MTFCA Forum

This is the first laminated bow off the new jig
There are 8 x 2.5mm laminated all up. These were added in two lots of three and a final pair.

The bends are tight. There is just 3/8" flex away from the form, on one side only. Curious!

Since these were taken, I have used a 3/8" rounding bit to rout the edges of the bow. This liberated a small breakout on one side of one corner. It is under glue and clamping instill O can finish it off.

Allan from down under.

I wouldn't think the slight distance the wood sprang away from the form would be a problem. It might be because of uneven glue curing or just natural tension in the wood. Clamping the bow back in the form and applying some heat would probably eliminate it, if necessary. I wonder if the original bows were formed to their exact final shape before installation, or if they had some slight "spring" in them prior to installation. A little tension within the bow and socket assembley once installed might help prevent any rattles at the pivot points.

Nice work! I made a bow for my Overland the same way.

Very nice, Alan

thanks for sharing

The finished product. The longest single operation was shaping the tapered ends to go into the sockets. Perhaps I was too fussy about the fit

Allan from down under.

A perfect fit would not cause problems,whereas a poor fit probably would. A slight crown across the middle section of the bows, once installed, might be a good thing. It would prevent any tendency of the bows to sag in the middle and prevent any puddling of rainwater. Some "spring" in the assembled bows would help keep everything tight and rattle free.

Why go to all that work when they are already being made?

shipping costs?

simple desire?

there are plenty of people who restore cars, so why do it themselves?

Do your homework!

(just couldn't resist)

Thanks for posting this. I bet they will work great.
I steam bent some bows and glued them where the split out, so they are laminated too.
The best of both worlds.
Rich

I built a "Portland cutter" (aka one-horse open sleigh) nearly 50 years ago, and used this method to form the "S" curve of the runners. No problems in service ever since.

( although it really hasn't seen much use owing to the lack of snow some years, the over-diligence of snow removal from the roads and the death [from old age] of two horses trained to drive )

It's the perfect solution for reproducing steam-bent items in the home shop, and if attention is paid to the grain direction of the slats, it may actually be superior to a single, steam-bent member.

You could pull it with an ATV, or better yet, a T-based Moxiemobile

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 05, 2022 3:44 pm

You could pull it with an ATV, or better yet, a T-based Moxiemobile

You forget, I'm a "purist". Still would need snow, packed clean. Horses I got - just need some work in harness. Global warming, prolly never have snow again !

Larry, with our dollar at 60 US cents, and the prohibitive costs of shipping, it is not feasible to have one hood bow sent. Besides, the quality of some is suspect. It would take just as long to fit them to the sockets, and they may not match existing top. And, i would not have a ready made jig to make others. And, most Australian T's have Australian built bodies, and these vary form state to state.

Allan from down under.

Alan,

In many period texts on laminating there is a note to swap successive layers end for end and to turn them over in order to discourage a split or other weak spot from progressing beyond any one single layer. That's pretty obvious, but I notice some people don't do that, but it's a good idea.

I bet you already knew that.

Dick

Alan
What glue did you use?
Thank you
Jon

Titebond ultimate no 111 (3) It was recommended by my nephew. They use it to laminate boards before turning them into verandah posts. The bond is stronger than the timber it glues together.
Allan from down under.

Sounds like a great glue Alan. Waterproof except for immersion, a "proprietary polymer". Doubtless a great improvement!

FWIW, "original" Titebond was (is) an aliphatic resin, not waterproof, old white Elmer's is PVA (polyvinyl acetate). Both have been proven in stress tests to yield glue joints stronger than the parent wood.