MTFCA Forum

What steering column items should be checked, other than the pitman arm and the steering bracket bushing? How are they checked?

One of the most important areas to check is around the top of the column tube and gearcase! Rivets often become loose, or break. And the column tube can often crack around the base of the gearcase, especially IF the rivets are even slightly loose! Overall condition of the gears, case, planetary gears and sun gear are important, along with the condition of the pins the planetary gears run on. It is rare, but I have seen the long steering column shaft worn beyond being safe to be used. Usually that happens near the middle of the shaft if water and corrosion mixes with the small bushing (not really even a bushing!) inside the firewall flange. Water and steel can form an abrasive paste that collects inside the column tube and cuts into the shaft where it cannot be seen unless the shaft is removed and inspected.

Just a few things for you to look over.

It is almost certain that your gearbox, levers and quadrant will be corroded due to being exposed to sweaty hands for almost a century and will need to be re nickel plated. In order to have your gearbox w/lid, quadrant and lever rods re-plated, you will need to remove the two rivets in order to take them apart to send off to the plater. Before sending the parts off you will need to order the two long rivets from Lang’s to have plated with everything else. Jim Patrick

I'm working on this part of my '26 coupe at the moment. Definitely will be rebushing the lower steering bracket and building up and machining lower end of steering shaft to address wear issues like you observed in another thread.

In addition to the critical safety-related wear issues others have identified in the steering gear case and upper end of the steering shaft, be sure to check the engagement of the 'long' planetary gear shaft with the radial slot at the bottom of the gear case along with the condition of the slot in the gear case. As you know, that slot and pin limit the rotational travel of the steering shaft and establish the 'lock to lock' rotation of steering wheel. There are a number of past posts discussing this and documenting dangerous situations where that pin/case were so worn or damaged that the pitman arm would go over center on tight turns of the steering wheel.

I purchased new stainless steel spark and throttle arms and a new steering gear case cover which resolved my rust and wear issues, yours may or may not need that. I'm going to paint, not plate the quadrant b/c it's tricky to find a local plater, and my car is for driving, not show. YMMV

FWIW, jb

The top of the column and gear case are in good condition. I am thinking of getting a new shaft, gears, etc. How difficult is it to replace these? Could someone describe the procedure? I am concerned about removing /replacing the rivets.

BLB27 wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 14, 2022 7:56 pm

The top of the column and gear case are in good condition. I am thinking of getting a new shaft, gears, etc. How difficult is it to replace these? Could someone describe the procedure? I am concerned about removing /replacing the rivets.

There are no rivets to remove when changing the shaft & gears.

I found how to disassemble the steering column etc., in the "Model T Ford Service Manual". I didn't think of it when I asked the question! :oops!

It can be helpful to 'measure' the total backlash (freeplay) in the steering system. This method adds all the play in the system, from the steering gearbox, column rivets, steering shaft bushing, pitman ball, linkage bushings, kingpins... This video shows my total backlash after systematically removing backlash component by component, through the whole system. What an improvement in on-road driving experience!

Bruce, did you get your steering shaft out of the column? I replaced mine due to severe wear in the pins and their holes.
One problem that I had was that the shaft was rusted inside the column shell. There was more rust there than in the exposed shaft under the hood. I had to pound the shaft out of the gearbox. I am certain that the gearbox was "reamed" by the rust. I didn't care since I was replacing the broken gearbox anyway.
If you decide to get a new shaft, you might consider pulling the old shaft up. If it jambs in the gearbox, cut the top of the shaft off and remove it from the bottom of the column. It's better to save the gearbox. Replacing it was not a fun job.