MTFCA Forum

Fired up my '15 for the first time and she ran like a top for about 2 minutes. I just wanted to do a short run and determine what needs to be done next. After I shut her down I found a little leak of coolant down the side coming from the head gasket. Just to be sure, sounds like pulling the head is next and see what gives from there...

Has anyone has this drippy issue? I had ground the area to the right of the pipe down to bare metal to inspect it before I painted it, yet all I found was iron, so it makes me wonder about the motor's history.

Thanks,
Jim

You need to go through at least 2 or 3 heating & cooling cycles and re-torque to 45 lbs. +/- after it cools down each time. You will get opinions regarding torqueing hot but I've done it this way for 40 + years and not ever had a "weeper".

And - all the c.c. bolts should be "nuts-up" except for the bolt under the commutator - it goes "nut down" to prevent shorting out the timer.

Gotcha, will do- I have to fix an exhaust leak and my timer is getting rubbed by the fan belt, once I fix those things then I'll fire it back up. I did check the head bolts today and they were 45lbs of torque after I had it running.

If all else fails, I would try some stop leak.
Others may disagree.

Just went out to check and I think I may have bigger problems- I'm leaking from the water jacket in two places.

Cracked block, looks to have been repaired before, a repeat of your poo of choice might help.

From the second photo - yep, you're S.O.L. ! One can see how "the crack remedy" was smoothed out - more than likely J.B. Weld.

Much clearer picture.
Clean/sand it down and see what was used and either remove and start over or reapply.
The good news is it only has to hold water, no pressure. And you don't have to pull the head.

Or pull engine and have it welded or replace it.

Typical spot for a crack. I had one do that. V ed it out with a die grinder and had it professionally welded with Nickel rod. Hasn't leaked again in some 45 years.

I weep for your weeps...

The best way to fix them is to pull the motor down and have them done right - the nickel welding works. I know doing this kills a couple weekends of touring (plus time in the shop), but otherwise the problem will resurface again... unfortunately usually at the worst time.

Someone told me there were issues in the '15 castings... My mid-15 motor was inexplicably replaced in late '15... in a way it's cool as it was stamped within a day of car # 1,000,000... the rumor I heard (who knows if it's true) was Ford was swapping the bad motors out if it were kept hush hush (there you are, Model T Conspiracy Theory 101!! --lol--) ... it's always intriuged me as my car is by all appearances a late model 15 (August) but the motor/transmission are all December '15's (Motor, head, hogshead cover, pedals, etc.) with casting dates on the block and head that say as much... I was told the motor was the "original" to the car (by the 2nd owner), and have no reason to have doubted him, tho I was quite young (and he quite old)...

Here's the news as of today, the evidence shows that the motor has been recently rebuilt with new .060 pistons and valves, and is very clean, and the two weepy spots looks to have been repaired at some point and tiny holes have re-emerged. The head was clean and crack free and so is the deck.

Here are pics of what I have found:

No Problem fozz, Lots of blocks have these freeze cracks. It can easily be fixed and will last for many many years of driving with a simple easy fix.

Here's the way I have fixed my '12 block with the same leak. After it is cleaned off like you have done, I shaped some thin brass shim stock to fit over the cracks. I applied to the crack and glued the brass metal over the crack to give additional strength and also smoothed over the patch with some more ULTRA BLACK. Paint over the patch and forget it is there! The problem with a JB weld patch is that the block will contract and expand with the hot and cold cycles and the Ultra Black remains flexible and sticks Very good!

Gene,
What is the thickness of the brass shim stock that you have used in the past? Did you smear the RTV all over the shim stock first before sticking it to the crack?

Thanks,
Jim

Jim
I still have that complete 16 engine for sale, there is a customer that was coming up last week some time to look at it , he did not make it he is not just looking at spare engines but a lot parts as well, he also knows it is for sale 1st come first serve, Bob

Thanks Bob, I was thinking of that too. I just don’t know if I have another spare chunk of change to drop on a motor.

Thank you,
Jim

Best product for that crack is Belzona Epoxy (expensive !) - follow directions and be done with it - it will outlast your grandkids !

Reminds me a of a repair we had to do about six years ago on our '53 Chevy. Remember, this is a pressurized system.
There was a automatic transmission cooler separate from the radiator with a rusted outlet pipe. After fabricating a new outlet pipe, I took it to a welder to reattach it to the body of the unit and watched him weld it up. After we tested it, we found pin holes. So, he welded it again with the same results. After the third try I told him to not worry about the pin holes and I paid him. I then took the cooler to a radiator shop and had the guy sweat it. The guy said, "The welder did a good job." I chuckled but agreed and passed the compliment to the welder. Basically, what happened here is that I got a piece that was rust free, structurally sound, and leak free.
Whether or nor you want to remove the block and have the rusty pin holes removed first and corrected is up to you.

Fozz, Just use the thinnest that's handy. Yes, apply a coat over the cracked area and into the Clean crack and some on the preformed shim stock patch. I used a small piece from my spare stock so don't know what thickness but isn't important. You don't want a piece too heavy cause it would be hard to pre form it over the crack and also you want thinner so it isn't as noticeable when your all done and painted. I just added the brass for some extra strength and think any thin metal would work fine.