MTFCA Forum

My 40 year old tube with 2 patches finally gave up the ghost, one of the patches delaminated from the tube and something happened to the rubber that it got gummy so I decided to replace the tube. I have been changing Model T tires for over 50 years, drop center, clincher, and split rims. I have learned a few tricks and as tire mounting goes, split rims are probably the least of a wrestling match. One word of caution to new T owners, do not give your clincher or split rims to a modern tire store to have them mount tires for you. The right tools and a little know how goes a long way for success. Here is how I do it.

Start with the right tools and a clean floor. A rim spreader, 2 large tire irons, hammer, valve stem remover, and baby powder. Starting with a bare rim, put the rim spreader with the single hook near the rim split on the side of the rim that will overlap on the inside of the rim, that is the side of the rim with the male locking tab. Do not go past the valve stem hole or you may damage the rim. Partially inflate the tube, dust the tube, flap, and inside the tire with baby powder. Put the tube and flap inside the tire. Most modern tires have a colored dot on the side wall to indicate where to put the tire stem for best balancing. Insert the valve stem into the rim stem hole and start there to mount the tire. Use the tire irons to pry the tire onto the rim. Both sides of the tire at once. Use one iron to pop the tire into the rim, leave the iron in place and use another iron a few inches further away from the first. Once the second iron has popped the tire on remove the first iron and do again a few inches further. Doing both sides of the tire with the tube and flap together will protect the tube from being pinched. Once the tire is on the rim you need to expand the rim. The valve stem is a problem since it will start to angle as the rim expands. Best to start with the valve stem angled the opposite way so it will compensate for the expanding rim. Also the rim spreader needs to be reversed so the 2 hooks are now on the male side.


More to follow.

Continued.

Rim spreader reversed The last bit to get the rim end to drop into place is best done by prying with a tire iron rather than trying to get the rim spreader to do it. Over doing it at this stage can cause the rim to be damaged. As a Kid I bent a rim or two into an egg shape with a rim spreader at this stage. Easier to just pry the ends of the rim with the tire iron. A couple of hits with a hammer will finish the alignment of the two rim ends. Not done yet. Inflate the tire then remove the tire stem valve so the air escapes rapidly, bounce the tire vigorously while the air escapes. Repeat. Now install the tire stem valve and inflate the tire, it is now ready to be mounted on the wheel.

Jeff,

Super nice "How to" for everyone!

Humbled Hank

Very informative and helpful....going to bookmark this one!

Tim

Agreed - nice tutorial - only addition I do is pressure the tire up to recommended pressure AFTER bolting up to wheel.

Wonderful pictures Jeff. I am new to split rims, but fumbled along with 23" Chev rims and 4.40 tyres on my T tourer, pretty much along your lines.

Might I add, I mount 30" clinchers with the tube and flap installed and both sides levered on at the same time.

Allan from down under.

I cheat a little doing split rims. I also do motorcycle work so I have a Coates 220 Manual Tire machine. The rim clamp does I nice job of compressing the rim and keeping everything straight. Then I mount the tire, tube, and flap using the big bar if necessary. Then I use a rim spreader to get the rim out and lock it.

When spreading the rim to join and lock the two halves, I would not use a chisel to pry open the two halves. You can use the rim spreader in reverse to spread the two halves open. When you have the tire beads in the rim and the stem positioned vertically and you are ready to close and latch the rim… With the tire positioned with the stem to the right of the split, reverse the rim spreader so that the single leg is positioned on the opposite half close to the split on the the left half, close to the split opposite the stem and the latch side and start cranking the jack open so that it will push the left half outward, until the two half’s are even.
Eat off some until the two halves are butted up to eachother. Make your final adjustments and lock the rim in place. Jim Patrick