MTFCA Forum

Purists may not want to read any further... I've been going thru my front and rear suspension, axles, wheels - everything that moves. In the process I discovered my shackles and spring / perch bushings were worn. I ordered new shackles and bushings and was getting ready to install them when I decided to do a little experiment.

My '17 came with shackles that have the brass oilers on the ends, not on the perches. Being of an inquisitive nature I wondered just how well dribbling oil into a oiler on the end of the shackle shaft would lube the shackle / bushing interface. It didn't seem to be very efficient and indeed, my test showed that the arrangement did not distribute oil that well. For my second test, I installed grease zerks in place of the brass oilers, assembled the shackles and bushings and hooked up my grease gun containing Timken bearing grease. Two pulls of the trigger and I had grease coming out both ends of the bushing. Carefully disassembling it, I observed that grease totally covered the shackle / bushing interface with no dry spots.

Since I am building a car to drive, not show, I've decided to go with the grease zerks. I'll throw the brass oilers in a baggie and if I ever want to display the car in it's authentic glory it's a job of a few minutes to swap oilers for zerks.

I will continue to use a heavy oil to lube the king pins and tie rod bolts. Their vertical mounting allows gravity to distribute oil along their length, unlike the horizontally-mounted shackles. Flame away!

Tim-
If you use Alemite grease fittings they will look less modern.
For my shackles and tie rods I have used chainsaw bar oil for years and years. It is more sticky than regular oil.
: ^ )

Ford went to grease for the shackles in Oct of 1927 most other cars used grease in this location. I think you are on the right track for heavy oil for the king pins and tie rods. The bushings there were/aren't designed for grease, esp the king pins with the only opening almost level with the top of the upper bushing.

Put zerks in grease em now and then you be happy

My kingpins have oil cups at the top. No threads, right? Can they be replaced with Zerks?

I do not think zerk-style fittings come non-threaded. It is a possibility that Model A drive-in early style grease fittings could be fitted to a straight (non-threaded) kingpin (spindle bolt).The problem is that only the top bushing will receive grease unless the bushing is totally worn out to the point that grease will get past it. The kingpin is not configured to deliver a thick material to the lower bushing. Typically, on original kingpins, the cross-drilled oil hole is just above the top bushing and It relies on thin oil working it's way past the top bushing, running down the kingpin and puddling on top of the lower bushing.

Hey Scott. Yes, Zerk fittings do indeed come non threaded, they are referred to as drive in fittings. That being said, you are absolutely correct that spindles on a T should not be greased. The grease will only take the easiest path, leaving something unlubed. Dave

When I rebuilt the springs and components of my 26, I replaced pretty much all the grease-able shackles and king pins, tie rod ends, etc. All of them seemed in pretty good shape and I kept the old components. I don't mind periodically oiling the stuff that needs is regularly. Where I did use zerks was in the grease cups on the driveshaft and u-joint. Since I have floor mats and a Ruckstell, removing those to get the floorboards out just to get access to the grease cups was a pain. So, I just replaced those cups with zerks and there's less aggravation getting the job done now.

David

thank you for the info. I was unaware of that configuration (other than Model A). If I'm not careful, I manage to learn something every day!