MTFCA Forum

I need to replace the bushing at the front of the oil pan that the starting crank goes through. What is the best and easiest way to remove the old bushing? The bushing is probably frozen into the pan.
Thank you in advance, Craig

Skinny hack saw blade. Cut a groove and then chisel it out. Or use a torch if ur good at it.
Install new one with threaded rod and good heavy nuts. Good luck. You're in for a treat!

BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE CRANK BUSHING!!!

Remember your high dollar radiator is just inches above it!

Your tools or a whack with a hammer or just giving your torch a careless swipe on the radiator
can ruin your day and especially you pocket book.

Just a reminder! Don’t laugh it could easily happen.

Once you get it out, I would suggest it is replaced with a bronze bushing. Drawing it in with a threaded rod is the least damaging way ti fit it,BUT be aware that the hole in the snout is much less than a precision piece of machining. You may well have to machine something off the OD of the bush.

Then there's the wear on the crank handle. I fix them by cutting off the worn section and replacing it with some 3/4" rolled steel shafting. Deep vee each end of the two pieces and fill the void with weld. Be sure to orient the crank dog pin hole in the same way as your handle was, or you will have the handle engaging the crankshaft pin in less than optimal position for hand cranking.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Thank you everyone. The pan is off the engine so that makes it easer to get to. Craig

The old steel bushing on my 1915 was a wonder to behold.

Luckily I had a pneumatic hacksaw to split it and facilitate chisling out the carcass.

If you press in the new bushing with all thread you don't have to worry about accidentally bashing your radiator with a BFH.

After the new bushing is pressed in it may need reaming with a ¾" reamer for the crank to fit.

I prefer bronze bushings. I bevel the ends and grease the hole to help them in. If you shop online and order bushings by size, this may help:

Front perch bushings(#3820) are ⁹⁄₁₆" ID and ¹¹⁄₁₆" OD, 1½" long.
Rear perch bushings (#3844) are ⁹⁄₁₆" ID and ¾" OD, 2" long.
Hand crank bushings (#3909) are OD 1", ID ¾", 2⅝" long,
Spindle arm bushings (#2714) are OD ¹¹⁄₁₆", and ID ⁹⁄₁₆", 1" long.
Parking brake cam bushings(#2559*) are 1⅛" long, OD ¹¹⁄₁₆", and ID ½".

*1909-1925.

If you go with a replacement steel bushing, you will need to turn the O/D down to get it in with out damaging the pan. The steel bushings are way oversized on the O/D. Press in or use the threaded rod trick. NO BFH.

Steve your old bushing you removed looks like it was originally bashed in. Am I looking at it right? Maybe the guys at Ford used a BFH?

Interesting experiences.
On two of my cars that I have replaced the crank bushing, the OD of the new steel bushings must have been slightly undersized. I had found that the bushing would over time move forward to the point that the starting crank ratchet would not engage, then I'd have to use a drift and tap it back into place. Both times I ended up taking the new bushing back out, giving it a Dutch knurl using a center punch, and putting it back together with some JB weld. So far they are holding up ok.
-Keith

: ^ )

Make sure you support the front of the pan while driving it out, so you don't crack the pan. If you have it in the frame, bolted down, that's ok. I've used the hack saw method, and that works good.

Steve.
Thanks for the bushing info, I have not seen a pneumatic saw like that in 30 years do they still make it?
Craig.

Harbour freight has them. Some like their stuff others don’t but the tools were OK for the price. https://www.harborfreight.com/high-spee ... 91753.html

John kuehn wrote: ↑

Fri May 20, 2022 2:05 pm

Harbour freight has them. Some like their stuff others don’t but the tools were OK for the price. https://www.harborfreight.com/high-spee ... 91753.html

I have this unit. It doesnt work very well. The least pressure stops the blade. not effective.
I have used a hacksaw & sawsall.
I actually prefer carefully installing a new bushing with the pan still mounted in the frame. No chance of bending something. The key, though is to not force a too small bushing with a BFH.

...your old bushing you removed looks like it was originally bashed in.

I don't know if it was bashed or mashed, but it sure was skinned. Here's another view.

Steve's original bushing is interesting. Clearly the bushings were fitted before the snout was added to the pan during manufacture. The experience of others having bushes of too small and too large OD's indicates that things were a bit hit and miss with those split steel bushes. On a couple I have replaced, the snout hole was undersized too, and I had to machine the bronze bush down on the OD.

Allan from down under.

John I have two of the harbor freight air saws but it is a PITA to get a hack saw blade to fit and they don't do very well usually I use saber saw blades if I need a longer blade. And yes some people don't like HB you have to be careful what you buy from them. I have purchased tools from them starting in 1977 contrary to popular belief they are a family owned company in California. I still have many of the tools that i purchased in 1977.
Hope this doesn't go off the rails!
Craig.

I wonder if an "oil-lite" bushing would be strong enough for this application. Craig

an oillite bushing in that location would be a real mistake

they're excellent when used as intended, but for loose fits and cross-axis loading, because they are a sintered material, they will be prone to fracture/failure

a replacement rolled steel bush or a cast bronze bush would be appropriate here

The crank bushing installation at the Ford factory reminds me of how Ford did the brazing job on the engine pans. Any body when first working on rebuilding a T engine takes a second look at the way the brass was applied at the factory. When I first took a T engine apart and cleaned it over 50 years ago I thought it was brazed to repair some loose pieces. Live and learn. There are pics of the brazing done with a blow torch but haven’t seen any of the front crank bushing being pressed, slammed, or etc to get it to fit. Now that would be interesting.