MTFCA Forum

Hi Guys, I am looking at a 1926 touring car to buy. It does not have the Rocky Mountain brakes. Is it a big deal to put real brakes on this car. What would a kit like this cost. Thank you.

Lang's sells both the Rocky Mountain and sure stop systems for a 1926. I didn't see the rocky mountain brake pedal for a 1926 though. You may have to call and ask them about that or find one from another vendor. The Rocky Mountain is in my opinion easier to install but seem to require frequent adjustment to work well. The sure stop hydraulic brakes are harder to install, but function better. You can find the prices on the web site and make you decision.

The 26 and 27 are the easiest and least expensive cars on which to install Rocky Mountain Brakes. They work on the outside of the original drums. They do not stop quite as well as the larger drums which are attached to the rear wheels of the earlier cars. You will need a pedal with the attachment for the rod to the equalizer or weld on an extension to the original pedal. You will need the equalizer bar which mounts on the cross shaft for the parking brakes and the rods as well as the shoes.
If you want to put brakes on the front wheels, you will need to beef up the front axles because if you lock the brakes on the front wheels it can change the castor of the front wheels causing you to pull hard to one side or the other. Others have installed Hydrolic brakes, I have not, so cannot answer that question. Some people have also installed hydrolic disk brakes to the rear wheels. This conversion will need a disk welded on the parking brake drum. Those who have used them say they are very good. However, they don't look period correct.
Norm

I realize they'll never be confused for 1920ish brakes, but I absolutely love and depend upon my sure stop disc brakes. No adjustment required, work in reverse and when wet, about as good as you can get for a Model T. They aren't cheap but in my opinion, money well spent. If you want a good, safe car to tour in you can't go wrong. While you're at it, you might consider floating safety hubs. One more thing, if you don't know the condition of the rear end (like whether it has babbitt thrust washers or bronze) plan on tearing it down for inspection. I've helped on a number of cars this past summer and all required new axles and a couple had the dangerous babbitt thrust washers. One with the babbitt washers had the ring and pinion so torn up they had to be replaced. This was on a car described as "meticulously restored."

26-7's already have a stout lined parking brake shoe. The suppliers offer an equalizer bar that allows those internal shoes to activate as a service brake. I run big drum rear ends in 3 of my T's with e brake extensions to activate the brakes when extra braking is needed.
Of course, the lining must be maintained grease & oil free.

How this for a range of brake options??

I use the Rocky Mtn. Brakes and once set up right have not had to adjust them often. If you set them up so that the brake band is still operational the issue with reverse is no problem. Mine are set up so that with a little extra pressure on the brake pedal the brake band kicks in and stops the car just fine in reverse. I also lined the parking brake so I have all bases covered. I wouldn't be without them.

The way I set up the Rocky's is to adjust so the first brake to come on when I push the pedal is the Rocky. Most normal stopping is done with them. If I push hard, the transmission brake is applied, so I have both sets of brakes working together. With the parking brake I do it just the opposite. First the parking brake and then one more notch the Rocky brakes are applied. So going backward a hard push on the pedal will stop it backward and if that is not enough pulling on the parking brake. Normally, this will only be needed if one stops on a hill going uphill. Or if one kills the engine going uphill.
Norm

I have Rocky's on my 12 touring and sure stops on the 12 'pick up car.' I really like the peace of mind with the sure stop.

Russ T Fender wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 19, 2022 5:22 pm

I use the Rocky Mtn. Brakes and once set up right have not had to adjust them often. If you set them up so that the brake band is still operational the issue with reverse is no problem. Mine are set up so that with a little extra pressure on the brake pedal the brake band kicks in and stops the car just fine in reverse. I also lined the parking brake so I have all bases covered. I wouldn't be without them.

Ditto. My advice... "Don't leave home with out 'em"!!

Rocky Mountain didn't make a brake pedal. They had a simple clamp around the pedal, and a special bolt that went through it to hold it on plus a hole in the head for the rod to the equalizer.

Desert G :. Keep in mind that the 26-27's were improved with a wider transmission brake band and drum, and larger diameter emergency brake drums that introduced lined brake shoes.

Mr. Smith.
It depends on which version of Rocky Mountain brakes you refer to. I have a set on my first T which are called AC brakes. I bought those new about 1990. The Rocky Mountain Brakes you can buy from Temecula are identical except they have printed Rocky Mountain. I have been told that the earlier Rocky Mountain Brakes were different from those being sold today. The ones called AC have a tab welded on the Ford brake pedal, and the later ones have a new pedal which I bought at Temecula That way you can kill two birds with one stone. You get a new pedal with the cam new for the transmission brake and the tab built in for the auxiliary brakes.
Norm