Reassembling the 27 Coupe
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Topic author - Posts: 878
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 coupe
- Location: Ames, Iowa
- MTFCA Number: 31192
Reassembling the 27 Coupe
Phase II of my coupe restoration is reassembling. Just installed the engine.
I would appreciate "do and don'ts" comments as it progresses!
I would appreciate "do and don'ts" comments as it progresses!
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- Posts: 3922
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
- MTFCA Number: 28924
Re: Reassembling the 27 Coupe
Just for comparison when I restored my 24 Coupe I used saw horses and placed 2x4’s on them far enough over on each side and rolled the unbolted body out from under it. No hoist, cranes because I didn’t have any. It worked out pretty well.
Your Coupe project looks like it’s going well by the way. Looks like you’ve got the chassis reworked and the engine also so it should be pretty straight forward putting it together. I haven’t worked on a 26-27 T and I’ve read the gas tank can sometimes be an issue because of its location.
Keep up the good work and it will turn out really nice!
Your Coupe project looks like it’s going well by the way. Looks like you’ve got the chassis reworked and the engine also so it should be pretty straight forward putting it together. I haven’t worked on a 26-27 T and I’ve read the gas tank can sometimes be an issue because of its location.
Keep up the good work and it will turn out really nice!
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- Posts: 180
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:49 pm
- First Name: Christopher
- Last Name: Instness
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 runabout, 1923 speedster
- Location: Roseville, Ca
- MTFCA Number: 52552
Re: Reassembling the 27 Coupe
I’ve enjoyed watching the progress on this project. Glad to see it coming back together.
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- Posts: 2210
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- MTFCA Number: 50126
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Reassembling the 27 Coupe
Good reminder John. It would be good idea to install the gas tank in the cowl before mounting the body on the chassis. While it can be done after the body has been mounted, the pedals and steering column make it a bear to install the tank after the body has been mounted onto the chassis. Jim Patrick.
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- Posts: 6435
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Reassembling the 27 Coupe
So many of the pictures appear to show bare, blasted and unprimed steel...if not bare, certainly not finish painted...how come?
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- Posts: 6443
- Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:08 pm
- First Name: Pat
- Last Name: McNallen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926-7 roadster
- Location: Graham, Texas
- MTFCA Number: 51486
- Board Member Since: 2021
Re: Reassembling the 27 Coupe
All sheet metal needs at least a good coat of primer, inside and out. It needs to cover every bit off the metal, so far as it is possible to do. Exposed steel will rust, especially if it has been sandblasted. Interior surfaces and structural parts of the lower body are especially prone to rust. Indoors or out, any exposed steel can and will rust.
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- Posts: 2210
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- MTFCA Number: 50126
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Reassembling the 27 Coupe
You won’t regret putting that tank in now. Good job!
Scott and Pat are right about bare, blasted steel. Rust is very susceptible to moisture and is like a spreading disease. If you let it go, it will spread and even attack the painted areas. Hopefully, you have some left over maroon finish. To prevent overspray getting on the rest of the car, you can prime (red oxide primer is preferable) and paint (your left over maroon) the unseen areas using a good quality 2” to 2 1/2” brush. Concentrate on the panel joints where moisture can gather, especially at the bottom of the body and bottom of the doors. If you feather the primer and paint until the brush marks are gone it will look as good as sprayed on paint while providing the necessary protection Jim Patrick
Scott and Pat are right about bare, blasted steel. Rust is very susceptible to moisture and is like a spreading disease. If you let it go, it will spread and even attack the painted areas. Hopefully, you have some left over maroon finish. To prevent overspray getting on the rest of the car, you can prime (red oxide primer is preferable) and paint (your left over maroon) the unseen areas using a good quality 2” to 2 1/2” brush. Concentrate on the panel joints where moisture can gather, especially at the bottom of the body and bottom of the doors. If you feather the primer and paint until the brush marks are gone it will look as good as sprayed on paint while providing the necessary protection Jim Patrick
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Topic author - Posts: 878
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 coupe
- Location: Ames, Iowa
- MTFCA Number: 31192
Re: Reassembling the 27 Coupe
The surfaces inside the body have been painted: I prime painted the surfaces, that will not be visible after the upholstery is installed, with a brush. This was done prior to taking the body to the professional painter. The surfaces that will be visible were painted by him.
I believe the reason you think the surfaces are not painted is the color of the primer. I added a small can of rusty metal Rust-Oleum to the gallon of gray Rust-Oleum primer because the blast cleaned surface looked identical to the gray primer. The result is the "pinkish" color which sort of looks like an unpainted surface, especially when there is marron over spray on it.
The only surfaces that did not get prime painted are: (1) The part that holds the dash (see pic with the gas tank). I had to remove the dash and take it back to the painter because of some paint defects. I forgot to paint it when I reinstalled the dash. (2) The upper parts of the inside of the doors because I could reach those areas with the brush.
I believe the reason you think the surfaces are not painted is the color of the primer. I added a small can of rusty metal Rust-Oleum to the gallon of gray Rust-Oleum primer because the blast cleaned surface looked identical to the gray primer. The result is the "pinkish" color which sort of looks like an unpainted surface, especially when there is marron over spray on it.
The only surfaces that did not get prime painted are: (1) The part that holds the dash (see pic with the gas tank). I had to remove the dash and take it back to the painter because of some paint defects. I forgot to paint it when I reinstalled the dash. (2) The upper parts of the inside of the doors because I could reach those areas with the brush.