MTFCA Forum

just had a valve job done by a well respected mechanic on my 1917 engine. Crank is in car and complete valve train but I have not yet installed the pistons. When engine is turned over valve train is making a clicking sound. Mechanic suggests running engine and maybe it will go away. That does not appeal to me. Any suggestions appreciated. All new parts were used for job using the present cam.

six things that could do that is a 280 cam just barely binding on tappets that don't quite clear the block or a little excess cam/crank gear lash that is allowing the cam to "jump" when the toe of the cam passes across the tappet and the spring pushes down, advancing the cam gear (but that would be an awful lot of lash, for sure). I suppose that a little excess valve/tappet lash and dry tappets could let tappets drop onto the cam, but I'd be surprised if they were installed dry...then maybe a late model cam in an early front bearing that should have an end-float kit installed, connecting rod nut or cotter pin just nicking the cam (but pistons/rods not installed yet) and finally I'd check the oil line to be sure it isn't somehow fouling on a lobe.

the periodicity of the ticking will be a major clue to rule out most options and point to only 1 or two.

I only do my own engine work and thus am limited in experience, but those are all things that I can think of. I am with you...I'd want to understand what it is before running it

I can only guess from here, not being able to hear the sound or see what conditions it occurs under. You might check the timing gears for any evidence of foreign material or burrs on the gear teeth. Be sure the camshaft is not contacting the crankshaft. If you are cranking the engine by hand with the starting crank, be sure that the crank, ratchet, retaining pins, crank pulley, or spring is not causing the sound. If the flywheel and magneto are in place, check carefully for any evidence of loose parts or any possible interference between moving parts. If the timer is in place, check it carefully for any possible issue.

If the valve are a bit tight or not lubed, when the cam lobe turns past and lifter drops down, there could be a little delay in the valve coming down, making a clicking noise when they do.

Cams will "go over center" twice per revolution, often times making a slight clicking noise. I don't think you have anything to be concerned with.

Don H. All Model T's do that , it is the Camshaft go's over center as Dan Mc Eachern 's reaction .
Toon

Aug 28, 2011, Glen Chaffin wrote an excellent article on setting the valves on a Model T in witch he used Ford guidelines of valve clearance of ( the thickness of a thin dime)—.022-.028 thousandth’s. Stating that the crankshaft gear has 24 teeth and the camshaft gear has 48 teeth, the cam turners 1 revelation for every 2 crankshaft turners. At this clearance you will probably hear valve chatter.

If you had a valve job done and you didn’t replace the gears and they have any noticeable backlash, that noise is normal. Backlash is most easily detectable with no valve springs installed. It will sound different when running, possibly only noisy at certain speeds or accelerating/decelerating.

You say the pistons are not yet in. I presume that the head is off and there is no oil in the crankcase. You will hear more noise with the engine open and no lubrication. It will likely sound fine after you complete the installation and get the engine running. I hope you have a head gasket! I am waiting for one so I can fix a problem with one of mine.
Norm

DonH wrote: ↑

Wed May 18, 2022 9:24 pm

just had a valve job done by a well respected mechanic on my 1917 engine. Crank is in car and complete valve train but I have not yet installed the pistons. When engine is turned over valve train is making a clicking sound. Mechanic suggests running engine and maybe it will go away. That does not appeal to me. Any suggestions appreciated. All new parts were used for job using the present cam.

Is this a well respected "model T mechanic"? A typical mechanic has no clue to model T intricacies & wont read the book. Check the gear clearances. Depending on what the cam gear is made of will determine proper gear lash. A quality bronze gear has only .004" clearance. The original iron gears had less. Check this clearance @ 4 places. The tightest or loosest & 3 equal quarters. Wouldnt be the first crank gear that was a bit off center. A stipe 280 magnifies the noise with its higher lift & increased spring tension.
This is a hell I have gone thru. Myself, I dont mind a little gear noise, others go ape over the extra noise.

Had a new cam gear do that changed the gear and was fine. Do not know who made the offending gear.
Craig.

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Thu May 19, 2022 2:58 pm

Had a new cam gear do that changed the gear and was fine. Do not know who made the offending gear.
Craig.

I have seen this on several cam gears. It had not come to mind that this would happen with a crank gear also. It wasnt until I installed the top quality cam gear, I trust, to figure it was the crank gear.

Thank you all for your comments suggestions. Now I will do some serious work at looking for the solution. Don