MTFCA Forum

Greasing the universal joint the original way can take forever, so I resorted to this.

Even with a zerk in the cup it took a lot of strokes to fill the cavity, but it was a lot less tiresome than the old way.


But the post in the cap won't let it screw on with the zerk in place. If I shorten the post, is there any reason that will be a problem later if I want to go back to original? I can't think of any, but that thing must be in there for a reason. Opinions?

Can you use the cap from the one you removed (or extra one laying around)? I use a number of the zerk kind and have never seen one with a post in it. Also, do you pull the cap and fill the cavity completely? I usually just give it a couple of pumps from the gun.

I have 3 T’s and the Ujoint grease cups on my cars don’t have the post. I was thinking they were original since they with the cars. They aren’t reproductions by no means so the posts being inside the cups is a new one for me. The one in my 24 Coupe I am pretty sure is original with the car but I guess anything is possible.

I bought a large amount of T parts from a guy in the 70’s with several of the large Ujoint cups. None of those had the center post as I remember.
Always learning things about T’s on the forum.

The "cap" I am referring to is the one to the left in your picture (on the axle tube). Not the cap for the grease cup.

It's been a while since I've had it off but I believe the universal joint grease cup on my unrestored '17 roadster has a post inside the cap. Can't remember if it is square like Mr. Jelf's.

There must be a reason for it, otherwise it wouldn't be there.

The cups I have had with the square post also have a type of spring in the body of the cup. This spring clamps around the post and prevents it from working loose.

Steve

offer to swap it for one without a post. Someone's going to want it for their still-spring-equipped-cup and would likely happily swap a non-original cover for an original

After reading Jim Sims' post, mine does have the spring.

Thank you for refreshing my memory.

Since greasing the universal in not a daily thing to do, you could just remove the zerk and screw on the cap with the post in place.

What is wrong with using the grease cup the way it was designed? You certainly don't need that silly zerk fitting in there!

What is wrong with using the grease cup the way it was designed?

That's what I do with all the small ones. But when I did it with that one Arthur complained. I'm not a big fan of pain.

I've also seen the ball cap turned (grease cup) down so as to be accessible from under the car rather than removing floorboards, shifters, cut-out pedal linkages, etc.

"What's wrong with using the grease cup the way it was designed?"

If the U-joint is low, that cup starts looking like using a thimble to fill a bucket.

The Model A probably holds more than a T, but I remember a helpful fellow at Snyder's telling me that, if I didn't know when my Model A was last greased, then I needed to start with a full tube in my grease gun. I was incredulous. He then added that I should use a pneumatic gun rather than a hand pump. Boy, was he right. By the time that U-joint was full my grease gun was nearly empty and my hand was tired just squeezing the handle on the air powered gun.

If I want to grease the U joint I unscrew the large great cup and screw in a zerk fitting and get after it with a grease gun. Much quicker and less messy. I then replace the the fitting with the large grease cup to be more original.
I guess I ought to screw in a zerk fitting in the greas cup. I just have never done it. This idea was in Tinkering tips years ago. Or it may have been an articl about it in the vintage ford mag.

I suppose some people are just lazy! It isn't much work to refill the cap several times to get plenty of grease in there, and if you have recently installed the rear end, you should have packed the cavity with grease before hand!

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 19, 2019 12:36 pm

I've also seen the ball cap turned (grease cup) down so as to be accessible from under the car rather than removing floorboards, shifters, cut-out pedal linkages, etc.

So was just the ball cap down, or was the whole driveshaft tube upside down, so that the hole aligned? I've found that I installed the driveshaft tube 180 degrees out after rebuilding differential, and I'm wondering if I should take it all apart and reverse it. My gut says yes, my body says no (but it can be convinced).

I install a zerk and leave it. The only one that knows it's there is me and frankly, I don't care what others might think.

Since my car has a Warford, the tube has to be installed upside down to access the grease cups. I installed zerk fittings. I use a regular grease gun to lube the drive shaft bushing, but an air grease gun for the u-joint. I can pump a full tube of grease into the u-joint in very little time.

One needs to turn the whole torque tube 180 degrees so both grease fitting point down towards the ground.

I was not able to rotate the torque tube, as something (brake lever or running board brace) was in the way of one of the grease cups. I just flipped correctly, and placed a 90 brass elbow in place and then installed a 20-30" grease gun hose with a remote zerk on the fire wall above the starter. Not very noticeable, especially when wrapped with friction tape. It is very convenient to grease. FYI, I drive a lot, usually 5K miles a year, so it is more convenient that removing the rubber mat to get under the floor.

Steve, I hear you about Arthur. Fibro-MyAlgwhatevertheheckitis makes it a pain (literally) to spin that cup a few times.
I have the square pin and spring in the 18's cup here and he's due for a refresh. Great ideas here.
I really like the cordless grease gun thought big time. The maintenance guys use one at work and it looks cool.
Myself, I'd make ready for a Zerk install and then remove the Zerk with a full cup ready after filling.
My first fill, I put the grease gun's fitting in the open hole for the cup base/stem and started pumping. It fit pretty good! Then I went and sat down, laying my arm on my leg for awhile then went back at it until I finished filling.
A pipe instead of a hose would've worked nicer, I think. Cut that bloody pin out if you wish.

It doesn't really hurt, Duane. You and I are just lazy.

I'n thinking that the only person who would know if the pin was gone is you. Nobody is goingto remove the cap to inspect it. Typical "field modification" for improved lubrication.

My universal grease cup does not have a spring. I have a spare torque tube that had decades worth of hardened dirt over the grease cup. There was so much dirt that you would not know what was under it if you don't know Model T's. After chiseling off the dirt and removing the cup, there was no spring in it. Was the spring installed during manufacture or was it added later? Should I be concerned about not having a spring?

Should I be concerned about not having a spring?

Yes, and only use NOS grease. Failure to do so will cause your timer to run backwards (except south of the Equator, of course).

Taking the spring out may cause you to lose the cap. Just open a beer, and give it several fillings. It's isn't that big of a deal!

I have enjoyed this thread in many ways. I will say I have never lost a cap on any of mine in 50 some years of touring (no springs).
Also, when I put grease in I can push a lot through with finger pressure like a pump plunger. That saves time screwing the cap off and on.
No, we can't see them but the zerks are a little like Phillips screws in my mind.
Thanks for the insights.
Rich

I unscrew the cap and hold the grease gun firm against the bottom of cup and pump away. When its full it pushes up. I fill the cup and and cap and thread it back on. My cap has a spring or spade inside it on my RPU.

I thought I was retired but I work with heavy equipment to help a friend out and he introduced me to this battery grease gun when I grease the excavators and dozers. Man I love it and it is great. I may even get one for myself.


I know Mr. Thrifty they are not cheap but neither is fighting pain caused by your old buddy Art Rightis!

"It doesn't really hurt, Duane. You and I are just lazy. "
Hahaha! Yep! Fiddlesticks. Ouch.

Be careful about how much grease you pump in. You do not want to pump grease through the rear main into your oil pan and transmission. The grease will not act well with the bands. The cup puts in a measured amount of grease.