right. I think would take longer to accomplish than a drop axle
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue Mar 22, 2022 12:23 pm

TRDxB2 wrote:
Mon Mar 21, 2022 6:55 pm
Guardian1fox2 wrote:
Mon Mar 21, 2022 6:22 pm
TRDxB2 wrote:
Mon Mar 21, 2022 5:49 pm
Not sure why you feel the Hassler's would hit the frame with a Z bracket. I did say they might not work with a reverse eye regardless of what drop method you use. The Z pushes the spring and axle forward, in front of the radiator.
This shows the position of the axle, not that is a very high Z
High Top 1.jpg
This is stock position of axle. It has a longer crank to clear the V'd radiator (forget the V'd radiator $$$$$$)
81490.jpg

--
--
The drop axle keeps the wishbone and your Hasslers. I'm thinking that the only issue is in fitting your existing spindles into another axle, also perches are usually hard to remove but yours are likely going to be easy since the Hasslers were added (NOTE the Beehive Hasslers need to have had the stock perches swapped side to side such that the boss on top faces front
reverse loop, 26-27 spindles 4-5 in drop.jpg
I’ll go take another look but it seemed the base of the BeeHive would hit. In your opinion, you think it would be cheaper and easier to install Z bracket or drop axle? Sid’s said they can either modify mine or exchange cost is the same just needed good threads.
Lets look at it from two perspectives Cost and Effort
--Drop Axle
There is the cost + shipping of the drop axle. There is a question if your spindles will fit into a new axle or if you need that done as well. I don't see any other expense. But you could offset the spindle by selling the axle with the spindles in them (the price would depend on wear/condition of the bushings). There is effort in tearing down the old axle (removing hubs, and the Hasslers!) and the reinstalling them. Also this is a relatively safe way to go keeping the basic steering configuration etc. Adjusting the axle would follow standard methods. Oh, same crank
--Z Axle
There is the cost of the Z, crank, radius rods, brackets/parts on the frame and axle (cost + shipping), radius rod cost + shipping (shipping could cost long heavy items can be expensive). Not sure of the of your design. The current wishbone would be unused and available for sale if t he end ball is in good condition. The effort requires good engineering and planning. Since the Z pushes the axle forward that effects the tie rod and drag link end the connection to the pit arm (need to keep and eye on that). The radius rods need to be designed to allow adjustment of the axle, not only like stock but left & right. I think would take longer to accomplish than a drop axle
Well that seems really complicated to someone that has no experience. I thought it was as simple as cutting end of wishbone and getting model A ends welded on to go into bolt on brackets on frame. From that description it sounds like I should go the drop axle route, and just have him drop my axle so I know my spindles will fit…since they fit before. I do have a set of 26/7 spindles but I’m not sure if they’re good they look good.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Mar 22, 2022 12:41 pm

Well I'm glad you have recognized the efforts involved. While there is a good amount of effort either way there is less "engineering" with the drop axle . Sid's mentions adding spindles, not sure if he supplies or what - special tools are required to fit them into an axle. So even if yours are good - its something someone else needs to do for you.
Here are some links to help check out your '26 spindles.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1304971291
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1260725352
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by babychadwick » Wed Mar 23, 2022 9:18 am

I went this way on my build. Provides a very clean drop
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Thu Mar 24, 2022 12:06 am

I’m waiting to get my MTFCA member number, I filled out everything and paid but I never got anything.
Last edited by Guardian1fox2 on Wed Apr 06, 2022 8:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Wed Apr 06, 2022 8:49 pm

The T kinda took the back burner I’ve been so extremely busy with work and family, kids school etc. I got the brass radiator inlet in from a member (thank you!!!!) and I’m waiting on the shop to finish installing it. Told him to take his time, so he’s doing it when he’s finished with other work, and giving me a break on the cost. Got a original coil box lid, and a coil box that I can install a switch on in case I go that route with the speedster. Both are black and in great shape, bottom was redone and painted. A parts account on Instagram found some original head lights, so I picked those up too since they were so cheap. Once I get the radiator back I can finally make some progress running wise and check it out! Just wanted to give an update!

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by TRDxB2 » Thu Apr 07, 2022 12:30 am

babychadwick wrote:
Wed Mar 23, 2022 9:18 am
I went this way on my build. Provides a very clean drop
Where did you get the bolts to fit in the perch holes? Did you make them or have them made?
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Thu Apr 21, 2022 5:15 pm

It took this long to get my radiator repaired although it turns out he didn’t charge me! He got sick while he had it and been out of work, and I just haven’t asked about it or anything. Yesterday he texted I could pick it up today! Looks great and he even tested it pressurized so there should be no problem with it at all. Very excited to finally get it home and back on the car! Finally get it running for more than 30 secs and can move forward! I’ll post pics after while! Used the inlet neck I got from a generous member here, although it had some stress cracks he was able to repair and save it.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Sat Apr 30, 2022 5:43 pm

Installed radiator! Then when I started filling it with antifreeze the lower radiator pipe started looking like a sprinkler I guess cause I removed all the rust 😂. So for now, ima grab a lower hose that’ll just go straight from water pump to outlet on radiator just to get it going. Upper radiator hose was leaking bad to so I’ll grab something temporary for it as well. The petcock was leaking even tho it was closed, so I’ll put a rubber vacuum port cover thing over it until I can replace it lol. Never ends! Inching closer and closer to getting this thing moving…this week it’ll happen.


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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Thu May 05, 2022 3:08 pm

IT LIVES!!!!! I got it running today, for a long time! Even jumped on it without a seat and got around in the yard! I was so excited! I’ll upload a video I took…like a kid in a candy store lol.

Put 3 gallons in radiator; no leaks. Put a rubber cap on petcock since it leaked and it worked good. Carb petcock leaks like a sieve, and I was wondering where all the oil was coming from apparently the oil line to trans cover wasn’t connected…just sitting there lol so installed and tightened that!

When I got it back in shop I opened oil petcocks and drained the oil. No junk, came out easily and looked good. Left it open to drain out for a while and gonna refill when I get back with my son from school. Now….to start cleaning things, adjusting, oiling, greasing etc, and get it ready for the next stage.

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by CudaMan » Thu May 05, 2022 3:59 pm

Congratulations! When you get time, please post a link to the Youtube video like this example. Make sure that the video access is set to "public". :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhH8JSoFb_k
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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Thu May 05, 2022 5:13 pm

CudaMan wrote:
Thu May 05, 2022 3:59 pm
Congratulations! When you get time, please post a link to the Youtube video like this example. Make sure that the video access is set to "public". :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhH8JSoFb_k
Let me know if this link works. I use my channel to just post random stuff I work on etc over the years. Some of my Edison Phonograph collection and jukeboxes are on there too…my first love lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=eZwyIQViO4U

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Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by CudaMan » Thu May 05, 2022 5:35 pm

Yes, the link works, great video! :)
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Scott_Conger
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Scott_Conger » Thu May 05, 2022 5:45 pm

reverse sounds normal...sometimes low sounds similarly, too...though yours sounds a bit quieter than reverse

good for you

you can hold down the points of each coil to find which cylinder is misfiring, and then move coil to new location to see if the mis-fire follows it (or not)
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


Topic author
Guardian1fox2
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2022 9:55 pm
First Name: Jacob
Last Name: Fox
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Speedster (in progress)
Location: Lake Charles, LA.
MTFCA Number: 52087

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Fri May 06, 2022 3:21 pm

Well before I do anymore with the coils etc, since I know it runs, should I rebuild carb? Or leave alone? I do need to change the petcock which surprisingly stopped leaking which I’m sure is just the bowl empty although tank has gas in it.

Saw the petcocks for radiators and carbs in the classifieds, but nervous about trying to remove radiator one since a rubber cover works perfectly and I’m not potentially damaging radiator lol.

I picked up 2 T headlights off of Instagram, look to be “Barn find” originals. Rings were a little stuck so sprayed some Kroil, pushed on both sides (10 and 2) and it rotated like brand new. Turns out it was dirt and dead bugs that was stuck in there. Still got the cord bulb! 😂
643033B7-6FFF-419D-8DD0-2B0867B3E2AE.jpeg
DFA241A2-B82F-4C1B-B3BE-B0DB5B4DEB05.jpeg


Scott_Conger
Posts: 6430
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Scott_Conger » Fri May 06, 2022 3:45 pm

My March 6 advice is still valid
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


speedytinc
Posts: 3840
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
First Name: john
Last Name: karvaly
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
Location: orange, ca
MTFCA Number: 14383
Board Member Since: 2020

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by speedytinc » Fri May 06, 2022 5:35 pm

Guardian1fox2 wrote:
Fri May 06, 2022 3:21 pm
Well before I do anymore with the coils etc, since I know it runs, should I rebuild carb? Or leave alone? I do need to change the petcock which surprisingly stopped leaking which I’m sure is just the bowl empty although tank has gas in it.

Saw the petcocks for radiators and carbs in the classifieds, but nervous about trying to remove radiator one since a rubber cover works perfectly and I’m not potentially damaging radiator lol.

I picked up 2 T headlights off of Instagram, look to be “Barn find” originals. Rings were a little stuck so sprayed some Kroil, pushed on both sides (10 and 2) and it rotated like brand new. Turns out it was dirt and dead bugs that was stuck in there. Still got the cord bulb! 😂

643033B7-6FFF-419D-8DD0-2B0867B3E2AE.jpegDFA241A2-B82F-4C1B-B3BE-B0DB5B4DEB05.jpeg
Run it, drive it. If the carb is causing poor performance or leaking, deal with it then. If you think you can rebuild it, do your home work. There is more work to a well restored carb than most folks are aware of.

User avatar

A Whiteman
Posts: 992
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:36 pm
First Name: Adrian
Last Name: Whiteman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 TT, 1924 Colonial Roadster, 1924 'Bullnose' Morris, 1925 'Bullnose' Morris, 1936 JD AR
Location: South Island, New Zealand

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by A Whiteman » Fri May 06, 2022 6:04 pm

There is more work to a well restored carb than most folks are aware of.
But it is still doable by taking care and not rushing.


speedytinc
Posts: 3840
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
First Name: john
Last Name: karvaly
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
Location: orange, ca
MTFCA Number: 14383
Board Member Since: 2020

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by speedytinc » Fri May 06, 2022 7:03 pm

A Whiteman wrote:
Fri May 06, 2022 6:04 pm
There is more work to a well restored carb than most folks are aware of.
But it is still doable by taking care and not rushing.
You need a knowledge base. This can come from available literature on the subject. The best manuals still fall short. Lots of research.
Take tips from those that reside here & past posts.

Will you recognize a badly worn throttle shaft or body? How do you address it? How do you get a stuck jett out? Will you buy the ONE correct needle/seat available, modify one yourself of stick yourself with a poorly performing rebuilt unit? Do you know how to fine tune the fuel level for perfection from idle to hi speed running? etc.

User avatar

A Whiteman
Posts: 992
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:36 pm
First Name: Adrian
Last Name: Whiteman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 TT, 1924 Colonial Roadster, 1924 'Bullnose' Morris, 1925 'Bullnose' Morris, 1936 JD AR
Location: South Island, New Zealand

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by A Whiteman » Fri May 06, 2022 7:12 pm

I am an accountant, I am not an engineer, I have done it (with assistance/advice from other T club members).
Did not say it was simple or 'easy', just doable.
As John points out, there are some good articles and information on the topic available.


Topic author
Guardian1fox2
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2022 9:55 pm
First Name: Jacob
Last Name: Fox
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Speedster (in progress)
Location: Lake Charles, LA.
MTFCA Number: 52087

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Fri May 06, 2022 8:33 pm

Yeah I rather just pay $150 or whatever it is for a rebuilt one from vendor and send mine in as core lol I just rebuilt an Autolite 1100 for a 6 cylinder but that was pretty straight forward…although I have yet to run it since I’m still needing to swap engines in the mustang lol


Topic author
Guardian1fox2
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2022 9:55 pm
First Name: Jacob
Last Name: Fox
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Speedster (in progress)
Location: Lake Charles, LA.
MTFCA Number: 52087

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon May 16, 2022 8:17 am

Got a new rebuilt carb coming, bunch of parts, just a lot of stuff I needed, new pipe, hoses etc. Finally getting to knock some stuff out. Replaced the ignition switch back plate…started it up and magneto works! Couldn’t get it to before cause the switch was so bad.

Ran it for a while other day, longest I ran it yet. I removed gas tank and started basically staging things where I’m most comfortable. Started removing the closed car cowl and almost got heat exhaustion…got nauseated, sick…so I called it quits…then I’ve been working.

Got carb off to ship off as a core, muffler was about to fall off so went ahead and removed. I want to do a lake style header and found multiple posts etc on people on here that have done them. I got the u bend pipe, and cone, but I have a question. I was searching the forum and found basically what seemed like an engineered drawing of a Model T intake/header plate dimensions…and now I can’t find it. I wanted to grab some 1/2” bar steel, and have it drilled for the intake and exhaust holes, and then have the exhaust tubing welded to it. Then for now I was going to mount my intake and carb (stock setup) using half clamp ears, similar to what I found in this pic. Does anyone have a picture and measurements of the plate?

I also saw the ModelT to A adaptor plate, and while that would be easy, I want to use my T intake and carb. I’m sure the T intake will not fit to the adaptor plate huh?

Just got a tool in to safely remove the hasslers on the front, gonna remove them and clean them up and fit the missing oil cups.


Topic author
Guardian1fox2
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2022 9:55 pm
First Name: Jacob
Last Name: Fox
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Speedster (in progress)
Location: Lake Charles, LA.
MTFCA Number: 52087

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon May 16, 2022 8:18 am

A2511C6D-BDFB-4039-8B32-2C593AD2F968.jpeg

Forgot to add this pic.


Topic author
Guardian1fox2
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2022 9:55 pm
First Name: Jacob
Last Name: Fox
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Speedster (in progress)
Location: Lake Charles, LA.
MTFCA Number: 52087

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Mon May 16, 2022 12:03 pm

Ah found it! I believe this is the correct measurements for the model T header/intake plate. I’m gonna weld my exhaust together to this, and mount intake like pic above. Curious if I need to have some kind of indention machines into the intake ports so I can fit gasket. Not sure how others like pic above accomplished that, or if so how deep of groove to get cut into it.
E176BBB1-193B-4880-9737-D7CB4A926950.jpeg


I did change it to the 2.5” like the poster had suggested, here is also with center updated:
4CE1C457-F1B0-4723-BD9F-EFCE390FEE12.jpeg


Topic author
Guardian1fox2
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2022 9:55 pm
First Name: Jacob
Last Name: Fox
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Speedster (in progress)
Location: Lake Charles, LA.
MTFCA Number: 52087

Re: New Member and Owner..Some Questions!

Post by Guardian1fox2 » Tue May 17, 2022 6:57 pm

Found this interesting. Removed the lenses from the 2 headlights I got from a barn find sale. After washing them they’re purple, felt it would be cool to share. Neat.
B15034A2-A729-4C73-8D91-4A5D82625AC4.jpeg

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