Installing Pistons
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Topic author - Posts: 61
- Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2022 8:26 am
- First Name: William
- Last Name: Hallada
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Medel T Coupe
- Location: Barnesville, GA
Installing Pistons
New to Model T engine assembly. I have rebuilt other engines in the past and had to align timing marks on the cam and crank gears.
I am in the process of doing a valve job and putting new rings on the pistons for my '26 Coupe. Have read and watched
some videos and it seems that after the valves were installed they just put the pistons in. Did I miss
something where possibly number one valves have to be in a certain position to get the piston at TDC.
I have a Model T service manual and did not find an explanation in there either.
Any help would be appreciated.
I am in the process of doing a valve job and putting new rings on the pistons for my '26 Coupe. Have read and watched
some videos and it seems that after the valves were installed they just put the pistons in. Did I miss
something where possibly number one valves have to be in a certain position to get the piston at TDC.
I have a Model T service manual and did not find an explanation in there either.
Any help would be appreciated.
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- Posts: 6428
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Installing Pistons
align timing marks on crank/cam and you're done
in-line 4 engines are pretty straight forward
in-line 4 engines are pretty straight forward
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
- MTFCA Number: 28924
Re: Installing Pistons
Yes it’s pretty straight forward. When the timing marks on the cam gear and the crankshaft gear are in line it works itself out whether you have the valves or pistons installed or not. Always worked for me.
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2019 2:01 pm
- First Name: Chris
- Last Name: Levi
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 touring 1927 roadster
- Location: Boulder, Co.
- Board Member Since: 2017
Re: Installing Pistons
Perhaps worth mentioning here- it does not relate to valve timing but the pistons/pins and connecting rods do have a specific orientation when mounted in the bores and on the crank, in relation to “front and back” or “cam side/not cam side” of the engine.
Some day I will learn to include a link to another thread, in the meantime search “piston orientation, mtfca” for several threads if you are not already aware. -Chris, in Boulder
Some day I will learn to include a link to another thread, in the meantime search “piston orientation, mtfca” for several threads if you are not already aware. -Chris, in Boulder
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- Posts: 191
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:42 pm
- First Name: Noel
- Last Name: Chicoine
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1920 roadster, 1923 Touring, 1926 Coupe
- Location: Pierre, South Dakota
- MTFCA Number: 25420
- MTFCI Number: 22686
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Installing Pistons
William,
FYI, if your connecting rod bolts are questionable after dozens of removals in the past 100 years, they may be replaced with small block Chevy rod bolts. The knurling needs to be filed or ground down but that's easy in a drill press or lathe. Make sure you replace all of them as they weigh 9 grams less (or more, I don't remember) than a stock T nut-bolt-cotter combination. They also don't need the cotters and torque at about 45 ft/lbs. Depending on how many shims are left, the additional torque may take up 1-2 thousandths of your clearance at the crank. Good luck.
FYI, if your connecting rod bolts are questionable after dozens of removals in the past 100 years, they may be replaced with small block Chevy rod bolts. The knurling needs to be filed or ground down but that's easy in a drill press or lathe. Make sure you replace all of them as they weigh 9 grams less (or more, I don't remember) than a stock T nut-bolt-cotter combination. They also don't need the cotters and torque at about 45 ft/lbs. Depending on how many shims are left, the additional torque may take up 1-2 thousandths of your clearance at the crank. Good luck.
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- Posts: 1093
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:24 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Govoni
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
- MTFCA Number: 32331
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Installing Pistons
True the rods have to be pointing to the cam shaft on the power stroke? Someone please chime in
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- Posts: 6428
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- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Installing Pistons
wrist pin bolts are on the camshaft side on the power stroke...(and all other strokes as well )
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- Posts: 1048
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:53 am
- First Name: Terry
- Last Name: Woods
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Model T coupe, 1926 4 door sedan
- Location: Cibolo (San Antonio), TX
- MTFCI Number: 20180
Re: Installing Pistons
Expansion slot in aluminum piston goes toward camshaft side; am I correct, or do I have it backwards.
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- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: van Ekeren
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 touring, 1916 pick-up, 1924 coupe, 1926 touring, 1927 touring
- Location: Rosedale Vic Australia
Re: Installing Pistons
Slot go's on the other side of the cam on a T engine, some get confused on which side of the bore is the power thrust, which is the cam side. There is an arrow on the top that should point to the front of an engine.