MTFCA Forum

I am about to install my new (!) gas generator on the running board of my 1914 Touring. There are no holes in the running board so there have never been a generator after its restauration some maybe 20 years ago.
So I need a meassure from the front edge of the running board to the body of the generator. Support eventually your response with how you meassure the distance.

Thank you in advance. Picture for attention

I will assume you have a generator with a "four hole" base plate (see below),
if you do:

Beginning about June 1912, Ford began using the two front running board support holes for the front two bolts on the acetylene generator.
They are spaced 5" apart and match the two holes on the four hole generators used.
You already have those two holes in the running boards you have mounted.

Just set the generator holes over those two and the two rear holes will be located for you.
They will be 5-1/4" down the running board and spaced the same as the front.

Also, when you mount the generator, orient the gas outlet toward the splash shield.
The 1/2" gas hose hole is in the center of the "flat" area of the splash shield next to the running board in line with the two front running
board holes you already have.

I’m not aware of any published location dimensions for Gas Generators. When fitting one on my 1910 I looked at many, many original photos and come to the conclusion that they were all on the Drivers side of the vehicle and appeared to be in the centre of the running board. The gas line hole in the valance was also a guess based in the same set of photos.
Alan In Western Australia

Read the data above. Your problem is this. Your running boards are not original for your car. A number of people assume all running boards from 1913-1925 are the same, which is incorrect. The only thing that is the same is the Ford script runs the same direction. Running boards were changed at least three times from 1913 to 1925. If you would do your research you would find this out. Additionally, a 13-14 running board has the carbide tank holes drilled on the left and right sides. If you care to research this data, you will see the design of the Ford script changed at least three time during this period of time. The other change is the running board to fender holes changed around 1920 from 1/4" to 5/16. The carbide tank front bolts are longer to accommodate the added thickness required to attach the tank to the running board brace. Randall Anderson made these special bolts. Don Lang has all Randall's bolts now.

Michael, that is a nice looking car. Isn't it a shame that you're being told to "do your research" from Denmark? And a greater shame that the guy who likely knows the answer to your question, will not provide that answer? In all of 20 years in the hobby, I have never seen in the Forum or elsewhere, the answer to your question, so I do not even know where to tell you to look, short of flying to America and looking up the prints in the Benson Library for yourself, since our esteemed colleague is apparently keeping that info to himself.

Like you, I suspect my '13 has had it's running boards replaced and thus I do not know for sure if my generator is in the right place or I'd provide the answer for you.

Good luck with your project...surely someone who knows the answer to your question will actually answer it without bragging that they know, and then promptly disappear.

Every time I read that someone should "do your research!", it sickens me and kills just a little bit more of my interest in the hobby.

Michael, attached photo of a page from the 7th Edition MTFCI Restoration Guide and Judging Guidelines. Page 2 of the 1914 section regarding the acetylene generator.

How do you learn about anything if you don't research the subject?

Here you go, Michael
see the picture regarding holes/location as posted on http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1421797605 1/20/15 1:10

A huge thankyou to Mike Walker for the post of the correct running board! Most restored examples have been changed. As I mentioned above, compare the Ford script to that on a later example, and you will see the difference. If your running board has been changed, as mentioned above, simply place your generator above the running board holes, and that will locate the rear holes for you. If your right hand running board is original to the car, it will be as the example that Mike posted.

Michael D,

In Mike Walkers photo of factory punched running boards noted above, I have put
a red dot on the splash shield where the 1/2" gas hose hole was punched beginning
about June of 1912 and probably to the end of factory acetylene gas headlamp use.

It is in the center of the "flat space" adjacent to the running board and in
line with the two gas generator mounting holes punched in the original running boards.

The second photo is from under the splash shield and shows the 1/8" smooth
rim factory punch on a July 1913 car. The smooth rim protects the hose.

Well I do have a dream of getting to the Benson Ford archives, but that is merely to research what happend in Copenhagen up to WWII.

Thank you for the info - I have no idea if the running boards are the right ones, but the rest of the car is to the best of my ability and knowledge pretty original with correct 1914 parts. Yeah, you may look closely on the picture above (which is also found in the Langs 2022 calendar) that the front axle is alater and more safe version, but I have the right axle on the shelf.

Generator is now on it's way to be mounted.....
Runningboard bolts removed: and test mount for marking up for drilling the extra holes. (And before you asks - yes it is a brand new reproduction generator - claimed to be the last of the batch made for the 2009 NYC - Seattle tour where apparently sufficient wanted it made to allow for a small production. Ironically it was claimed also to be made in Sweden of all places! So now both US customs and danish/EU customs have gained on this transaction) Picture from eBay ad.

this is a July 13

Final position. Now to the tube hole and there have been good advice above and in another thread.

Michael,

Very nice Victor style generator and looks great!
Do you know if it is functional?

Ken

If it is functional I would encourage you to line the bottom tank with Red Kote (fuel tank sealer) and let it dry until it doesn’t have an odor. I also line the water tank but there is a process you need to follow so you don’t plug the drip Orifice. I do this to prevent corrosion of the metal from water & carbide residue. The beauty of red Kote is it is easy to remove by using acetone if you should ever have to. Red Kote will dry hard, I’ve used it to line early Porsche fuel tanks for years. The cost to replace them with new reproduction tanks is just cost prohibitive for folks, yes Porsche folks are cheap, ha.

Drkbp wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:36 am

Very nice Victor style generator and looks great!

Thanks - it's a brand new reproduction.

Drkbp wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:36 am

Do you know if it is functional?

I expect it to be. I havent tried it yet. It came with an instruction sheet.

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 28, 2022 10:28 am

If it is functional I would encourage you to line the bottom tank with Red Kote (fuel tank sealer) and let it dry until it doesn’t have an odor.

That is probably a good advise, but as everytime we Europeans gets an advice to use "something" the challenge MAY be to find it over here OR buy it in the US and hope it may be imported into the EU.

But I get the point of controlling corrosion. I have seen the interior of old generators. Not a pretty sight.

I hear a good way to go is to line the base with a plastic bag.
Makes clean up of the corrosive left overs easy.

Michael now is a good time to do it when it is new so you won’t have issues for the rest of your life. you can find the Red Kote on eBay for cheap as $15 for a quart can which is more than enough to do your generator. then have them ship it to you if they ship internationally.