Trying to get finished.

Discuss all things Model T related.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules

Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Fri Apr 15, 2022 10:03 pm

Came to Calif. to finish paint work on two cars. One is very close to done and the other is in the tear down stage from fit up. When I built the touring I wanted to paint it red, so I bought the paint, thinner and hardner at that time. 20yrs ago. Paint is all still good, but I decided I wanted a Green car. So I priced materials and decided maybe Green wasn’t such a good choice. As the Red is paid for and the Green is not, Red it is. I’ll send a few pics as progress moves along.
B0A4D051-8AF0-41CC-890B-16424C5304AF.jpeg
35E67BA5-B995-494F-B325-CD38800A5CB5.jpeg
9F67D9D0-D515-4668-A55B-25ADD36EC90E.jpeg


Luxford
Posts: 215
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2019 6:30 pm
First Name: Peter
Last Name: Kable
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Town Car 1913 Speedster 1915 kampcar
Location: Australia
MTFCA Number: 4
MTFCA Life Member: YES

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Luxford » Sat Apr 16, 2022 2:42 am

Tom,
20 years is a really long time for a paint with a hardener to last.
Please don't attempt to paint the car until you have sprayed a separate panel from start to finish.
All the paints around 20 years ago only had a shelf life of 2/3 years max. as they could possibly have already been on the shelf before that.
I would contact the paint manufacturer before you start to check what they say. An internet search quotes 2 years only for polyurethane 2 part paints


pron022020
Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2021 1:43 pm
First Name: Tyler
Last Name: Prondzinski
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Coupe
Location: Spring Grove, Illinois
Board Member Since: 2021

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by pron022020 » Sat Apr 16, 2022 6:16 am

Depends what kind of paint you are using. Lacquer, enamel, or urethane?

User avatar

KWTownsend
Posts: 1122
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:51 pm
First Name: Keith
Last Name: Townsend
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: late 1911 touring, 1915 runabout, 1919 touring, brass speedster
Location: Gresham, Orygun
MTFCA Number: 14778
MTFCA Life Member: YES
MTFCI Number: 16305
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by KWTownsend » Sat Apr 16, 2022 7:09 am

Nice work, Tom. "09 or '10?


TXGOAT2
Posts: 6411
Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:08 pm
First Name: Pat
Last Name: McNallen
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926-7 roadster
Location: Graham, Texas
MTFCA Number: 51486
Board Member Since: 2021

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:47 am

I would not risk using paint that old on a job like that.


John Codman
Posts: 1182
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:27 am
First Name: John
Last Name: Codman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Youring
Location: Naples, FL 34120

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by John Codman » Sat Apr 16, 2022 10:04 am

I would join those who are concerned about the old paint. I would proceed with extreme caution. Paint is the least expensive part of a paint job.

User avatar

Rich Eagle
Posts: 6796
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:51 am
First Name: Richard
Last Name: Eagle
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 TR 1914 TR 1915 Rd 1920 Spdstr 1922 Coupe 1925 Tudor
Location: Idaho Falls, ID
MTFCA Number: 1219
Contact:

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Rich Eagle » Sat Apr 16, 2022 1:07 pm

I'm sure you will figure out what is best. I used Tractor paint when I did mine. It was $20 a gallon and is $46.08 now. I'm happy with it for what my car is. I'm sure yours deserves a better paint.
Best wishes for it.
Rich
When did I do that?


Rich P. Bingham
Posts: 1377
Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2022 11:24 am
First Name: Rich
Last Name: Bingham
Location: Blackfoot, Idaho
Board Member Since: 2015

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Rich P. Bingham » Sat Apr 16, 2022 2:08 pm

Another plus for that tractor paint, it can be 20 years old in the can and still usable ! :D

As for catalyzed paints, consult the manufacturer. If components have not changed in consistency (they'll sometimes look like snot) they may be OK to use. The new generation catalyzed finishes are quite expensive I'm told.
Get a horse !


Joe Bell
Posts: 1053
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2019 1:20 pm
First Name: Joe
Last Name: Bell
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 24 Fordor
Location: Tiffin Ohio
MTFCI Number: 24066

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Joe Bell » Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:04 pm

I have had some setting that long also and have used it recently, the only thing was the hardener i did not trust.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:27 pm

O.K., This car I painted 4 yrs ago with paint that we used to paint the bottom of Model A running boards. Then EPA made us stop in 1987
4B8404CD-3466-4B9F-A693-313963372CC1.jpeg
and I was left with 20 gallons of Nason commercial grade black acrylic enamel. Pretty much bottom of the quality ladder. I have two black cars now and have painted a handful of others using up this paint to the point that I have 3 gallons now. That paint is 35 yrs. old now. I used generic thinner and a wet look additive. For paint that is over 30, I’m pretty damn happy with it.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat Apr 16, 2022 8:40 pm

Back to the touring. Body up on roller and we move towards prep work. First I treat all the raw wood with a lacquer sanding sealer. It’s old too. The kind they used to use on school floors. Unobtanium. I brush the parts that are exposed to exterior paint work. The inside wood and bottom side wood I’ll paint by hand after all the spray work is done on the exterior. If you don’t seal the wood where you spray, the wood will suck and suck the paint in. Not good to put layer upon layer of paint on wood.
D398015E-E983-43DE-90CE-0BCDBB17907C.jpeg
CFE94042-ED13-430C-A435-627607582612.jpeg
51D34F60-D19C-4237-B450-9B62C14E4A2E.jpeg
3928AF3A-7453-476C-9B3F-4F7F99D6C48B.jpeg
And don’t forget to do the seat overhangs.

User avatar

david_dewey
Posts: 521
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:42 pm
First Name: David
Last Name: Dewey
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 touring, 1925 runaboaut, 1926 Tudor
Location: Oroville, CA
MTFCI Number: 19936
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by david_dewey » Sat Apr 16, 2022 9:17 pm

I would mix a small batch and paint something (unimportant something) with it to see if it dries and sprays well. If it passes that test, then ON WITH THE PAINTING!
T'ake care,
David Dewey


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Tue Apr 19, 2022 7:57 pm

Today was a job that I hate. Masking. Just tedious, detailed, time consuming. A general pain in the butt. But necessary. Because the body and the hood are aluminum, you must use a etching primer to get paint to stick. And remember this car has been sitting in bare metal for 20 yrs. So first is washed it down with a lacquer thinner, then I wash it down with a degreaser. And then tack it down to pick up little crud you can’t see before you prime it.
3E7BB102-2259-41D3-AF37-375E325AB7A2.jpeg
2A30A250-3CBB-4062-B83B-6D6BE0544FFC.jpeg
I looked at the date on the two part primer and it said 2011. These are unopened cans, so even though their old, the paint looks good when opened. If they had been opened before, they could easily be cottage cheese or worse by now. So tomorrow first thing I need to shoot everything with a filler primer or I won’t get a good bond between the two primers.
81C24D3D-B413-4200-B52C-BB2C3C50DEE6.jpeg
Then I go to work on the chassis.
977E28F7-0342-4598-B2A1-980D70FF83D0.jpeg


Stephen1915
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2021 12:14 pm
First Name: Stephen
Last Name: Noll
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 Coupelet
Location: Arnold, Missouri
Board Member Since: 2021

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Stephen1915 » Tue Apr 19, 2022 9:07 pm

Thanks for sharing this with us, love seeing the progress of one of my favorite year model T’s


Aussie16
Posts: 208
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 9:24 pm
First Name: Warwick
Last Name: Landy
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 LHD USA Touring 1916 RHD Canadian Touring 1916 Pickup
Location: Trarlagon Victoria Australia

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Aussie16 » Wed Apr 20, 2022 6:25 am

Good choice of staying with red. Here's a couple of pictures of a nice red 1910 for you. The body on this car is an identical aluminium touring body probably built by the same Rootlieb craftsman that built yours. This car got a new coat of paint for the Cen"T"enary Tour in 2008 in Echuca, Victoria Australia. 2 Pak red enamel. One of my favourite T pictures ever, with me at the wheel, my Dad beside me and my 2 sons in the back seat.
Attachments
1910 2.JPG
1910.JPG

User avatar

JTT3
Posts: 1350
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:57 am
First Name: John
Last Name: Tannehill
Location: Hot Coffee, MS
MTFCA Number: 49460

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by JTT3 » Wed Apr 20, 2022 6:54 pm

Tom is that the same T you brought to Chickasha bacteria a decade or so? Sure looks good.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:04 pm

Yes John I’m sure it’s the same one, and it was probably TWO decades ago. So today I got all the aluminum work and wood that is painted into fill primer. So it will sit in the warm California sun and cure for a few days.
3C029202-3606-490E-A901-47BF4F9508AE.jpeg
9CB15B44-16CA-4C22-92D3-36A6069EB2D4.jpeg
Also got the frame with fenders up on horses so I can do a little more fit work before the sheet metal comes off.
1138BA0D-7554-449B-84BD-59741E206D42.jpeg
Tomorrow I’ll mask off the tires and seal up the wood so they can head to primer.
673888DC-F499-4CD5-AF08-7D36DF36381F.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed Apr 20, 2022 9:07 pm

And when there’s nothing to do, I keep sanding on the wood work getting some of it ready for paint and some ready for stain.
2730BD68-1BB0-4ADC-9D7A-72C9216FA86F.jpeg


Art Ebeling
Posts: 408
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:43 am
First Name: Art
Last Name: Ebeling
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 touring 14 runabout
Location: Hillsboro IL
MTFCA Number: 50718

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Art Ebeling » Thu Apr 21, 2022 7:00 am

Tom, I am curious as to how you masked off the already tacked down upholstery. Did you remove the tacks and peel the upholstery back or are you priming/painting up to the installed upholstery. I'm asking because I would like to redo the back panel on my 11 Touring that has the interior finished. My car was painted when I got it but it looks like someone pushed on the back panel and created waves. Art


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat Apr 23, 2022 11:03 pm

I wasn’t happy with the splash apron fit,so I made some to fit the car. Put me behind a day, but in the end I think I will be happier.
1E98DCAB-2780-429E-B27A-425204226726.jpeg
Then I decided to change to a different radiator, which fit fine, but I wasn’t happy with the fit of the headlight forks, so I heated and bent them until I got the headlights where I was happy with them.
617511F4-3D8D-43C7-AD3C-60BFE8A1D1E3.jpeg
. Then I took all the sheet metal next door for a little acid bath (which I will show next week), and then the frame finally made it to the paint booth for some filler primer.
51237A31-FAF5-423F-84C0-56D71F25870F.jpeg
F1B22C83-E65E-467F-A103-996BE77C9562.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat Apr 23, 2022 11:19 pm

In answer to Arts question, no I did not remove the hide em strip. Usually I paint before upholstery. But in the situation where it’s already got upholstery, I mask it similar to how I mask of tires to paint wheels. I position the tap so it over laps what you are going to paint just enough so you can take a screw driver, butter knife etc. and push the tape into the gap.Experiment till you find what works for you. Sometimes the paint will fill the gap, so after it sets, but before it’s hard I push the upholstery back and with an exact knife, I cut the paint so when you pull the tape, you don’t wind up pulling the paint with it.
29216555-3A1E-4B7E-BE2C-F4F40133A11C.jpeg
9A289F77-FEF2-4CAC-BAAD-4A455AD838A4.jpeg
Got all the tires masked off, up on the horses and all the spokes sealed. Hopefully tomorrow I can get them into fill primer.
31E90E5C-CA2F-43BF-B9C3-4374DE6F0043.jpeg


otrcman
Posts: 364
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:25 pm
First Name: Dick
Last Name: Fischer
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Touring
Location: Arroyo Grande, CA

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by otrcman » Sun Apr 24, 2022 12:39 am

Tom,

Your pics showing ready-to-paint wheels look great. I do have one question, however: Do you seal the spokes under the hubs or will the wood remain bare in those areas ?

Below is (I hope) an attached picture of one of my rear wheels with the hub removed. To the best of my knowledge, no work has been done on these wheels since they left the factory in 1912. My father bought the car in 1961, so I know that no wheel restoration has been done since that time. The car was repainted in 1960, but as far as I know that's all the "freshening up" that has been done over the years.

As you can see, the ends of the spokes have no black paint, but the wood has some sort of a slick, almost waxy appearance where covered by the hub. The finish looks sort of like linseed oil to me. Then the black paint was applied after the hub was installed.

Dick
radius-in-spokesA.jpg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sun Apr 24, 2022 11:15 pm

Dick, I don’t seal under the hubs. It certainly wouldn’t hurt if you did. My thinking is when these cars were new, they were a tool that was going to be used hard and abused to no end in all kinds of weather and left with no concern for longevity. Today we take just the opposite approach. We wouldn’t dream of letting our little princess be abused in any way shape or fashion. I’ve never had a new wheels finish go south, for not treating under the hub. Just my 2 cents. Today I got the wheels into primer.
2BEA6FC2-6B9D-449F-AB97-3EC19115B6E0.jpeg
Along with a string of other little parts.
6AD0083E-62CB-40E8-9795-26A891A7F190.jpeg
But mostly spent hours sanding the wood work on the body, eliminating the grain using 80 grit to the point that the ends of my finger tips are raw and a couple bled.
4AACE4EA-8394-4A61-845A-B925B365839A.jpeg
On a different note, I finally got a new air actuator for the clutch on our 300 ton press. If we can get it to operate correctly tomorrow then I have to make running boards. That will put the kabosh on the touring for a bit. We will see.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Tue Apr 26, 2022 9:02 pm

We did get the press running, so running boards are my propriety, but I was able to work in some touring time. As you can see the sheet metal developed some surface rust thru the years of sitting unprotected.
E65BDF37-41C6-4700-96BF-2B39F3CDB00E.jpeg
8135B37E-6B33-4DF9-A201-B67D16CC7D56.jpeg
I use a gal. of Metal Prep to treat four fenders, two aprons and two boards. Using a 3” paint brush I coat the bad side first and turn it over and do the good (cleaner) side. Using a scotch brute pad and gloves I dip the pad in to prep and then scrub the entire surface. Clean side goes pretty quick. Flipping it over I attack the rustier side. Takes more work but you can see the rust being removed. When I’m happy with the removal, I turn on the hose and using water I scrub down the part again removing any residue left behind. Be sure to wash out all the seams, folds and joints as water nutrealizes the acid, so be sure all prep is washed clean.
7DB918A3-2CC4-4553-80EB-A0B85BA91629.jpeg
B000EC19-FA30-4353-97CA-DED88B9E81C5.jpeg
Then with compressed air I blow the water out of the seams folds ect. while using a rag to wipe the part dry.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Tue Apr 26, 2022 9:06 pm

Then they go in the sun until the moisture in evaporated from the seams.
A3565CFD-312E-42E3-82A9-2D7CC55F9DC5.jpeg
Now they go into the booth for some etching primer. These are turning into really long days.


sweet23
Posts: 481
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:19 pm
First Name: Darryl
Last Name: Bobzin
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2, '25 T Runabouts, '14 Touring
Location: Kannapolis,NC
MTFCA Number: 27211
Board Member Since: 2016

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by sweet23 » Tue Apr 26, 2022 9:39 pm

Tom, what did you seal the wood on the wheels with ? The same lacquer you used on the body ? Darryl


Allan
Posts: 5201
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
First Name: Allan
Last Name: Bennett
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
Location: Gawler, Australia

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Allan » Wed Apr 27, 2022 2:12 am

All my painting is done in the open either in my workshop or on the apron under the verandah. This means I use acrylic lacquer, for it's forgiving nature if I need to re-do any insect inclusions/dust/runs etc. Besides which, lacquer does not give the un-natural plastic gloss finish of two pack stuff.
Which leads to painting wood. Acrylic primers and paints do not respond well to the expansion/contraction of wood. On bare timber I seal with two or three coats of Penetrol. This same product also aids adhesion of top coats. Those topcoats are oil based enamels, which can even be thinned with Penetrol to aid and even out coverage.

Others do it differently.
Allan from down under.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:13 am

Darryl, yes i used the same lacquer as on the body, only because i like it and it dries fast. However, I have used McClosky (i think that's the name) non sanding sealer before and had good results. Probably whatever you have locally will work fine. As long as it seals.

Allan, I agree that your lacquer finish is true to the original finish more than the acrylic enamel that I use. They were lacquer painted originally, so it stands to reason. They probably looked enamel like for the first week and then they started to develop the sheen that lacquer has if you don't polish it. A lot of the paint I have used is no longer available in California, so you work with what you have. You cannot buy Lacquer paint or thinner here. People will say you can get it at Home Depot, but don't try painting with it. Its only for cleaning purposes. I started painting when i was 10. My father had a body shop. I'm now 73. Shot a lot of different types of paint. I prefer the acrylic enamels because of ease of use. I'm not concerned with correctness, as this is not a correct car. If I was in your situation I would do exactly as you are. Because it works best for the reasons you stated. I have never used Penetrol, so I am not familiar with it.I decided to do this little story just to share how I have learned to do finish work for two different reasons. First, that it may help someone who is unsure of the process. And again, this is how I do it. Doesn't mean you have to follow this method as I'm sure Ford Motor Co. does things much differently that Allan and myself. Second, this is probably the last car I will paint as I am giving up my shop with a booth in it.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed Apr 27, 2022 11:15 am

The big press is calling my name, so time to go to work.

User avatar

Rich Eagle
Posts: 6796
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:51 am
First Name: Richard
Last Name: Eagle
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 TR 1914 TR 1915 Rd 1920 Spdstr 1922 Coupe 1925 Tudor
Location: Idaho Falls, ID
MTFCA Number: 1219
Contact:

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Rich Eagle » Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:02 pm

Wonderful photographs. It takes me back to fun I have had.
Thanks so much.
Rich
When did I do that?


Allan
Posts: 5201
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
First Name: Allan
Last Name: Bennett
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
Location: Gawler, Australia

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Allan » Wed Apr 27, 2022 7:46 pm

Tom, I understand the restrictions you face in California. Were not some of those behind Rootlieb's decision to cease painting the panels they produce?
We are fortunate to still be able to use lacquer here in South Australia. I am 76 now, and the last car I am building has a wooden commercial body, so it will get oil based enamel.
I mentioned the way I do it as an introduction to the different preparation and finishes for timber which the poster was asking about re painting wood.

I have a lasting memory of my visit to your shop in Turlock in 1989. It centres around the splash panels, for A models I believe. They were made made deliberately with more curvature than needed, Then the worker laid them on the floor, place a wooed plank on them, and literally walked the plank, relaxing the curvature. Fascinating stuff!

Allan from down under.


KBurket
Posts: 120
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 1:17 pm
First Name: K
Last Name: Burket
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 RPU
Location: Seattle,Wa
MTFCA Number: 49752
MTFCA Life Member: YES
Board Member Since: 2017

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by KBurket » Thu Apr 28, 2022 4:38 pm

Thank you for taking the time to document your progress.
I have a wood frame that I want to treat/paint before moving it to an out building. This discussion helps me make a plan.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Thu Apr 28, 2022 8:50 pm

Allan, we still make those aprons the same way to achieve the correct curve.

Kevin, if it’s a body skeleton just be sure it is supported level. Better yet use the chassis frame under it. The wood will move on it’s own. Ask me how I know. Had to disassemble skeleton and make corrections to get it to sit right.

Here’s what been getting in my way of fun with the touring. These are 26-27 boards with one more operation to go.
0E3BD9D2-F1C8-4A22-BBC4-6501FCFFC706.jpeg
And these are complete with double script and center diamond row.
0C2C96B4-16C4-4892-8AF9-3CBB39FC5522.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Thu Apr 28, 2022 8:58 pm

A little filler on the wood work. This bondo that comes in small squeeze pack(looks like kids juice packs) works really well, but it sets really fast, so you have to learn to use just a little hardner or you don’t even make it to the body. Needs a little more in a couple places and when it’s sanded out I will reseal the raw wood spots and prime it again.
2A380895-2067-4E23-827C-7A5C2CA43A0E.jpeg
E049A9F4-1BE7-4B41-8E68-119AB64BAB2C.jpeg
D06A7277-57BA-440F-8CEC-13982F1BA490.jpeg
231CEC7D-99B4-4E0A-9961-BF8088A6A666.jpeg
Then I will rehang the doors to make sure they still fit and don’t drag.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:01 pm

Boy my fingers are toast. I hate wearing gloves cause I just can’t feel things.
19AE79B5-206D-43D8-8E56-CBB16B9FE529.jpeg
2BC2B718-D398-4A85-A83C-8A60C218B1CD.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat Apr 30, 2022 5:00 pm

Resealed and reprimed.
83100C69-D9FF-4130-ABB0-C5C39451D23A.jpeg
B9427C86-3243-44D5-B87C-A82BFE763D8D.jpeg
Will start to wet sand in a few days and finally start heading towards paint.


All the lower sheet metal in etch primer. It’s all new so no need for fill primer on these.
2DEEEBB0-FB77-4982-9517-917D62CFEF2D.jpeg


Lots of little pieces waiting their turn.
8AC762A9-9BE6-4CAC-915E-88A674F4F941.jpeg


sweet23
Posts: 481
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:19 pm
First Name: Darryl
Last Name: Bobzin
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2, '25 T Runabouts, '14 Touring
Location: Kannapolis,NC
MTFCA Number: 27211
Board Member Since: 2016

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by sweet23 » Sat Apr 30, 2022 9:11 pm

Thanks for posting photos of your progress with painting your T


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sun May 01, 2022 7:15 pm

In my quest to use what’s in the cupboard I found two stains, on the left-Red Mahogany. Next to it-Cherry.
FACBFAE2-6460-4E38-9A00-94DE5C9FB7F5.jpeg
I didn’t care for either so I emptied my McDonald cup and put some Cherry in and added Mahogany (3rd going right). Still no so I added more Mahogany. Far right- that will work.


So I got the dash and coil box stained.
D7EAEF2B-713B-42BE-B0AA-C6E3DF3BAEEE.jpeg

And sealed.
384A6434-8E7D-4CE6-B570-C60108495CF3.jpeg

And the rear doors rehung to check fit-good.
B3537989-38D4-4CDC-8F77-5FDB0EB29169.jpeg
1C92BE7B-AFE2-472B-93A7-EA282DDC5C72.jpeg
And the two front wheels wet sanded.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed May 04, 2022 4:24 pm

I only have 9 qts. of paint. If it had a black chassis I would say no problem. But a car that is red on all sides, every piece, top and bottom and inside and out, I have my doubts. Even though the paint mixes at a 8 to 6 to 10% ratio I think it will be thin or flat run out. This is paint that is no longer produced so I can’t order it. To start over with a new system and learn how to spray it is not something I’m willing to do time or money wise. So in the back of the cupboard I found 2 gals. of a darker red. So I painted the wheels with the darker red thinking I would use this as a base and go over them in a week with the lighter red.
3AEFBABE-9130-49BD-BB52-7134549675DF.jpeg
CF2F4F51-A817-41E3-BAF2-ECB59C6F32D3.jpeg
This shows the difference in the two reds. The bright is a little to bright and the dark is a little to dark for me.
06000296-07A0-4E0D-8CD6-4D103768721D.jpeg
So today I decided to mix them together starting with a small sample and while the color is still a little darker than what I would say is on your usual 1909 Ford this car is for me to haul my granddaughters around to get ice cream and so forth. And I like the color in the sun. So that saved me $2500.
B0F116A6-9EE7-4B8C-ADF0-E9FE7332E594.jpeg
and I also got the dash and coil box into first round of clear.


pete eastwood
Posts: 173
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 6:17 pm
First Name: Pete
Last Name: Eastwood
Location: Southern Califiornia
MTFCA Number: 52632

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by pete eastwood » Wed May 04, 2022 5:55 pm

Tom, I prefer the darker color you have mixed up.
My Dad matched the original paint on his '09 & it's a darker red than what we see on most '09 restorations.


Wayne Sheldon
Posts: 3638
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
First Name: Wayne
Last Name: Sheldon
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
Location: Grass Valley California, USA
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Wayne Sheldon » Wed May 04, 2022 6:58 pm

I agree! I prefer the shade darker myself.
I would not want it any much darker however.

It is really tough to tell what original colors were like. Some colors fade to lighter shades? Some paints (especially a lot of era shellac based paints) can age darker regardless of exposure to the sun.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Thu May 05, 2022 7:44 pm

Frame is hanging in the booth but just to windy to paint. So spent the day prepping small pieces and front end parts for paint.
D7F076E4-0230-4444-B013-DF949D6645A0.jpeg
Engine is a ‘27 that was built 10 yrs. ago and put together so pieces and screws didn’t get lost. I need to partially disassemble it for cosmetics and prep to drop it in the frame. Also discovered one rear end housing needed machine work so disassembled it and off to the doctor it went.
E67A9B39-388A-4DAA-A6D1-5542F127E230.jpeg

User avatar

KWTownsend
Posts: 1122
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:51 pm
First Name: Keith
Last Name: Townsend
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: late 1911 touring, 1915 runabout, 1919 touring, brass speedster
Location: Gresham, Orygun
MTFCA Number: 14778
MTFCA Life Member: YES
MTFCI Number: 16305
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by KWTownsend » Fri May 06, 2022 10:22 am

I like both colors, but by mixing them, you get the best of both worlds!

: ^ )


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat May 07, 2022 7:48 pm

Keith, I agree with you 100%. It was a roll of the dice that payed off. I’m happy with it. So far anyway. So how does an old guy get that frame hanging from the ceiling by himself without screwing it up.
E2DDEE49-0F3B-489F-A350-DB61839D564B.jpeg
Same way I take it down
07F7224E-047E-4748-8DAA-06E9828D5604.jpeg
With some help from my roll around work table
5E2C34DD-830D-4510-87DB-BD77D0CEE7E3.jpeg
I never did this till I got older and smarter. And it makes working on the frame easier on your back.
C4C7B2C2-D46B-44D7-A30E-03662542271F.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat May 07, 2022 7:57 pm

So in goes more parts to become red.
1654C5F7-E38B-412A-B876-948ED9C944F0.jpeg
And more
856EBD52-7CD1-4AFD-84D7-D87A2DA35ED8.jpeg
8613ABFC-32E5-4F66-AA90-778894947EFD.jpeg
21803B15-5204-4BF3-895B-4FA6360FE968.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat May 07, 2022 7:58 pm

And more.
8B692A3F-CA36-4644-ACBE-93B0C3BE9D40.jpeg
8F411E98-9071-4A32-BECF-F160499DE338.jpeg
56020434-B124-41F9-8130-630B20A98060.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed May 11, 2022 8:08 pm

When you build a car for display you skip a lot of things or figure you will get to them later. Such is the case of the rear axle here. You work with what you have initially enough to get by. Poor housings to start with didn’t help. So I bought a better pair some time a go. Thought I would use the guts out of the first one but when I opened it up, broken ring gear and babbit thrust washers. So I needed to start over. Went thru 7 axles on the lathe before I had two good ones. If you go thru all this and the wheels don’t run true- what’s the point. So quick trip to Dave’s Sandblasting
AB11EA07-5CE1-40CE-B110-A609EC4523ED.jpeg
along with a few other pieces.

So with all good pieces I fit the pumpkin and axles into the left half and dropped the right over to check the thrust washer spacing. Pulled it apart, resized the thrust washers till I was happy and then pulled it all apart again. You will see that someone at some time in the past decided it would be a good idea to braze the inside to stop the leaks.
D92B1FC1-72B1-4F89-A470-AE51DA6AACFF.jpeg
C69A2FDC-4751-493B-907F-EA10CA39CCF9.jpeg
I don’t know if it worked, but I have had good luck using gas tank sealer for this job. So here they are. I paint them with a radiator brush. Cheap-Amazon 8oz, enough to do 5 rear ends.
8DF6919A-24CF-4CB0-BCB2-9581F241E739.jpeg
093D477B-99EF-4E76-826E-C02FD265D473.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed May 11, 2022 8:29 pm

As long as I was at it I did the 11-12 housings.
2242FC2A-1201-419F-BF20-4E6C65144746.jpeg
As long as the front end was painted I thought I would go ahead and assemble it. It is a great feeling when at last, after weeks and weeks of effort, something is starting to come together that shows effort. It’s exciting. I had replaced the wishbone when I took the front end apart because it was in poor shape and I had found a really nice one. So I reamed out the spring shackle holes because they fill up with paint and everything fit perfect. Spindles went right on. Spring mounted super. Tie rod would not mount. Spindle arms to low.
E62E5BF7-87EC-4EA7-AD34-B458562C03C1.jpeg
277DE58B-C12E-4886-A17C-6694A6E71610.jpeg
I never thought to check the fit by changing the wishbone. But in looking at the old one it has a sway bend downward and the front end was assembled from parts here and there. So of came the spindles and the arms got heated and rebent upward to gain clearance. Of course it ruined the paint and I had to start that process over. Needless to say my excitement quickly vanished.
2422ED4D-53AB-42E9-A173-5F493180870B.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Wed May 11, 2022 8:32 pm

Body is ready for final wet sand and gets painted black. Waiting for the wind to die down and temperature to go up just a little.
A0D8875E-2C8D-4FDC-A06E-A5880AA42B57.jpeg


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sat May 14, 2022 9:23 pm

Drain plug in rear axle galled. Whited scale on front corner of radiator. Sent both out to be fixed. Sanding sanding sanding painting painting painting. I’m sick of it. Still haven’t got to the body yet. Sanded wheels with 800 and shot fronts yesterday, shoot rears tomorrow. With the constant 20-35 mph. winds since I have been here it mean I can only paint between 3-6 a.m. when they die down. Has made progress hard. And wet sanding in that wind sucks. But it’s off the tables and on the ground, so I guess we are making progress.
594FAFA6-4385-47BD-9245-A8BC8CC8459D.jpeg


Wayne Sheldon
Posts: 3638
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
First Name: Wayne
Last Name: Sheldon
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
Location: Grass Valley California, USA
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Wayne Sheldon » Sun May 15, 2022 1:43 am

Progress is good!


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sun May 15, 2022 11:25 am

Thanks Wayne, I needed that. Don't mean to complain just realize that I am behind where I hoped I would be. Have to go back to Ohio after this week, just wish I was further along. If I can get black color on everything before I leave, I will be happy.

User avatar

perry kete
Posts: 1563
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:46 am
First Name: Dennis
Last Name: Seth
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1922 Coupe 1927 Touring
Location: Jefferson Ohio

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by perry kete » Sun May 15, 2022 11:27 am

Tom,

I think it looks great! and you can't even see the brush strokes :roll: :lol:
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring


ModelT46
Posts: 1459
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:35 pm
First Name: Darel
Last Name: Leipold
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 touring
Location: Excelsior MN
MTFCA Number: 823
MTFCI Number: 953
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by ModelT46 » Sun May 15, 2022 4:40 pm

With the rest of this Model T either correct 1909-10 parts of correct reproductions, why use a starter engine? The body is new as are the brass items, but done up right. You have built up a "driver" by using a later engine. You can drive (and Start) a non starter engine. Even a "look-a -like" open valve would go nicely with this great T. What it is that when you show the car, people will ask to see the engine. A open value engine would look great in this beautiful T.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Sun May 15, 2022 7:10 pm

Perry, the wonderful thing about tech is that what you see isn’t always so. I love photoshop because it makes me a much better painter than I am. It’s amazing how it can erase those brush strokes even when I drop the brush IN the paint!
And Daryl, I saw a 09 engine for 20k. That pretty much answers the question for me. This is one of those doing it for me cars. I wanted it mostly correct and at the time I started this project (1986) the parts were more affordable than today. I always knew I would use a later engine for reliability and if it blows up- next! If I started this project today, I wouldn’t. I would just buy one. The rear wheels got painted and the front end is complete and now on to other pieces while I wait for the rear axle to come back from fixing the drain hole.
A59C94A1-51A8-41EF-AA03-EF379FB87F95.jpeg
585228C9-CE45-4ADF-B208-2078E06D581F.jpeg
0295E13E-0D44-441F-B800-1826E69CFF25.jpeg


Wayne Sheldon
Posts: 3638
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
First Name: Wayne
Last Name: Sheldon
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
Location: Grass Valley California, USA
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Wayne Sheldon » Mon May 16, 2022 2:46 am

Don't forget to photoshop those unpainted castle nuts!
Looking good!

What about an old modified later block turned open valve? I don't know if something might have been seriously wrong with it or not? I don't remember who had it listed for sale recently, but I thought the price was very fair for what it was? It was discussed both in General Discussion and For Sale threads. I know it didn't sell in a week or two, but that was a couple weeks ago?


ThreePedalTapDancer
Posts: 1419
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2019 2:29 pm
First Name: Ed
Last Name: Martin
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Touring, 1909 Touring
Location: Idaho

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by ThreePedalTapDancer » Mon May 16, 2022 10:27 am

Wayne Sheldon wrote:
Mon May 16, 2022 2:46 am
Don't forget to photoshop those unpainted castle nuts!
Looking good!

What about an old modified later block turned open valve? I don't know if something might have been seriously wrong with it or not? I don't remember who had it listed for sale recently, but I thought the price was very fair for what it was? It was discussed both in General Discussion and For Sale threads. I know it didn't sell in a week or two, but that was a couple weeks ago?

Here it is

https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... ve#p220334


Wayne Sheldon
Posts: 3638
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
First Name: Wayne
Last Name: Sheldon
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
Location: Grass Valley California, USA
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Wayne Sheldon » Mon May 16, 2022 7:24 pm

Thank you TPTD!
I haven't heard if it has sold or not? But I would be surprised if it hasn't? The last good open valve modified block I saw for sale was about three times that price! Another at twice this one a couple years ago sold quickly. It is a lot of work to do one reasonably well. If I had the money to spare, I would have considered this one myself. But I already have too many projects and the likelihood of me needing an open valve block is very slim.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Tue May 17, 2022 6:33 pm

I’m thinking Darth Vader
683D8B89-FD42-4A14-88A0-44DE65A204BE.jpeg
9A16C736-9A03-4E92-BE17-4CDEF3DB5C92.jpeg
FC3DD1CA-0E79-4CAE-8740-5E34E4991847.jpeg


otrcman
Posts: 364
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:25 pm
First Name: Dick
Last Name: Fischer
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Touring
Location: Arroyo Grande, CA

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by otrcman » Tue May 17, 2022 6:56 pm

Tom,

You must be feeling pretty good right now. I hate taping and papering, but I love to peel it off after the paint is done and the guns cleaned up. (And have verifed that there have been no masking leaks.)

Dick

User avatar

perry kete
Posts: 1563
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:46 am
First Name: Dennis
Last Name: Seth
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1922 Coupe 1927 Touring
Location: Jefferson Ohio

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by perry kete » Tue May 17, 2022 7:30 pm

That is beautiful ...I'm glad you followed my step-by-step instructions :? :?
1922 Coupe & 1927 Touring


Wayne Sheldon
Posts: 3638
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:13 pm
First Name: Wayne
Last Name: Sheldon
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Runabout 1913 Speedster
Location: Grass Valley California, USA
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Wayne Sheldon » Tue May 17, 2022 9:02 pm

SWEET!


Okay, SWEET!-6-7-8-9


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Thu May 19, 2022 7:51 pm

Painted tops of fenders. Steering column, rim, engine pieces and so forth.
1A3BC0BD-7DED-4476-BFA3-72C288472899.jpeg
85B55719-5D7F-48A8-8567-DFCCC1A1FCEC.jpeg
5C7E10CA-1425-425D-AD49-1A9803773480.jpeg
Tomorrow I’ll paint the hood and sills. And I believe with the exception of the spare carrier, that is the end of black paint work.


Topic author
Dollisdad
Posts: 2778
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:13 pm
First Name: Tom
Last Name: Rootlieb
Location: Ohio
MTFCA Number: 440

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Dollisdad » Fri May 20, 2022 8:15 pm

Hood and sills are black.
2D8D8232-5DC5-43D8-9BF3-31A445AD7560.jpeg
300D4327-A714-4960-86CC-05BEEB9D4D69.jpeg
So everything that is black, is black. Now it will have time to cure, as I must turn my sights towards returning to Ohio. We started this little adventure on Friday April 15th. It is now Friday May 20th. I’m happy with the progress made in a month and 5 days. I am hoping to return in July to pickup where I left off and get Model A running boards made. So, I’ll see you when the party starts next time.

User avatar

Rich Eagle
Posts: 6796
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:51 am
First Name: Richard
Last Name: Eagle
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 TR 1914 TR 1915 Rd 1920 Spdstr 1922 Coupe 1925 Tudor
Location: Idaho Falls, ID
MTFCA Number: 1219
Contact:

Re: Trying to get finished.

Post by Rich Eagle » Fri May 20, 2022 8:43 pm

I am so enjoying watching all of this without having to do any of the work.
Thanks so much.
Rich
When did I do that?

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic