MTFCA Forum

Hello Everyone,
I just installed a new rubber cam shaft seal and was surprised when the outer lip of the seal still had not made contact with the cam shaft when the seal was pressed in all the way. Has anyone else had this problem? Maybe I could have used a press to distort the inner part of the seal so it was deeper in order to make the outer lip ride on the camshaft?

Here are the photos.

The timing cover doesnt appear to be centered to the cam.
Thats a double lip seal? is the inner lip seal making good contact all the way around? Narrowing the metal on the seal would lower it to make contact.
Attempting to "crush" it down will probably end in the seal destroyed.

Try turning the seal around. It is just a splash shield so should be fine the other way. What condition is the cam nut surface where it rides in?

Have you used a centering tool to check that the timing cover is centered on the camshaft?

yes, i did use a centering tool and it does seem to be centered ok. i suspect the photo from an angle makes it look otherwise.
Those are some really good ideas! I have it setting up right now but I’m going to get out there before the “glue” dries and see if i can make one of your ideas work. The surface where the seal rides wasn’t perfect but seemed to be ok generally.
Thanks guys!

That tool that Tim posted a photo of IS NOT the type you want to use - it will not "center" the timing cover to the block !

This is the only centering tool that works...

ONLY?
Do you trust that this tool has the center hole exactly in the center? Did you confirm by accurately measuring the tool? Trust but verify!

I bought a billet aluminum equivalent tool. The center hole was off center .012". A little machine work with a new bushing & I have a centering tool that I trust.
I do agree the centering tool must pick up the timer body location.
The smaller tool checks an area of little consequence & "assumes" the timer cutout is in an exact relationship.

Wow! So, the centering tool I referenced is not necessarily centered? I borrowed one and used it one time - seemed to work OK. I'm always learning something.

I tried to find the KRW tool and so far everything comes up "no longer available"

I haven't tried it myself, but I thought I read somewhere (tinkerin' tips?) that you have to slightly squeeze the modern seal between two metal plates in a vise to expand its diameter just enough to be a snug fit in the front plate.

CudaMan wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 06, 2022 5:04 pm

I haven't tried it myself, but I thought I read somewhere (tinkerin' tips?) that you have to slightly squeeze the modern seal between two metal plates in a vise to expand its diameter just enough to be a snug fit in the front plate.

A slightly larger socket to flare the outer seal case.
Sometimes the old felt seal rotating over the decades wears the bore over sized.
The seal can be glued in with a little ultra black also.

To answer your question, that part of the seal is no more than a dust seal, unimportant for this type of application. the inner part of the seal with the spring pressure is what's sealing.

What Frank said. Turning the seal around will only result in the spring loaded lip having nothing to run on.

Allan from down under.