MTFCA Forum

I am getting ready to install the felt channels for the door glass in my 1927 coupe.

Questions:
1) Is there a set distance between the top and bottom clips or do I have to measure to verify the distance between the anchor points (which looks like it would be difficult to get a good measurement)?

2) The first photo shows the top and bottom clips and a new clip. The bottom clip is on the long piece of channel. The new clip is too wide for the bottom anchor point, so I will have to drill out the rivets and reuse the bottom clip. How do I reattach it? Do I have to find some kind of rivet or can I use small bolts?

3) Is there any place where adhesive is used on the channels?

4) The second photo shows the rubber cushion being inserted into the metal channel that is attached to the top of the door by three screws. Should adhesive be used on the rubber cushion? The cushion seems to be held firmly in place by the three screws and its "shaped" bottom as shown in the third photo.

5) Is the rubber stopper shown in the fourth photo in the correct position or should it be rotated 90 degrees to the position in the fifth photo? I have new stoppers, but I am thinking reusing the existing ones because it looks like it would be difficult removing and replacing them. What do you think?

In addition to the above, any comments or suggestions on installing the felt channels or other items involved with getting the door glass installed would be appreciated.

Since you have, or had, a beautiful, all original car, unchanged from the factory, it is very important to take plenty of pictures, plenty of measurements and make plenty of notes and drawings before dismantling an original assembly (that you can be confident was correct), to refer to when you are ready to install the assembly so you can review the pictures, notes, measurements and drawings, as you put it all back together the same way you took it apart. It’s that simple. This practice should be followed during all stages of your restoration. That way you will be able to confidently reassemble the various components of your T, with more information in your files to draw on, than we MTFCA members could ever provide by relying on old memories based on information that could be based upon an incorrect assembly, as well as memories that may have faded with time. Pictures, notes and drawings is how I preserved the way I disassembled the assemblies of my T when I restored my ‘26 coupe from 1970 to 1972 before the internet or the vast resources available today. Jim Patrick

Jim, I agree.

I have taken a lot of photos, and they are helping as I am putting things back together. I have put parts and screws/bolts into plastic bags with a description of where they go.

Very glad to hear it Bruce. I know you have taken lots of pictures of your overall car, but just be sure you take lots of pictures of the specific assemblies you are getting ready to work on to use during reassembly. I’d walk you through the window guide procedure, but it was 51 years ago when at the age of 17, I installed my new felt window guides in the doors in 1971. All I remember is that it was surprisingly easy. In working on my T during a ground up restoration, I sort of learned as I went with no one to ask, so I had to figure it out myself. I also recall that I had no problem with it because just like most tasks on the Model T, there is usually only one way for it to fit properly if you refer to your pictures drawings and notes and line up the holes correctly. Is the other door intact? If so, use the other door to complete the door you are working on. Keep up the good work. Jim Patrick

PS. When I used to repair antique clocks, such as, replacing a broken spring, it would require me to completely disassemble the clock and all of the gears and springs. Without taking lots of pictures of the disassembly process, there is no way I could have reassembled the clock. …Well, I probably could have assembled it without pictures by trial and error, but the pictures definitely made the assembly alot easier, a lot faster and alot less chance of error.

Regarding my first question, I now believe it will be fairly ease to determine the length between the anchor points.

Regarding my second question, I have drilled out the rivets on the top and bottom anchor clips and will use small bolts to reattach them.

The attached photos show my metal channels into which the glass will be is set. Should I paint the inside or would the bare metal provide better adhesion for the setting tape?

I used small pop rivets with washers on the reverse side. Unlike screws and nuts, rivets will not vibrate loose. I sanded, primed and painted my channels so they would not rust. Jim Patrick