MTFCA Forum

I am ready to start the body work on my 1916 Touring, there is a lot of surface rust on the inside and out. I would like to remove this support for the back seat so I can get at the rust better. Does it come out? Know of any videos?

The rear fender irons are attached to the sides of the seat frame by three bolts each.
If I remember the rear sheet metal panel may be tacked underneath to the wood cross piece.
You will have to crawl under to look closely and see. If it is the seat frame may be to in some way attached underneath to it also. Look closely in the inside for any other screws or tacks that are securing it the the sills.

Some body makers may be slightly different than others in this era from one another so be prepared to find this out. They weren’t all exactly alike in the details.
Others will give more information I’m sure.

Sheet metal looks to be in great shape with just superficial rust. I’d mix up a 50/50 water and Ospho and brush it on. Then it can be spray painted after drying. Removing 106 year old wood from 106 year old wood wouldn’t portend a result as structurally sound as it is now....

I agree with George that if the wood and structure is still sound use air to blow out all the dirt and etc and use a brush on rust preventer. Then brush or spray the inside completely. Sometimes doing less in some area than more is better in the long run.

I am going to go the other direction and say go the 3xtra mile. If you are restoring the car, do it right and remove as much of the rust as possible (sandblasting is the best). I am not a fan of rust converters or preventers. Professional shops that restore lots of cars don't use it for a reason.

I have used both of the Rustoleum products recently. The GEL product is useful for large items - says to keep the product moist when applying it, so I applied and covered with plastic wrap. The REFORMER works well on parts with a dust of rust on them and as a primer. The painted parts look like the have a black oxide finish. You might just try to wire brush some loose stuff off the panel and spray some REFORMER on it and then decide what needs to be take apart

I would sand that surface rust off down to the bare metal, vacuum the rust dust out, clean with lacquer thinner and prime with red oxide primer. Jim Patrick

PS. Sandblasting has been known to distort and deform the metal panels.

Sandblasting is risky on big flat panels. Down low next to the folded under edge may be OK. I too am in the remove rather than convert rust party.

Being a woodworker, I would remove the seat support. Then,you can replace any suspect pieces. New wood will bring new life to the structure, will hold screws better, and will flex as needed.

Allan from down under.

Like many things, sandblasting requires someone who knows what they are doing. It is quite simple actually and most of the horror stories come from shops that don't do a lot of sheet metal work or by people who just picked up the nozzle and have no idea. Pressure is what causes the warping, not heat. Keep moving and you will be fine.

Ospho and scotch-brite pads after the wood is out. Several go-rounds and every pit will be clean down to the parent metal. Used according to the label and the metal will remain rust-free for months in humid Florida, or years in dry environment like Wyoming. I've done it in both places and now, years later are still very pleased with how it holds up whether it's just bare or after painting. Now, if you are one of the folks who know better than the manufacturer as to how it is supposed to be used, then results may be unfavorable, though I have found it a difficult product to misuse. I have fenders which were treated thusly and after significant handling for "ding" removal, and welding to replace rotted metal, 2 years later does not even show hand prints though it is still bare steel. I hope to get those particular parts to the painter this year.

Personally, I view the rust in the photo to be merely surface rust and if that is correct, this treatment is ideal for it.