MTFCA Forum

Is there anyone in here that is competent with Vectric Aspire cnc software or able to draw STL files? I've hit a wall and not too proud to ask for help. I just re-drew the box in Aspire and spent the last half of my time out there staring at the screen wondering what the bext way to get the "slots" and wire passages cut FIRST - while it's still in the machine. I had to walk away again. The goal is to either 3d print or router-out a coilbox panel by panel. Anyone in here able to help me, toss files back and forth, etc..?

Here's my last attempt - "allowance" was too tight on top of my mis-judging the size of the inside of the assembled box.

https://youtu.be/_xXkFma33lk

Tim,
My suggestion is to start over. You need to make the box about 1/4 inch deeper front to back, the coil contacts need about 1/8" on the back side of the coils. You may be cutting it a bit close, side to side the coils only need to fit, front to back you are going to have to add a bit more.
I am not sure what your plans are but if you are looking a producing a bunch of these coil boxes you will certainly be able to reproduce them in large numbers. If you are building only one for the speedster, find someone with a router and a dovetail/fingerjoint jig and knows how to use it. It should be only about an hour project.
To save your time, glue up the box, (it is a very nice looking box) and sell it to someone building a speedster and running a distributor. Just a thought.
Keep up the good work and remember the original coil box was made with a folding wooden ruler and a gang saw.
Just my thoughts on how to make a naked cat,
Kevin

I have the tools and skills to make one "the old way" - that wasn't the goal. "Tech meets T". IDK if I will make more than one for this build, but if I get it right, that option will be open to hit "play" and have another one come off the machine! 1/4".... thanks - I will add that. I was thinking this morning, do I even need the grooves.... The button contacts don't even slide into them, they are reliefs for the springs.... I'm going to cut another out of plywood (not that it's cheaper these days) and pencil in the grooves and holes to help me see it clearer. Great idea for the old one - a $200 glove box... You'd be shocked at what wood goes for around here these days.. Insane. Beats throwing it out I guess!

Cant help you with the computer program, but maybe with the woodworking aspect. There are conventional methods for woodworking that high tech does not change. The conventional method to make a box using finger joints is for end grain joining with finger joints, its one of the strongest joints for end grain, but an inferior joint for anywhere else such as across the grain or along the grain. The 4 side panels should have the finger joints to the sides only. The bottom panel could be either rabbeted to float in a groove on the inside of the side panels, or, glued directly to the bottom of the box. For the top panel it should be glued directly to the top of the box (no fingers). They have done it this way commercially for over 160 years. Joining the top this way will also hide the grooves you need to cut in the front panel for the contacts. Good luck, looks like a fun project.

A good instructional lesson I learned the hard way a long time ago (well, maybe a time or two since); Measure Twice, Cut Once!

OK on reducing front and back thickness, that's a possible solution. BUT, has to be done selectively routed out for the coil area only. Don't thin the entire panel or you'll wind up with the same problem!

Now I usually build up a 3D model of all the parts to check form and fit before spending a lot of time, effort and money on building a prototype.

Tim, I sent you a PM with my email so that we can correspond outside of the forum.