Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
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Topic author - Posts: 442
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Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
I am picking my 1922 up in a couple of days and taking it to the port to be shipped to Alaska. I need to get as free a neutral on the handbrake as possible so the shippers can move it (they will not drive it). The car has Rocky Mountain brakes and the the transmission brake does not really need to work during shipping. I can readjust things when I pick it up to make it drivable.
I have the ford manual with instructions on how to adjust things so the car runs well and I have read the instructions on line. But this is a bit different. Any advice on how to get an idiot-proof free neutral on the handbrake would be appreciated.
I have the ford manual with instructions on how to adjust things so the car runs well and I have read the instructions on line. But this is a bit different. Any advice on how to get an idiot-proof free neutral on the handbrake would be appreciated.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Couldn’t you post a note stating to move the brake lever the whole way forward and to then pull it back and watch the left peddle. When that peddle moves forward slightly, that’s neutral. Than pull the whole way back for the parking brake.
Kbillet
Kbillet
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Maybe try elongating the adjustable linkage between the high speed bell crank and the clutch pedal. You'd be removing all of the clutch pedal "free play", and then some, thereby keeping pressure off of the high speed clutch. Would have the same effect as holding the clutch pedal in the neutral position with your foot.
OR
Just find a way to lock the stick on the neutral position.
OR
Just find a way to lock the stick on the neutral position.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Put the brake lever upright and insert a block of wood into the slot in front and behind the lever and secure it from moving.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
What Ed said except place the block in the floorboard slot AHEAD of the brake lever so that as the cam, starts to go from neutral to high, will tend to push the brake lever forward. Make the block just wide enough to keep the lever back just before the cam starts forcing the brake lever into high gear. One behind the lever is ok also, but is not really needed, but ………….
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Besides blocking the brake lever in the most neutral position what about loosening the spark plugs just enough so that if the engine tries to spin the compression will leak out and the T will be easier to push.
Someone tell me if this is a stupid idea….
Someone tell me if this is a stupid idea….
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
There is no idiot proof free neutral. I second Dans suggestion.
I have transported a T by ship. Forget about posting instructions, diagrams, and any expectation that they will follow them, they will not. Do not leave the spark plugs out or loose, it will be left outside in bad weather, and handled with the care of wild angry gorillas.
I have transported a T by ship. Forget about posting instructions, diagrams, and any expectation that they will follow them, they will not. Do not leave the spark plugs out or loose, it will be left outside in bad weather, and handled with the care of wild angry gorillas.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
It is not possible to get it completely free with the clutch disks, which drag a little. I would suggest since you don't need the parking brake, that you take out the clevis pins from the rods and pull the parking brake lever all the way back and tie it in that position. If your rocky brakes are also locked by the parking brake. pull out the link.
Norm
Norm
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Topic author - Posts: 442
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Thanks for the tips. It is going inside a container, not on deck. I do need the parkiNg brakes to work (shippers requirement) I don’t need the transmission brakes to work.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Remove the U-Joint.
Grayling Michigan
1927 Fordor
1926 Huckster
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1927 Fordor
1926 Huckster
Founding member of Northern Michigan Drone Skeet Shooting Club
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
My first thought reading from the beginning, is that a lot of people missed a very important detail. For a variety of reasons, mostly involving safety and liability issues, the hand brake MUST if at all possible be functional by simply pulling back on the hand lever! So, any sort of blocking it or locking it into neutral without the ability to pull it the rest of the way back is a bad idea.
A small rope could be tied to something under the seat and run forward to prevent the hand brake from being pushed all the way forward, but still allow it to be pulled back and set the Rocky Mountain brakes (provided they are set up to work that way?).
If the clutch is draggy? You could remove the small transmission cover, then back the three adjusting screws out a little bit so that the clutch pressure collar can be more loose (put the cotter pins back in?). Carefully count the half-turns and remember them, so that putting them back to where they were is simple and easy. Of course you may discover that some adjustment might be needed anyway?
A small rope could be tied to something under the seat and run forward to prevent the hand brake from being pushed all the way forward, but still allow it to be pulled back and set the Rocky Mountain brakes (provided they are set up to work that way?).
If the clutch is draggy? You could remove the small transmission cover, then back the three adjusting screws out a little bit so that the clutch pressure collar can be more loose (put the cotter pins back in?). Carefully count the half-turns and remember them, so that putting them back to where they were is simple and easy. Of course you may discover that some adjustment might be needed anyway?
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Mostly good ideas. Changing the 3 finger adjustment wont give you MORE neutral unless its already dragging. The idea of a cable/rope to prevent high engagement, while maintaining the ability to apply the parking brake is an excellent solve.Wayne Sheldon wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 4:51 pmMy first thought reading from the beginning, is that a lot of people missed a very important detail. For a variety of reasons, mostly involving safety and liability issues, the hand brake MUST if at all possible be functional by simply pulling back on the hand lever! So, any sort of blocking it or locking it into neutral without the ability to pull it the rest of the way back is a bad idea.
A small rope could be tied to something under the seat and run forward to prevent the hand brake from being pushed all the way forward, but still allow it to be pulled back and set the Rocky Mountain brakes (provided they are set up to work that way?).
If the clutch is draggy? You could remove the small transmission cover, then back the three adjusting screws out a little bit so that the clutch pressure collar can be more loose (put the cotter pins back in?). Carefully count the half-turns and remember them, so that putting them back to where they were is simple and easy. Of course you may discover that some adjustment might be needed anyway?
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Good idea! But since others suggest allowing for neutral and brake, just block the unwanted half. No need to write instructions it looks like a hand brake. If they don't recognize it as such they wouldn't think of reading instructionsThreePedalTapDancer wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 12:34 pmPut the brake lever upright and insert a block of wood into the slot in front and behind the lever and secure it from moving.
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Mick Jagger
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Your pix here shows me a simple C clamp or equivalent on the quadrant would do the job easily.TRDxB2 wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 5:34 pmGood idea! But since others suggest allowing for neutral and brake, just block the unwanted half. No need to write instructions it looks like a hand brake. If they don't recognize it as such they wouldn't think of reading instructionsThreePedalTapDancer wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 12:34 pmPut the brake lever upright and insert a block of wood into the slot in front and behind the lever and secure it from moving.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Pull the keystock out of the axle to rear hub and leave a bit of slack when putting the wheel/hub back on.
You can even grease it a bit.
The handbrake works. Everything will be fine.
You can do it on both sides if you like.
I do this on all my rollers until I am ready to start them up.
Harry Lillo
Calgary
You can even grease it a bit.
The handbrake works. Everything will be fine.
You can do it on both sides if you like.
I do this on all my rollers until I am ready to start them up.
Harry Lillo
Calgary
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Harry said it before me! But when my 26 showed up it rolled around really easy. Took me awhile to figure out why. The axles had the key ways pulled.
“Whether you think you can, or think you can’t-you’re right.”
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Take the spark plugs out and leave it in high gear.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
Quick !... install a KC Warford !!
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
I'd just tape something, someone is liable to steal the c-clampspeedytinc wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 5:45 pmYour pix here shows me a simple C clamp or equivalent on the quadrant would do the job easily.TRDxB2 wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 5:34 pmGood idea! But since others suggest allowing for neutral and brake, just block the unwanted half. No need to write instructions it looks like a hand brake. If they don't recognize it as such they wouldn't think of reading instructionsThreePedalTapDancer wrote: ↑Thu May 26, 2022 12:34 pmPut the brake lever upright and insert a block of wood into the slot in front and behind the lever and secure it from moving.
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
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Re: Trying to get an idiot-proof free neutral for shipping my T
When I started reading the thread my first thought was to pull the keys out of the rear hubs. It takes just a couple minutes and everything else remains functional, thus, I third Harry's suggestion.
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