MTFCA Forum

It was a bad day on Saturday. Does anybody have a single aluminum piston and rings, 0.060" over sitting on a shelf?

: ^ (

Keith

Did the wrist pin seize to cause this? How many miles on overhaul?

What does the cylinder look like? Piston might be saved with new rings, but if cylinder is badly scored, it will need to be bored or sleeved. That doesn't look like a wrist pin was too tight. It looks like there might not have been enough clearance between the piston and the cylinder. Aluminum pistons expand at a greater rate than cast iron and if the engine overheats, it can score the cylinder.
Norm

Which cylinder on which T, Keith ? Something got too hot or not enough piston to wall clearance!

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 03, 2022 4:14 pm

Which cylinder on which T, Keith ? Something got too hot or not enough piston to wall clearance!

Best to check the clearances on the other 3. What were the clearances set to?

Steve-
It is #1 on the 1911. The car I'm planning to take to California in 20 days.
Oil was a little low, engine running cool.
Been running fine for 10 years.
Stopped immediately, so only a little score. I think it will clean up fine with a hone.

Now... about ONE piston and rings...

I really don't want to buy sets of 4!

Yes but, will the new one match in weight or deck height?
Different manufactures vary widely. In fact one manufacturer's piston set varied widely among its own set of 4.

These new sets from China have a jeweled finish & are perfect dimensionally & weight wise.
Do it right once IMO.

best if you could use that old piston with new rings----the rod journal fits the engine

I might have the rings but they are used

That looks odd to me. Could the cylinder be out of round? Rod bent? Oil pipe clogged? Ring gap issue, stuck ring, or broken ring?

Why after 10 years did this happen. Heat or oil issue

Art Mirtes

Check your email Keith.

Thanks for all the input. I bit the bullet and ordered a set of pistons and rings and will replace all four. At least they are available!
Steve, I have nothing in my inbox from you.

I have a set of 4 used .060 - might be Jahns or Sunganni - no .060 rings in stock. I sent to your home email.

Be sure to check your oil line for blockage. You will either need to remove the hogs head and run a wire down and then pour some oil in the funnel and see if it comes out in front, or remove the timing gear to see if it comes out in front. Since you have the inspection plate off under the engine, you might be able to check it from under the car. An auxiliary oil pipe is also good insurance to get oil to the front of the engine.
Norm

all anyone has to do to check the oil line is to pull the right-front bolt from the inspection plate, put a catch pan under it and start the car. Oil should pour out of this hole pretty briskly. Any time you buy a "T", you should do this, and probably once a year after that, if you run cotton bands.

Keith- check the rod for pin alignment- the appearance of the thrust surfaces of the piston and the fact that the scuff marks are on the front/rear sides of the piston are an indication of a twisted conn rod.

Well Keith, look at it this way...even a BAD day of touring, is far better than a GOOD day of working!!

The rod looks bent in the photo.

What would lead to a bent rod in an engine in service?

Tim. Sometimes it takes days of working to rectify one bad day of touring. I am willing to take the chance
.
I think that lack of oil caused this problem. Not a broken ring

Art Mirtes

[quote="Art M" post_id=246936 time=1664914690
.
I think that lack of oil caused this problem. Not a broken ring

Art Mirtes
[/quote]

I agree. He even said the oil "was low".

Pat
Question: "What would lead to a bent rod in an engine in service?"
Possible answer: Accidentally starting the engine with the spark lever too far advanced.
Ron Patterson

You have the engine all apart? You are honing cylinders? Replacing all four pistons and rings .060? Straightening rods? I would think that would handle it.

Yup...
Taking up the rods, too. And will check #2 main too.
Got the head resurfaced today, too.

Looking good!

# 2 piston also looks scuffed. I'd suspect low oil level or some issue with the oil pipe. I'd want to make certain the stock oil pipe was 100% funtional and I'd want to add a good auxilliary oiler.

Restoring a Ford Faithful for installation.

Model T's don't do well with thick oil, especially when the engine is cold.

New pistons and rings arrived today!

That’s great now for the fun.

Good luck Keith! It seems funny that would happen after 10 years!