MTFCA Forum

Which height switch would be correct for the TT?

Either one would work with a starter button extension. I have never seen such a short starter button like the one on the right. It looks like it may have been shortened by a previous owner for a reason only known to him. The only type I have ever seen is the longer version on the left, which is like the length of the ones sold by the Model T suppliers which still requires the below pictured extension to allow it to protrude through the floor. Jim Patrick

The correct height is measured by you pressing down on the switch and making contact with a minimal amount of the switch post above the floor board. There is less than a 1/2inch of travel for it to make contact. Two things damage these things, to large a hole for the switch tube and/or to tall a switch tube above the floor board. What these things cause is for the switch tube to be pushed forward loosening the connection to the base. Or making contact with the forward contact and not both inside the housing. The switch is designed to pushed straight down so keep it straight up & down. So using the extension that Jim shows, pick the switch with the least height above the floor.

It is possible that the previous owner shortened the button in order to move the contacts closer together making it more sensitive so that the button didn’t need to travel so far before making contact. Jim Patrick

Not really a high jack as it is related, is there some kind of trick to keeping that extension from turning sideways and getting caty wampous in the hole in the floor board? The splits seems to spread apart on mine and it gets loose and is annoying.

tdump wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 07, 2023 10:17 pm

Not really a high jack as it is related, is there some kind of trick to keeping that extension from turning sideways and getting caty wampous in the hole in the floor board? The splits seems to spread apart on mine and it gets loose and is annoying.

What I have noticed in issues with starter switches is that usually they are mounted to high above the floor. Once the internal contacts are made there needs to be a way to stop the extension from sliding down further on the switch tube - that's the floor. Close the splits with a worm gear hose clamp

Good info on the starter switch protrusion thru the floor. Ill make a note for assembly. In looking at both switches, it doesn't appear that the short switch has ever been modified. The tabs are untouched. The tabs on the long switch do in fact look like they have been pried up and closed again. Both switches have the same travel of about 3/16”.

TRDx82, I see your contact terminals are open and not enclosed like mine. Is that “normal”?

One way to prevent issues with a stock starter switch is to connect a solenoid in parallel with the stock switch, using quality appropriate gauge cables. Use a 6 volt, internally grounded Ford-style starter solenoid mounted under the floor near the stock switch. Run a single insulated wire to one terminal on a 2 terminal starter button mounted where ever convenient. Connect the other terminal on the starter button to a source of battery current. With this arrangement, either the stock switch or the starter button will activate the starter.

The picture I posted is just one I have on file, not mine. I gave up on the all the new repro switches. Glad you recognize the protrusion issue, to high and your bending the bracket or something else. Then there is the tendency to stomp even harder on it when the engine doesn't start. Don't mess with the tabs that hold the cover to the plate, they'll brake off.
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I also agree with Pat's set-up. It will also preserve the old switch's contacts as well and had an element of safety. Remember to that these old switches aren't water proof and are located in the open. I'll be using a just a button & solenoid, button to be on left side of on my dash. Still looking for some gauges. Dash is 1926 Dodge

The "bend-over" tab style of switches can be restored - one HAS to anneal the tabs prior to bending is all !

I agree that annealing steel before bending will allow you to easily bend it without breaking, but not in this case, since annealing the tabs on a starter switch, so close to the insulating washers, which are flammable, can destroy the fiber washers and thus, the switch. Jim Patrick

jiminbartow wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 08, 2023 1:28 pm

I agree that annealing steel before bending will allow you to easily bend it without breaking, but not in this case, since annealing the tabs on a starter switch, so close to the insulating washers, which are flammable, can destroy the fiber washers and thus, the switch. Jim Patrick

It can be done with a small hot focused oxy/acetylene flame.
Even if the tabs get broken, a small spot of bead with a wire welder will secure the cover.
If you need to open the switch up after restoring the contacts with in the following 50+ years, the beads can be ground off.
Either way, you are WAY ahead over a repop switch.

I rebuild original starter switches and I've not destroyed any insulating washers yet - they're the same washer that the starter post takes !

Ditto on the solenoid to save the original switch,use original holes somewhere on the frame to mount it and the next person can put it right back stock without damage. On my pickup the solenoid is mounted to 2 of the steering column bolts, the speedster I am building ,it is mounted on the frame under the floor,out of site.

If you introduce a solenoid into the system, and are on a tour where failure would put a dent into your day, carry a spare. When it finally fails, you will likely be the only one in the group with that exact solenoid and if so, no one will be able to loan you a replacement. This advice goes with any mission-critical part which is not stock. On a decent size tour, nearly any stock part which might fail, will be in someone's trailer available for you to buy or borrow. Not so with non-T parts. The "T"s survival rate into the 21 Century is a testament toward it's robust and minimalist design.

There's a reason some folks rebuild starter switches: after 80 years of use, they need rejuvenating to go another 80 years. Putting in a solenoid just seems like cheating for no gain Just my opinion; do whatever floats yer boat.

While you're working on the starting system, make sure your cables are all proper gauge for 6V and after that, consider either rebuilding or buying a rebuilt starter if it does not turn the engine over BRISKLY. Unnecessarily large current to a lame starter is one of the main causes of lowered life in a starter switch and it won't make a solenoid feel too good either.

Dragging starters abuse starter switches, batteries, generators, cables, and peoples' patience.