MTFCA Forum

Someone has suggested that I lubricate just the bottom end 4 inches of each leaf and not the entire length. The reason being that lubricating the entire bottom of each leaf would make the spring too flexible.

The leafs have been primed, and I intend to paint them black before assembling the spring.

Comments would be appreciated.

I did both sides and the whole length of the rear spring on my Model A last year and it has become a lot more sensitive although it is starting to settle. That advice might hold water. One thing I would not do is use grease or oil as lubrication as it attracts dirt. The exception being if you have a spring cover. I would use SLIP plate. Works like a charm.

The factory used graphite flakes in a thinned black paint and each leaf covered the full length. Surviving leafs pulled apart will still retain some of that dry sheen.

Modern graphite paint like Slip paint and Easy Glide is a good substitute for such a dry lubricant .

I did my rear springs last year with slip plate. Just took apart the front and did those. Definitely a improvement in overall ride.

You won't make your springs too flexible unless you apply heat to them with a torch. The dry lube paint suggested is a good idea. You can also apply things like motorcycle chain lube, used motor oil, grease, flake graphite, and so forth. To be effective, any lube needs to be placed bwtween the leaves. Any non-dry lube will attract road dirt make cleaning the springs with a pressure washer necessary from time to time. Lubrication will not hurt springs and will improve ride and handling and help protect the car from road shock. Dirt collected on springs is not beneficial. Neither is the inter-leaf rust that will accumulate on dry springs. Dry springs with no lubrication can become very stiff and make the car ride very hard. For many years, Ford cars had the springs wrapped in flexible, felt lined sheet metal jackets ("gaiters")with grease fittings. You can buy custom- made spring gaiters today for any car with leaf springs. They'd make an excellent, if non-original, addition to any Model T that is road driven. ( not cheap) It is especially beneficial to lubricate the outboard portions of the springs, but lubricating the entire spring is beneficial.

I use engine oil, and that works his way between the springs when driving . Toon

There are many discussions on this subject: I'd say the recommended way is to use brush SLIP-Plate, EZ-Slide or similar product especially since you have them apart. Painting is done after assembly http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/607785.html
Later on ...

One of the suppliers have what they call "Graphite Spring Paint (Also called Slip-Paint)", described as graphite dry film lubricate at $39.95 a quart. Another supplier has what they call "Leaf Spring Paint", described as a black graphite alkyd based lubricating paint. It lists for $18.95 a quart.

Is the second one a dry film material?

Which is the better lubricate?


























pain

This is what I use and they'll ship it https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/1 ... gL8lPD_BwE

"Graphite Spring Paint (Also called Slip-Paint)", described as graphite dry film lubricate at $39.95 call "Leaf Spring Paint", described as a black graphite alkyd based lubricating paint. It lists for $18.95 a quart.
Which is the better lubricate?”



Either should do the job nicely, or you can make your own. Did that years ago, messy but worked! Thinned black enamel and stirred in graphite powder from a tube labeled for key lock cylinders.