MTFCA Forum

Posted: **Mon Dec 05, 2022 9:00 pm**

I will give it ago. I’ve been rebuilding my steering column. Disassembled, removed rust and paint. Primed good parts, refurbished the steering shaft, ordered some parts and starting the re assembly. I will be working on re-bushing the steering bracket this week. Bucking some rivets and hopefully slapping on some black paint.

Posted: **Tue Dec 06, 2022 4:24 am**

I left the turn signal running when I parked Henrietta. Days later, the Optima red top was flatter than a pancake. My smart chargers were all too smart to recognise there was a battery in the system when I hooked them up. I needed a dumb charger. My son hooked up an ac/dc power supply to get something into the battery, so that the chargers would recognise the battery. On trickle charge, it is almost there after two days! Fortunately none of the smoke got out of the electrical system.

Allan from down under.

Posted: **Tue Dec 06, 2022 8:43 am**

Allan wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 06, 2022 4:24 am
I left the turn signal running when I parked Henrietta. Days later, the Optima red top was flatter than a pancake.

Allan, I solved that problem on my Runabout by installing a beeper on the turn signal circuit. I can hear it over the noise and vibration while driving. I must admit that I need to ask my dad if he can hear it without his hearing aid. I wager that he can.

Posted: **Tue Dec 06, 2022 10:25 am**

Just this so far. Just warming up....

https://youtu.be/5THKk7XCtuE

Posted: **Tue Dec 06, 2022 11:05 am**

: Getting engine ready for installation!

Posted: **Tue Dec 06, 2022 1:51 pm**

I just completed the annual maintenance on the waterpump. It is ready for another touring season next year.
Art Mirtes

Posted: **Tue Dec 06, 2022 3:07 pm**

Les Schubert wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 06, 2022 11:05 am

629C4A85-5FD6-40BC-B0AD-F937CD3DA636.jpeg

Les i would like to know more!

Posted: **Tue Dec 06, 2022 5:32 pm**

Pressure oiled counter balanced crank
Datsun B210 oil pump
Pruss head
Stipe cam
Marvel Schebler carb on home made manifold
Borg Warner T35 automatic from a 68 Cortina
Cast aluminum adapter by me (I no longer have the pattern)

Posted: **Thu Dec 08, 2022 12:46 pm**

I changed the oil - on camera for your entertainment - for what I am pretty sure is the first time - 14 years later. Anyone care to guess what I found?

https://youtu.be/zX94LINIYHk

Posted: **Fri Dec 09, 2022 7:15 pm**

Helping an 87 year old new model T owner get his car roadworthy. Today we replaced the front spring shackle bushings using a Steve Jelf Press. Boy-o-boy, the new budget shackles made from studs pressed on a plate are a POS, but all he could get.

: jelfpress.jpg (38.97 KiB) Viewed 11010 times

Posted: **Fri Dec 09, 2022 8:55 pm**

Jeff

hold out for better shackles!

I've seen them wear out crazy fast, especially if the knurling in the bar fails...that bar will stretch at the hole like salt water taffy.

Posted: **Fri Dec 09, 2022 10:21 pm**

I left the turn signal on in my 14 runabout and my shoulder was sore for days.

Andy

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 8:01 am**

Jeff, check the fit of a new set of bushings (prior to reaming) on his old shackles. Sometimes the undersize of unreamed bushings will make up for the wear in old shackles, resulting in a good fit.

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 10:11 am**

I did try the old shackles, they are worn, just a little more than I would prefer to use. He bought the crapy ones and wanted to use them, so I used them. We are keeping the old ones as a backup plan.

Anybody use the budget shackles and find them OK?

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 10:15 am**

They work until one side (apparently) starts to lock up in the bushing (lack of oil?) and then the knurling fails and the strap's hole elongates.

Several have been shown on the forum over the years

I think the key is to keep them well-serviced

Here's Rich Eagles tribute to them: viewtopic.php?t=5264

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 10:33 am**

You're not likely to get too much oil on Model T chassis parts, or to oil them too often, especially if you drive off pavement or in rain or mud.

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 11:29 am**

Didn't intend to hijack this thread so I have posted a new topic "Budget Spring Shackles". Please post any comments there.

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 11:37 am**

I have made the sad decision to sell my T this year (2023). The bride passed away, and I no longer have her to accompany me on a drive. I have found that solo just isn't the fun that we had when she would join me.

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 11:45 am**

John

so awful to hear that. Please accept my condolences.

and finally, my mom passed away some years ago and my dad felt similarly. After some time, he healed to the point to where his 2 "T"s now provide enjoyment on particularly long days. He's 91 now and enjoys a 15 minute drive every couple days, and often just sits in the garage enjoying the view. If it is not a financial liability, why not consider delaying your decision and see if it makes the same sense to you 12 months from now.

regards

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 12:25 pm**

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 10, 2022 11:45 am
John

so awful to hear that. Please accept my condolences.

and finally, my mom passed away some years ago and my dad felt similarly. After some time, he healed to the point to where his 2 "T"s now provide enjoyment on particularly long days. He's 91 now and enjoys a 15 minute drive every couple days, and often just sits in the garage enjoying the view. If it is not a financial liability, why not consider delaying your decision and see if it makes the same sense to you 12 months from now.

regards

Very good advice. Wait a year or more till you can make a rational decision.
I would be devastated also if my wife of 37 years was gone.
FWIW I have seen several widows still driving & enjoying the family T.
Sorry for your loss.

Posted: **Sat Dec 10, 2022 4:09 pm**

I received my rebuilt wheels from Stutzman in December for my 1912 Roadster. Dang, he sure does nice work and could possibly be the best value in the restoration business.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 2:24 pm**

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 10, 2022 11:45 am
John

so awful to hear that. Please accept my condolences.

and finally, my mom passed away some years ago and my dad felt similarly. After some time, he healed to the point to where his 2 "T"s now provide enjoyment on particularly long days. He's 91 now and enjoys a 15 minute drive every couple days, and often just sits in the garage enjoying the view. If it is not a financial liability, why not consider delaying your decision and see if it makes the same sense to you 12 months from now.

regards

I don't know that I'll wait a full year, but I'm not going to be impulsive either. My T is an excellent reliable driver, and it would be very hard to get one as good if I later realize that I have made a mistake. I don't take anything but a credit card and my triple A card when I take it out for a ride. It's only let me down once and it was an avoidable problem that won't happen again as long as I own it.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 2:26 pm**

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 10, 2022 12:25 pm

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 10, 2022 11:45 am
John

so awful to hear that. Please accept my condolences.

and finally, my mom passed away some years ago and my dad felt similarly. After some time, he healed to the point to where his 2 "T"s now provide enjoyment on particularly long days. He's 91 now and enjoys a 15 minute drive every couple days, and often just sits in the garage enjoying the view. If it is not a financial liability, why not consider delaying your decision and see if it makes the same sense to you 12 months from now.

regards
Very good advice. Wait a year or more till you can make a rational decision.
I would be devastated also if my wife of 37 years was gone.
FWIW I have seen several widows still driving & enjoying the family T.
Sorry for your loss.

I was married to my first wife for 52. At my age I doubt that there will be a second.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 3:09 pm**

John,
I'm in my 51st year of marriage and can appreciate your loss. I don't know what I would do in your shoes. I will say this, I bet you have many, many friends in the Model T community. Don't cut yourself off from them. At such times our friends can be a great help and comfort. Surely your wife would not want you to withdraw from life.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 5:49 pm**

My condolences too. By all means, give it some time. Things often get brighter.
Today I bit the bullet and rescued the battery from the snowbound '14. I have left too many in the cars without charging during the winter and they died. I charged 3 of them today and they reached full charge quickly.

Rich

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 9:28 pm**

What we did today was a big step forward in the restoration of my 1927 coupe. We installed the rear curtain, the headliner, and two layers of the top. The last layer (the vinyl) will be next.

I had never installed any upholstery, so this was sort of a scary endeavor! My son and a friend helped, and I am pleased with the results. The wood bows were made for me be Jeff Humble and the upholstery was from Classtique (Thanks Jeff and Mike).

These are the first five photos, and then I will post five more.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 9:38 pm**

Five more.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 9:47 pm**

One last one.

Posted: **Sun Dec 11, 2022 9:56 pm**

Before and after.

Posted: **Mon Dec 12, 2022 7:10 am**

I put my '23 Touring on four wheel dollies, the equivalent of a hospital bed since it's currently an invalid. The saga continues but I won't get into that right now. Surprisingly difficult to push it around on my smooth shop floor with the dollies. I got it pushed out of the way but it wasn't the walk in the park that I expected. The wheel dollies are very robust with good casters. What gives?

Posted: **Mon Dec 12, 2022 1:08 pm**

Nice work on the interior.

Posted: **Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:16 pm**

Started the engine series on The Speedster Project. Follow along if you like!

https://youtu.be/s3mVBXUq7XY

Posted: **Tue Dec 13, 2022 3:40 pm**

I turned this 1912 PWOS (Piece of Shhhh..... Wonderful Old Stock):

Into this 1912 PWOS:

Trying to fix all the wood beetle holes, rot, manufacturing (meh, good'nuffs), without totally ripping it apart and replacing all wood.
The seat frame on one side was 1/2'' off from the other side. All original...

I really want to replace all wood... but, then it wouldn't be so original.

Posted: **Tue Dec 13, 2022 4:31 pm**

Michael

you have the start of a really wonderful car! Is that from Don Elis?

Posted: **Tue Dec 13, 2022 4:51 pm**

Yes, it is wonderful. What a treat to see the original body and the wood the way it was. Those things are absolutely fantastic.
Thanks for the chance to see them.
Best of luck with the progress.
Rich

Posted: **Tue Dec 13, 2022 4:59 pm**

Yes, I got this from Don Ellis. Squirrel nuts and all…

Posted: **Tue Dec 13, 2022 5:11 pm**

Jacked up and tucked up until the spring!

Posted: **Tue Dec 13, 2022 10:08 pm**

I'd like to find a set of those rear fender irons as shown on Don Ellis' Torpedo body, that mount to the body.

Posted: **Wed Dec 14, 2022 6:49 am**

There are a couple of pairs of irons on Ebay, just search for "model t ford fender irons".

Posted: **Tue Dec 20, 2022 5:49 am**

I just finshed the rebuild of the four wheels for the 1911 Maxwell.

Posted: **Tue Dec 20, 2022 5:51 am**

Here the Maxwell.

Merry Christmas

Andre
Belgium

Posted: **Tue Dec 20, 2022 9:22 am**

Beautiful.
Thanks for posting it.
Rich

Posted: **Tue Dec 20, 2022 9:53 am**

I did this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZ24Ghd1kSk
and more - got another lined up for next monday. Oh what I found.... !

Posted: **Tue Dec 20, 2022 5:46 pm**

I have been able to rebabbit Model T main bearings for some years now, but I thought I would try my hand at connecting rods. I made a jig for boring the rods on a milling machine (based on a set of jigs a good friend of mine had made up for his own use). I used one of the commercially available molds to pour the rod and the cap separately. I mounted the rod in the jig and used the DRO on the mill to set the center to center distance between the piston pin and the middle of the large end bearing to 7 inches. The Ford factory drawing for the connecting rod showed that Ford did not use shims between the rod and the cap, but the drawing also called for oil grooves to be broached on each side of the rod at the joint between the rod and the caps. I have no good way to broach the babbitt the way Ford did, so I used a pack of 1/32” shims between the rod and the cap on each side to substitute for the groove.

The boring head on my mill produces a very nice surface finish when the quill travel is set on its finest feed (.0015/Revolution). Once I got to the ballpark of the final size, I took very small incremental cuts until I reached the desired final size, in this case .010 under.

With the bore finished to size I used a KR Wilson bearing facing tool to cut the radius on each side of the bearing and to narrow the side to side width of the babbitt to 1.490 which is .010” less than the width of a crankshaft rod journal.

I am satisfied with the way this rod came out, and it was an interesting project, but I can say that after doing all the work necessary to complete one rod that paying $90 apiece for rebabbitted rods from Lang’s is a bargain.

Respectfully submitted,

Trent Boggess

Posted: **Wed Dec 21, 2022 10:45 am**

Yes, purchasing is cheap but you can control the quality when you do it yourself. If you have a ground crank, you may want a wider side to side dimension. I haven't been thrilled with the rods coming fom the suppliers for a couple reasons. Poorly cut radii for one, inconsistent side to side dimensions for another.

Posted: **Fri Dec 23, 2022 10:51 pm**

My major accomplishment today was making a couple of casting/freeze plugs to go in my box of spare hardware under the seat. You have to grind the edges a little to make them fit in the hole. Better to do that in the shop than out on the road.

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 6:07 am**

So Steve, are those worth two plug nickles?

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 6:33 am**

I really liked the using of nickles for freeze plugs and made a set. I didn't care for the thickness of the nickles and was afraid of cracking the thin edge of the block when setting them so I chickened out and used the thinner brass ones. bobt

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 1:08 pm**

I didn't care for the thickness of the nickles and was afraid of cracking the thin edge of the block when setting them so I chickened out and used the thinner brass ones.

If the steel ones were that thick I would worry about them breaking something, but nickel is a softer material. It has never been a problem in that way for me. I do use Ultra-Black behind them. Old time Permatex #2 is not good in that application.

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 1:55 pm**

TrentB wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 20, 2022 5:46 pm
I have been able to rebabbit Model T main bearings for some years now, but I thought I would try my hand at connecting rods. I made a jig for boring the rods on a milling machine (based on a set of jigs a good friend of mine had made up for his own use). I used one of the commercially available molds to pour the rod and the cap separately. I mounted the rod in the jig and used the DRO on the mill to set the center to center distance between the piston pin and the middle of the large end bearing to 7 inches. The Ford factory drawing for the connecting rod showed that Ford did not use shims between the rod and the cap, but the drawing also called for oil grooves to be broached on each side of the rod at the joint between the rod and the caps. I have no good way to broach the babbitt the way Ford did, so I used a pack of 1/32” shims between the rod and the cap on each side to substitute for the groove.

The boring head on my mill produces a very nice surface finish when the quill travel is set on its finest feed (.0015/Revolution). Once I got to the ballpark of the final size, I took very small incremental cuts until I reached the desired final size, in this case .010 under.

With the bore finished to size I used a KR Wilson bearing facing tool to cut the radius on each side of the bearing and to narrow the side to side width of the babbitt to 1.490 which is .010” less than the width of a crankshaft rod journal.

I am satisfied with the way this rod came out, and it was an interesting project, but I can say that after doing all the work necessary to complete one rod that paying $90 apiece for rebabbitted rods from Lang’s is a bargain.

Respectfully submitted,

Trent Boggess

Trent,

It hurt a little bit to see that con rod in your vise. Did you check for bend & twist afterwards?

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 3:12 pm**

I've been restoring a 1913 coil box and coils for a touring car project. The box I started with had two correct coils and I found two others from separate sources on eBay. I replaced the capacitors and points before repotting the boxes with type III asphalt per Ron Patterson's suggestion from previous postings. I'm also working on (or have in the queue) restoration of coil boxes and coils that include a Kingston 4200 for a August 1909 Tourabout, 1910 Kingston for a touring car, Heinze for a May 1911 touring car, and KW red brass top coils for a January 1915 Coupelet. Dr. Larry Azevedo is helping me with the testing and adjustments as he has the equipment and knowledge to analyze the conventional sized coils, like the red brass top ones, but also the coils that don't fit in his ECCT. The Tin Lizzies of Albuquerque, and me especially, are very lucky to have Larry as an expert and generous resource!

Mark Wing
Albuquerque, NM

: 1913 coil box as acquired

: The lid still has its original label

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 4:30 pm**

I took the roadster for a spin, I think I was lucky to get home. She gradually started shaking until it was barely drivable. Fires on all 4 and shakes at all speeds. Vibrates even when stationary .... Methinks an issue in the flywheel or transmission ....

It will have to wait for March next year before we can unbutton it and see what is going on (booked up with other things till then).

Oh well, no summer motoring for me this year

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 4:44 pm**

Adrian ..... Find someone to electrically calibrate your coils for balanced firing...... After reading comments from Mr. Karvaly and Mr. Conger below, you can have someone electrically calibrate your coils for balanced firing with a HCCT, ECCT, or even Mr.Regan's coil tester.... just need to rely on the operator.

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:34 pm**

Moxie26 wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 24, 2022 4:44 pm
Adrian ..... Find someone to electrically calibrate your coils for balanced firing.

Thats with an ECCT. Your coils may not be firing @ the same time for each cylinder. If far enough off, could account for the roughness.

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:39 pm**

A Whiteman wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 24, 2022 4:30 pm
I took the roadster for a spin, I think I was lucky to get home. She gradually started shaking until it was barely drivable. Fires on all 4 and shakes at all speeds. Vibrates even when stationary .... Methinks an issue in the flywheel or transmission ....

It will have to wait for March next year before we can unbutton it and see what is going on (booked up with other things till then).

Oh well, no summer motoring for me this year

"gradually got worse" Only thig comes to mind, other than ignition, would be a flywheel coming loose? You can check thru the lower crank case cover. Confirm timer condition, plugs & coils firing. Short out one cylinder @ a time.

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:46 pm**

A guy has been driving his TT for going on 5+ years and appears to have at least a working knowledge of what is "right" and what is not

while he's driving, his truck s-l-o-w-l-y starts shaking and finally shaking so badly that it is nearly undriveable

so, apparently his coils, some or all of which, s-l-o-w-l-y went out of adjustment, and caused shaking so badly that the car became nearly undriveable

and the OBVIOUS solution is to retime the coils with a ECCT

does that thing fix flats, too?

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:56 pm**

Ignition seems more reasonable than all the flywheel bolts "slowly" all loosening up during one drive.
I would start my diagnostics with the easy stuff first, even if wrong. Process of elimination.
Anyway this is an interesting case. I look forward to the seeing the real answer.

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 7:17 pm**

[/quote]
Trent,

It hurt a little bit to see that con rod in your vise. Did you check for bend & twist afterwards?
[/quote]

Jerry,

The next step is to straighten the rebabbitted rod:

Once all the rods have been straightened, the last step before assembly is weighing and balancing the rods.

Respectfully Submitted,

Trent Boggess

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2022 7:35 pm**

If you are not hearing unusual mechanical sounds or experiencing transmission issues, I'd check the timer to coil box wiring for issues. In fact, I'd check it anyway, since it's easy and inexpensive to inspect.

Posted: **Sun Dec 25, 2022 5:06 am**

Thanks for the suggestions and ideas. Yes, I have had experienced driving with one cylinder out, timing askew and coils not working. This is not like those experiences.

Luke has kindly used my coils for testing as part of his timer project, and another friend has run them through an old hand crank tester as well.

Checking timer and shorting out each plug is number one on the check list. Not those items either.

"gradually got worse" Only thing comes to mind, other than ignition, would be a flywheel coming loose? You can check thru the lower crank case cover. Confirm timer condition, plugs & coils firing. Short out one cylinder @ a time.

The vibration 'feels' mechanical, and 'feels' transmission linked. A loose triple gear pin maybe, a loose triple gear bush, a chip off a drum maybe?, A loose magnet? something else worked loose? maybe the universal joint is worn out?

I will let you know how we get on once we get to pull the covers and have a look. In the mean time, better to be safe and not drive any further.

Thanks again for your thoughts and wishing all a happy Christmas and New Year break,

Posted: **Sun Dec 25, 2022 11:04 am**

I'd think that a roadster morphing into a TT during the course of a drive would be unsettling, regardless of what caused the transformation. Did you by any chance have a can of spinach aboard?

Posted: **Wed Dec 28, 2022 9:20 pm**

TrentB wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 24, 2022 7:17 pm

Trent,

It hurt a little bit to see that con rod in your vise. Did you check for bend & twist afterwards?
[/quote]

Jerry,

The next step is to straighten the rebabbitted rod:

8BFFC01D-A941-4D3C-B95A-7F820B306367.jpeg

7A0EE6B6-7CC6-46E2-A260-1C93EC13ACED.jpeg

EAFEA6DC-DCBE-4F89-8718-6B8C73D68690.jpeg

Once all the rods have been straightened, the last step before assembly is weighing and balancing the rods.

Respectfully Submitted,

Trent Boggess
[/quote]

Awesome Trent! Nice equipment! Thanks for the pics.

Posted: **Wed Dec 28, 2022 11:20 pm**

1914 roadster,

Engine out, installing new rods, adjustable lifters and valves, new timing gears, starter mag ring, rebush transmission, new bands, new clutch spring, new Z aluminum head and rebuilt straight thru Holly carb. Also installing a new gear reduction starter and converting to 12 volts.

Next will be disc brakes.

That should keep me out of the pool hall and away from wild women!!!!!

fronty boy.

Posted: **Fri Dec 30, 2022 4:55 pm**

I was able to start my Runabout today for the first time in months. Several small electrical problems were fixed. I was shocked (sorry, poor choice of words) when I noticed that my generator was working again. I replaced a broken Bendix spring and noticed that my starter has about 3/16" of fore/aft thrust in the shaft. I guess, that will be my next project.

Posted: **Fri Dec 30, 2022 11:59 pm**

My speedometer wasn't returning all the way to 0, so I advanced the spring about ⅛" and that cured it. I hope I didn't hurt its accuracy any.

Posted: **Sat Dec 31, 2022 9:50 am**

It may affect accuracy if friction was causing it not to zero. I would think that the spring ought to be less distorted and that it shouldn't touch anything except at the ends. If it's accurate to within 5 to 8 % from 5 MPH to 35 MPH, that's great.

Posted: **Sat Dec 31, 2022 11:29 am**

It may affect accuracy if friction was causing it not to zero.

Nope, no drag on the speed drum. I suppose the spring lost a little springiness in the course of 106 years. If the speedometer has lost a mile or two, no problem. At 35 mph 5% is 1.75. It has no effect on the odometer.

Posted: **Sat Dec 31, 2022 1:51 pm**

Not an expert here, but as I understand how the thing works, there are magnetic fingers inside the speed drum that move the drum magnetically. So adding more spring tension to the drum will require more magnetism to show accurate speed.(if the reading was accurate before) The magnetized fingers would need to be slightly closer to the drum to recalibrate(speed up the drum) without touching. Or if weakly magnetically charged, re magnetized.

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