MTFCA Forum

I'm gearing up to change motor and trans over on two of my RHD T's, I havent tackled an extraction/refit before on a T so learning as I go. I have undone and removed all that I can see.
I made up a jig to hold the drive shaft up.
The concern is the brake pedal looks to be sticking further out than the other car. Its better to drive with more foot room than the other car but I doubt it will squeeze out the firewall opening even with maneuvering it in all directions but wont know for sure until I try.
I don't have any heat available to bend it so am interested in the option of removing the pedal. Looks to be a pin at the base but what sort I can't see.
Maybe there is another option with the pedal?

Any other hints on removing engine/trans as a unit would be appreciated.

Thanks

Lift the engine on No 2 cyl and you get enough angle to get the pedals out from under the firewall on RHD. Trying to get the pin out to remove the pedal will give you nothing but grief with no success.

Pretty much as Kerry said. Don't be tempted to try and remove the pedal.

I have removed both the brake and reverse pedal to make it easier to remove the engine from my Fordor. No problem at all, just squeeze the band ears together, CAREFULLY remove the adjusting nuts & washer from the shaft and slide the pedals out. You'll be glad you did. Replacing them is not a big deal either. Just be sure to use dental floss on BOTH the washer and nut when putting them back in. The floss will not interfere with threading the nut back on. The low speed pedal is best left alone, trust me!

Yes Tim, that works great on LHD T''s but not on RHD ones.

Ahhh...ok. Yeh I actually was wondering...so now I know!! Thanks.

Tim, the difference is on RHD cars, the brake and reverse pedals are externally adjusted, like the LHD clutch pedal. As such, they are not easily removed without taking off the hogshead so you can get at them. They have the internal ramps riveted in place.

Allan from down under.

Thanks guys.
From what your saying plus I watched a few YouTube videos I'm hoping if I tip it up enough it might come out. I guess I'll try that and if no luck I'll come back here.

Thanks again

Take some cord and push the pedals all the way down and tie them down. This will give you more room to clear the firewall. When you lift the engine with a hydraulic lift, tilt the rear of the engine down as you lift the front and slide the engine toward the front until the pedals clear. Jim Patrick

If you are planning to remove the pedals, it can be done through the access panel without removing the hogshead, but be sure to stuff rags down the inside of the Hogshead in case you drop a nut or washer, it will be caught by the rags, before going into the bottom of the pan. Jim Patrick

Jim, only the high low pedal has the nut and washer on it in a RHD hogs head, it's the brake pedal that gets in the way when trying to remove the engine on a RHD.

The 1926 -27 clutch and brake pedals were moved farther away from the reverse, evidently people grew larger feet.

That may just be a larger pedal.

If the transmission has two bolts to the engine on top, it is a later 1926-27 transmission.

There is a small circle with two numbers and a letter in it that tells you what year cover you have there.

Seems like a D is 1926, but I could be off by one year.

I'm curios can you compress the bands and tie them the take the adjusters out remove the clutch link. Will the peddles fall forward enough to clear the firewall?
Craig.

Update - Motor and Trans are out.
I managed to leave the steering as is, the starter motor and generator as is and didn't touch the pedals at all!
Removed the carby, once engine was broken free adjusted the lift for greater tilt bit by bit.
When inlet manifold was forward and close to steering shaft (right hand drive) we levered the other side of the engine (using a bar) above the chassis rail with the motor on a steep angle (see pic) then twisted the engine clockwise until the pedals were low enough to clear the firewall and moved it out.
Took a bit of head scratching and trial and error.
If the steering was removed it would be much easier and I might have to do that for the refit.
In the next couple of days we will tackle the speedster and see if that is any easier. It doesn't have a generator on it (block off plate) plus the pedals are much closer. I will find out if there is less or more room on a steel firewall.
Here is the exact angles for the last stage of the removal.

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