MTFCA Forum

I have some questions on my 1925 Model T Coupe.

We ordered new tires and took them to someone here locally who restores vintage cars to have them mounted on the split rims. Went to put them on last night, the first one went on perfectly. No issues at all. All 3 of the others were a nightmare to get on. It seems the rims with the tires mounted were no longer perfectly round. My question is...is this normal? Has anyone experienced this? What did you do about it?

Second - the roof is actually in almost perfect shape. There are just a couple of very small holes where it looks like nails from underneath have rubbed through. The holes are less than 1/4 inch in diameter. Any suggestions on how I can patch these holes? I hate to replace the whole roof for just a couple of tiny holes.

Thanks very much. I look forward to hearing from you all.

Flex seal?

Your tire guy's reputation didnt live up to the hype.

Solution. Figure out how to do it yourself or find a competent, experienced guy. You need a rim spreader tool. See recent past discussions.
You will need to start over. Remove the new tires. Carefully straighten the rims. You need a press, some wood blocks, patience & common sense.
When you remount the tires, DONT FORCE ANYTHING. Be patient with the process.
Changing tires on split rims an easy thing to do when you know how.

It MIGHT be possible to use a jack inside the rim if the rim is only out of round & not twisted. Depends on how badly bent up they are.
Again apply a bit of common sense.

If you apply FlexSeal, you will have to go cruising in the swamps. Be sure to mount the paddle tires on the rear axle and install the alligator screens before leaving dry land.

I will loan you my split rim spreader if you pay shipping. PM me with your address.

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 29, 2022 11:14 am

Flex seal?

Flex Seal comes in several different forms: liquid, paste and glue. Likely they are all the same formula just in different consistencies. The Glue is only available in Clear & White so its out (if it were in black I would try it). I have used the paste to repair the rubber style 1913-22 switch base and the result was undetectable, but it might be a little thick to fill a small hole with out
There area many other sealants that would work as well on your top. What you need to consider how you need to cover the problem area. For example something that is more fluid might fill-in a tiny hole and self level than a thicker formula that needs to be spread and wiped off.

If the holes are really small you might consider a non-latex flat or satin finish black paint and a toothpick.

Frank if the holes are that small & since you’ve had some experience with the product, would the clear paste work? As far as appearance who would really be able to see it, it’s on a hard top. Dan does your T have the headliner installed?

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 29, 2022 12:37 pm

Frank if the holes are that small & since you’ve had some experience with the product, would the clear paste work? As far as appearance who would really be able to see it, it’s on a hard top. Dan does your T have the headliner installed?

The paste may be an expensive solution, depends on how may holes. I held back on suggesting it because of the price. The paste comes in a jar with an internal seal over the paste. Once the seal is broken the paste may last about a week no matter how hard you try to reseal it. So if the price doesn't bother you it would work just fine. My caution about using anything is "over spray" for want of a better word. You just need to fill the small hole not over the surrounding edges but just to them. So you could do a trail to spread a little and the wipe off any excess.
If their "glue" came in black I'd see what that was like because it might be more self leveling to fill the small hole. Colors, even black, will reflect light differently so that may also be a consideration depending on how particular you are.

Since the holes are so small, how about dabbing on some “The Right Stuff” or “Ultra Black” and neatly smoothing it out or matching the grain as close as possible using a toothpick. Jim Patrick

Thanks for all of the replies.

Sounds like I need to revisit my tire guy about those split rims.

soonerdg wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 29, 2022 2:21 pm

Thanks for all of the replies.

Sounds like I need to revisit my tire guy about those split rims.

You might ask if he has a rim splitter tool & if this was the first set of T split rims he has seen.

Steve Thum in St Louis is a diver. He advised me years ago to go to a dive shop. They have the stuff scuba divers use on their wetsuits. Might be worth a try.

Instructions By Dave Roberts October 16, 2007
Then, when mounting a new/repaired tire, turn the spreader assembly 180 degrees so
the 2 swing arms are at the 2:00 and 10:00 aspect and the 'bird beak' arm at 6:00. When you
crank the handle, the 2 ends of the split rim should easily glide over each other and lock.

I am not trying to defend the people that mounted the new tires, but I have owned my T since early 60's and used the spreader. Changing the tires hasn't been easy but the last new Universals did not fit as in the past. It seems that the new ones were smaller diameter and very difficult. We now have metal wheels that went on easier than on the wood spoke wheels. This may have been their problems as well.
And yes, you need to address the issues. There may be others that have had the same problems.

Really appreciate all the responses and all of the information. Great tips and instructions on how to do this myself. No ill will against the guy who mounted them. He's a hobbyist as well. I'm going to use the ideas from this post to break down the tires and see if I can straighten the rims.

Thanks again!