MTFCA Forum

Were original body blocks treated? Should new blocks be treated and, if so, how?

No they were not treated. Treating the blocks was unnecessary during manufacture.

Now you should treat them with something, your choice of clear finish like varnish, polyurethane, etc.

The ones in my 24 T coupe were still in good shape but over the years they were grease and grime color! I’ve seen a few more originals that way and the grease stains were good for preserving them.

If you would like to treat your blocks so they will not deteriorate and will last forever, the best product to use is a 2 part epoxy called “LiquidWood” mfg. by Abatron (www.Abatron.com). It is also available from Amazon. It is available in several sizes depending on how much you need and your budget. I usually get the quart kits as it has a long shelf life. Once part A and B are mixed together in a 1:1 ratio, it becomes a clear liquid the consistency of water. It is painted on the bare wood and soaks in. The more that is painted on, the deeper into the wood it goes. This must be done as many times as possible because once it starts to cure and harden, no more can ever be applied. Once it totally cures, it turns to a rock hard plastic that protects the wood as deep into the wood it goes and does not change the appearance of the wood. I use it on my Victorian house to halt and stabilize dry rotted wood parts, such as window sills and sashes so they do not have to be replaced. It is also great to preserve dry rotted parts on the Model T. Especially compound curved body wood that is very difficult to replace for anyone without woodworking experience. Jim Patrick

Has anybody made blocks from the 'plastic' decking materials that are so common today? And if so, with what result? I used it for the hood shelf blocks on my 26 and will also make body blocks from it. jb