MTFCA Forum

Are there any tie rod or drag link issues when using a dropped front axle?
Will an 8 leaf front spring will be suitable?
I will be using a T engine, 'A' crank, Fronty head. I forget the model, but not exotic. This setup should be a little heavier than a stock T engine.
What are the simple methods for dropping the rear to match the front? Z-ing the frame, Brackets?
If I Z the frame, do I add channel to maintain stock wheelbase or shorten driveshaft, etc?

I'm just getting started and thought some input from folks who have "been there, done that" might save me some pain and suffering.
Thanks .

Mike Russell
Missouri

I would recommend changing out to a different steering box and not retaining the stock T steering. Dropping the rear can be done a few different ways and some can work with certain body styles and not with others. Having said this here's what I did. The front can be much easier to dial in than the rear as you can play with it up and down depending on those little bits (later spring, later spindles, chevy spindles, inverted eye etc) where you can gain or lose a half inch-inch. I opted for a rear Z but not massive making up the rest of the drop with a "bent" spring. On the front I used similar to a laurel bracket but allowing for a 4 link setup. The drop in the rear is "set" so as its assembled and weighted down I will be able to play with the front to bring it up or down so it all lays right without looking like a massive drop.

Mike,

A lot has to do with year Model,ie, brass era, low radiator, high radiator, and seat position with windshield.

There are so many variables in Speedsters. Number one is making it safe with the modifications. Steering geometry when lowering or raking the front will be your first obstacle but not difficult. 8 leaves is not necessary 7 should work well depending on the condition of the spring.

I would set ride height first with an extra 1 1/2” in the rear. Be careful about going to low as the flywheel area of the pan can get a nasty hit. Normally, a 5/6” drop makes for a nice ride.

Hope this helps you some, All the Best,

Hank

Thanks guys for the good info.The reason I mentioned the 8 leaf front spring is because I have a couple of them (NOS or NORS) and I thought I might as well use one if it is suitable. Spindles are easy enough to get so I can use them to fine tune the stance when the rear is done.
I would like to keep the car as low as is practical because my hope is to fit it with hand controls so my Son can drive it. He will have to transfer from his wheelchair, so lower is better. I'm also thinking of a seat with tricks to make things easier.
I have a Ruckstell and a Warford but it seems like he will have plenty to do with his hands already without the additional duties, not to mention the added clutter.
I'll be back. Thanks again.

Mike

A Ruckstell could be fine with all hand controls. Many model T people routinely shift the Ruckstell without using the clutch anyway. The Ruckstell should be in excellent condition for safety reasons. I would NOT recommend any of the common auxiliary transmissions (Warford, Muncie, etc) as they are prone to missed shifts issues that could become very dangerous very quickly without more than two hands to work levers.
The throttle can be altered to work from either side of the steering wheel. There were actually accessories made back in the day to do that. The Ruckstell shift lever can be used either in the center as originally set up, or moved to the driver's left as many people today prefer it. Access in and out of the car may be your best deciding factor there.
Good luck, and have fun!

Mike,

If you require assistance in making the car user friendly for your son, please feel free to contact me and will assist in the designs to make it easier for either of you.

Not ever getting in another’s business, but some are more blessed than others and anyone in your situation, I will accommodate for smiles.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

Thanks, Hank and Wayne, for the input. Good thoughts on the Ruckstell. It can always be added at later time if everything else goes well.
I have some levers, given to me several years ago, that were for making a T driveable for a one legged driver. I think a T can be driven with one leg without any modifications. The levers are interesting, none the less, and I will check them out to see if they will be helpful. The existing lever is good for braking and allowing high gear. If low gear could somehow be added to it, then reverse gear would be the remaining hurdle.
With good brakes at the rear wheels, the transmission brake could be ignored, right?

Mike

Mike,

All the levers could be positioned to the right of the driver using a trapeze method except for reverse. The reverse could be to the left. High and low would work from the same mechanism.

All the Best,

Hank

PS Quit sweating the small stuff man, we have been to the moon! LOL!

Mike,

All the levers could be positioned to the right of the driver using a trapeze method except for reverse. The reverse could be to the left. High and low would work from the same mechanism.

All the Best,

Hank

PS Quit sweating the small stuff man, we have been to the moon! LOL!

Another factor in this lowering problem is that the torque tube should never go beyond level- even on the biggest bump with your other-in-law riding with you. This is very bad for the universal joint! As I remember this gives you about 7" to play with. I have found that 7" is normally enough!

For what it’s worth, it is not too difficult to put a automatic transmission behind a T block. I have cast a aluminum adapter