MTFCA Forum

The joke in our house, "If there is not oil under it! There ain't oil in it". As I put the engine back together, a goal is to remove as many oil leaks as possible.

I purchased Lang's "Oil Pan Sealing Nylon Washer Set" (P# 3100WS, $3.95). The description states the areas they are for, but they arrived with zero instructions. I have not dug into the package yet to figure out what and how many go where. So for example, when bolting the pan to the block, do you put a nylon washer under the bolt head and nut? But there is a lock washer if I recall correctly? Not sure how this is going to help? I'm thinking maybe placing one washer under the bolt head, and make sure there is plenty of RTV around the bolt hole, and maybe add a tad tot the threads when I put it all back together, to fill the hole. On my inspection pan ,I put together like this the last time I had it off and it still leaked.

T's always leak, but I would like to be able to park it on the concrete driveway without a mess under it. She parks in the garage on her pad, or out in the street. Never gets left on the driveway.

Thanks

They are for the inspection plate not pan to block.

You may already know this but when trying to get your lower pan ( inspection cover or plate) to stop leaking the bolt holes all the way around the lower cover should be inspected to see if they are dimpled in or concave.
After many years of removing the pan for engine repairs the holes get mashed in. In other words the cover has to perfectly flat to be against the flat surface of the main engine pan.

Lay the cover on a flat piece iron, board or any hard flat surface and flatten out the holes all the way around. Doing that and a new gasket usually stops the lower pan leaks.

When you have the engine torn down it’s also a idea to check the holes in the engine pan for flatness and flatten them out. It does help.

these actually work: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... oduct=3245

stat-o-seals on inspection pan, hog's head inspection plate and if you're a clever machinist, the neutral adjuster screw, too.

no lockwashers

John kuehn wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 29, 2022 7:16 pm

You may already know this but when trying to get your lower pan ( inspection cover or plate) to stop leaking the bolt holes all the way around the lower cover should be inspected to see if they are dimpled in or concave.
After many years of removing the pan for engine repairs the holes get mashed in. In other words the cover has to perfectly flat to be against the flat surface of the main engine pan.

Lay the cover on a flat piece iron, board or any hard flat surface and flatten out the holes all the way around. Doing that and a new gasket usually stops the lower pan leaks.

When you have the engine torn down it’s also a idea to check the holes in the engine pan for flatness and flatten them out. It does help.

I did not look at the nylon washers. Looks like I might have used stat-o-seal, on the inspection pan the last time I assembled it.

I did checked the inspection cover and pan this evening for straightness. The inspection cover was bandana shaped. The ends were maybe 1/16 to an 1/8 up. Not bad over all. Fairly easy fix. I think I straighten it before.

The pan was another issue. Number of bolt holes near where the engine and hogs head join, were very buldged. Suspect this is some of my major oil leaks. Don't have have a pan straightening jig. But a couple hammers and dollies and a heavy table. I got it within 1/32. I would guess some of the bolt holes were over 1/8" off.

I hope you know that for a dripless T Ultra Black or the Right Stuff by Permatex it your Friend!! I don't use the Right Stuff because of it's limited working time before it cures. Clean the surfaces oil free apply a small bead and assemble. It's that simple. It sticks super good and is flexible so there is a million uses for what you have left. You can eliminate the gasket material in most places.
I've had good luck sealing the tube between jobs by pulling a piece of electrical tape over the tip sealing it off air tight. Don't let the tip sit long uncovered. The black RTV at walmart I think is not the same.

When flattening out the bolt holes around the engine pan and lower cover will help in stopping leaks. Flat to flat always work better for gasket surfaces in any situation. In my experience the worst leaks always seem to come from the transmission cover area.
I remember reading about flattening out the bolt holes years ago in tinkering tips. There were lots of good basic ideas that was from tinkering tips.

In my hunble opinion, Surf city Gene got it right, in 60 some years of assembling engines, the use of first GE silicone, and then, and way better, Right Stuff has made habitual leakers, dry. David Sullivan, Bellingham WA