MTFCA Forum

Installed a working switch panel with illumination into the camping car.

Gasoline ruined the paint on my carburetor bowl, so I switched to a brass bowl.

I have rebuilt the Holley NH as well as the coilbox with new contacts, bolts, nuts and plastic coils on my TT.

Today I’m delivering a ‘26 tudor to my friend Ross Lilleker in College Station for his further transport to buyers in Atlanta, GA. Very convenient as he was planning on ‘deadheading’ to Savanna, GA to pick up a T. Then I’m on to Tyler, TX to receive the last antique auto a late and great 6 time AACA senior first winner -Ed Messenger - restored. Its a 1914 T runabout and will be the twin to the last T that I restored.

Lots of T owners are dusting off their cars, getting ready for spring. My car just got dusted! Around here, spring means snow at night, roadster weather in the daytime… Gotta go dry it off before the melt sits in the plug wells! -Chris, in Boulder.

First drive of the semi-complete camping car was TODAY.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkkPKM10Exg

Took it on a 16 mile loop for lunch and some errands in east Dallas. In traffic.

To make room in the shop for the new arrivals next week, I moved the TT into the bunkroom…….last thing I see now before I fall asleep.

I finished rebuilding my starter. But before I installed it I took the opportunity to put my new borescope through the starter hole for a look-about. I saw a lot of metal shavings attached to the poles of the magneto ring. That ring does not have wire loops on it. I have a new trans screen and magnet to go in next. I hope to catch those shavings there.

As I progressed upward, I saw the contact point of the magneto post. I expected to see that, I didn't expect to see that the upper portion of my magneto ring is gone! As long as the borescope was in the shop I looked into the cylinders and noticed that I have 7 two-piece valves. It figures with that wore out engine. Maybe I will deal with those issues in the fall.

I put on the license sticker because the old one expired this month. I also pushed it back about 5' because there is a water leak on a pipe near the water heater which I am hoping my son and I can fix Saturday. It is just a drip, but the floor is wet so I don't feel like getting under to oil the T before I drive it. Was planning to drive a couple weeks ago but we had heavy rain and even a few flakes of snow. Unusual for this area.
Norm

BUSHMIKE wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 03, 2023 7:17 pm

To make room in the shop for the new arrivals next week, I moved the TT into the bunkroom…….last thing I see now before I fall asleep.

Pretty cool but don't those headlamps staring at you all night keep you awake?

Volunteers from the Northern Michigan T's finished the rear axle repair and installation for an elderly model T owner's 1920 Model T coupe, the car he owned as a teenager in the 1950's. It is roadworthy at last. Volunteers are Jeff Humble, Art Holzshu, and Ron Patterson.

A hearty THANK YOU for volunteering your time to help make a seniors day(probably year!). Ill bet he carried a perma-grin for a week.

Have to steal Bushmike's comment to say "ditto". Only wish I coulda been part of the fun helping this guy. Live by the golden rule!
Thanks to you 3 fellas.

Finished restoring a 1911 Holley 4500. Other than cosmetics, I straightened the throttle arm and made a new gas shut needle. ent]

I wrestled with rebuilding and adjusting my generator and made a diode type “cutout retrofit with the diode sold by Langs. I’m still trying to get the charging rate down for somewhere around 2-4 amps when driving 35-40 mph. I loosened the brush plate, raised the third brush and set the “null” point using a DC power source on the bench. Then I locked down the brush plate and dropped the third brush back in contact and installed the generator into the car. I’ve adjusted the third brush to it’s furthest position anti clockwise and I still have an output of around 10-13 at 40 mph. Scratching my head.

Mine will show a 10 amp rate at moderate speeds, and it tapers off to about 6-7 amps at higher speeds over 40 MPH. It doesn't seem to have a linear response to adjusting the 3rd brush. I have an Optima red top 6 volt battery. I just turn the lights on to bring the charge rate down. It shows close to zero with the lights on. This car has higher CP headlight bulbs than stock. I go by the dash ammeter, which appears to work as it should, but I haven't attempted to verify its accuracy other than noting that it consistetnly shows zero when everything is off.

Do an in car 3rd brush adjustment.
That will get you a live adjustment for lower charge rates.

I cleaned the sooty sparkplugs in cylinders 1 and 2. The plugs in 3 and 4 were as clean as when I installed them. I suspect that I have a leaking intake manifold gasket in the back. My car had become hard to start without a lot of choke last fall. A leaky gasket is starting to make sense now.

Mark Osterman wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 13, 2023 10:01 pm

I wrestled with rebuilding and adjusting my generator and made a diode type “cutout retrofit with the diode sold by Langs. I’m still trying to get the charging rate down for somewhere around 2-4 amps when driving 35-40 mph. I loosened the brush plate, raised the third brush and set the “null” point using a DC power source on the bench. Then I locked down the brush plate and dropped the third brush back in contact and installed the generator into the car. I’ve adjusted the third brush to it’s furthest position anti clockwise and I still have an output of around 10-13 at 40 mph. Scratching my head.

Ron Patterson has an "in-car" null point setting procedure that should help you. It's been posted here a few times, but I can't search for it right now.

I think this is the Ron Patterson in-car procedure (from an older thread):

"Try this, it works every time: If the generator is in good shape and charging excessively or not at all
with the third brush fully retarded it is caused by the brushplate "neutral"
not being set correctly. This is a common problem with newly
rebuilt/repaired generators.

Setting the brushplate "neutral" can be very
tricky. You can follow the standard procedure, but getting it in just the
correct spot for proper generator operation is sometimes very elusive.
I have used this procedure for years to correct the brush plate not being in
the correct "neutral" position on running Model T's. You will need a helper
to watch the ammeter.

Install a known good relay type cutout (not a VR) on the generator. Remove
the generator cover band. Adjust the third brush to the fully retarded
position (all the way CCW when viewed from the gear end of the generator).
Start the engine and run at a speed where the generator should be charging.

Loosen the four #6-32 screws on the brushplate end cap 1-1 1/2 (only) turns.
With your fingers reach inside the generator case and rotate the entire
brushplate to a point where the ammeter is reading 1-2 amps charge. Tighten
the four #6-32 screws.

Now reset the third brush to the desired charging
rate. Given the way Model T's are driven today this should normally be no
more than 5-6 amps. This is also very easy on the poor generator and it will
thank you for it.

If everything else is working correctly, this procedure will set the
brushplate "neutral" to the proper position."

I had to do the same exact procedure on my first generator rebuild- worked liked a charm. It's these 4 screws circled in red...

I had already done the null adjustment on the bench before installing the generator back in the car. The problem I am having is that at 40 mph the output of the generator according to the ammeter is in the 16 amp range. This generator has a diode that allows flow to the battery when running and no flow back to the battery when the engine is not running as it should. I just want to reduce the output. I’m guessing I must do this with the generator in the car and the engine running at a moderate speed … by loosening the brush plate and rotating the brush plate to bring the output down to around 4 amps. Right?

I THINK YOU OVERLOOKED A STEP:

" Adjust the third brush to the fully retarded
position. (all the way CCW when viewed from the gear end of the generator).

Start the engine and run at a speed where the generator should be charging.

Loosen the four #6-32 screws on the brushplate end cap 1-1 1/2 (only) turns.
With your fingers reach inside the generator case and rotate the entire
brushplate to a point where the ammeter is reading 1-2 amps charge. Tighten
the four #6-32 screws.

********Now reset the third brush to the desired charging
rate. Given the way Model T's are driven today this should normally be no
more than 5-6 amps.*******"

Some generators seem to be less than cooperative in finding the "sweet-spot" for the null point - follow the procedure Ron Patterson recommends as printed above - engine at quite a bit more than a very fast idle with the 3rd brush already rotated towards the fender/away from the engine, slightly loosen the 4 brush holder screws and rotate the whole brush plate until the ammeter registers +2 amps then adjust the 3rd brush. Ron showed me how to build an ammeter holder with 2 leads to hang onto the radiator support rod so you can do the task on your own or you need another body to watch the meter in the cockpit !

Adapted a 15/16 " reamer to ream the driving plate bushing by installing sleeves over the shank to fit inside the brake drum bushings. I used sleeve retainer to hold the sleeves and turned them to .998-.999", same as the K R Wilson reamer, centering off the reamer pilot holes.

Today I oiled and checked crankcase level and rear axle level. Also checked the fuel level. Checked water level and adjusted the generator output. I also wiped off some dust. Tomorrow will wash it in the morning and then drive down to the museum, about 4 miles each way. Will have it parked in front for a couple hours hoping to attract some people to stop and see the other things as well. I do this on the last Saturday of each month when the museum is open to the public.
Norm

Melted the babbitt back out of the block and caps couple of weeks ago. Ran into some issues boring them out. Front was fine, center removed too much and rear the cutter moved and took a big gouge out. Been too cold in the shop to do anything, maybe get back to it next week. Babbitt is getting low, hope to have enough for the repour.

The aftermarket brake lights stopped working on my '24. It turns out the power feed wire from the battery side of the starter switch to the stoplight switch shorted on the frame, frying it. Unfortunately, it was bundled up with several other turn signal wires, so those wires also got their insulation damaged from the heat.

I ordered a new switch and I need to replace the offending wire and a section of each of the other wires where they got damaged. I'll be sure to install a fuse this time.

I made a stand to transport an engine out of 2x4's and 2x6's

Saturday I finished up the my restoration of our 1911 touring car by reinstalling the headlight plumbing, including the correct style hose and clamps from Langs.

Keith Townsend would say that I'm not yet finished, because I haven't finished restoring the removable front doors that I have! I hope to finish those doors this spring Keith!

Got the Beast on the charger. It is going to have to be my daily for
a while, as I blew a head gasket on the main work truck.

The first start up after we acquired the Milk Delivery truck (the truck the Colorado State Patrol refused to verify the VIN) was a difficult endeavor. Once she started, there were NO mosquitos within a 10 mile radius. After running a while things improved but not as much as I would have liked. The second start up, was much better but she still didn't run well. Investigating, I found the carb. bowl with green stuff in it and the float level incorrect. Cleaned the bowl, set the float level, and proceeded to the sediment bowl screen, which I found clogged with green mung. Cleaned the screen and tried the start up again. Much better. She ran a little rough but with a little caressing, smoothed right out and ran pretty clean. Not great but much better. Further starts went downhill again. Back to the carb. and potato. More green mung but not as bad.

Yesterday, I drained and unbolted the fuel tank and tried to figure out how to get it out of the wood body. I came to the understanding, you have to strip the whole package down to the muffler bearing in order to get the tank out. I opted for cleaning in place. Poured in a bunch of acetone to dissolve any type of coating or mung in the tank. With the tank being loose, I could alternately raise each end to slosh the acetone back and forth. When draining the acetone, I saw a slightly milky, pale green concoction come out. I removed the potato and disassembled it completely. What a mess. The green mung appears to be from the bronze. The shut off petcock was covered with a very sticky green slime. The screen had minimal accumulation due to being cleaned earlier. The drain petcock was full of green mung. I cleaned everything with picks/scrapers, wire brushes, and finally blew it all out with air. The sticky parts were cleaned with acetone, lubed with EZ Turn, and reassembled. What a huge difference. I used Gasoila to lube/seal threads and put everything back together.

With the weather deteriorating, I cleaned up, packed up, and called it a day. When the weather warms up, I'll get some gas in the tank, check for leaks, and fire the old girl up to see how much she liked the attention. 2 1/2" snow here overnight and still snowing.

Still trying to figure out the green mung. There would have to have been a LOT of water in that potato to cause that much corrosion. I'm not saying it did or did not happen, I just find it hard to believe there would be that much water and still allow the engine to start and run. I run a mix of gas and 2 cycle oil, so we'll see if the corrosion occurs again. If so, the next time will be much easier as I'll just drain the gas, and remove the potato for inspection/cleaning.

Good Luck to you All

mtntee20 your experience sounds exactly like a fuel system that had ethanol gas stored in it for a long time. I'm pretty sure the green mung is oxidized brass. From the sounds of it, you cleaned things pretty good so I hope you have good luck with it!

Greg,

That's what I suspected. I am unable to figure out where that much water went. The entire inside of the sediment bulb was corroded including the shut off petcock. I would think, that much water would flood the engine so badly, it wouldn't ever start until the engine dried out. I use ethanol free gas in everything other than our Silverado and Tahoe. I add 2 cycle oil at about 1:100 so it should be enough to resist corrosion and prevent aging gas, but not enough to cause operating problems with the Ts or the small engines I have.

Thanks for your input. Verifies my thoughts.

Terry

I suspect that if you got enough gas to the spark plugs to run the engine, it would have blown the water and "mung" out the exhaust. However, it would be a good idea to change the oil anyway. You did better than I did with a car which had been parked for about 20 years with gas still in it. I was able to clean the carburetor but found out that the radiator shop charged almost as much to clean the tank than it would be to buy a new tank. This was for a 1920 and the tanks were available at the vendors about 5 years ago. So the tank was replaced and the fuel line. It ran fine after that. She told me it had made a very loud noise the last time they drove it and it was stored in a barn. Her husband passed away and she had to move the T so wanted me to get it running. I found out what the loud noise was! The exhaust pipe had come loose from the exhaust manifold! Easy fix.
Norm

Alcohol can absorb moisture directly from the air, besides any condensation. The gasohol decays into a nasty, corrosive substance that can be very difficult to get rid of. It may even support bacterial/algae growth. The green gorp may be some sort of bio-slime, or it may be brass/copper corrosion residue, or both. If the tank was ever coated, the coating may have broken down over time, or due to "modern" gasoline, which can be adulterated with almost anything. I don't know how stable 2 cycle oil mixed with EPA and Colorado-approved gasoline would be, but it's possible it could cause issues. I'd stay away from adulterated gasoline, if possible. MMO might be a better choice for an anti-corrosive. E-gas is more stable in non-vented fuel systems, which counts out most old cars and tractors and most all older power equipment.

I transformed my Art Studio into a Wheel sanding and paint shop today. The studio consists of and easel mounted to a workbench. I applied a coat of tractor paint to my spare wheel last fall and have allowed it to dry for 4 or 5 months. It and the epoxy underneath wet sand nicely now. Using a strip of top material to back up the sandpaper is a good way to sand the spokes. Using the color enamel rather than primer keeps any chipping in years to come less objectional. I will use some glazing putty to fill any low spots. Then another coat of enamel and wait a few weeks. By then, it will be more pleasant outside to sand. The other wheels have held up well for a dozen years and 12,000 miles with the tractor paint.
I bought 3 tires for each end of this car and now I can rotate them for wear.
Rich

Today was the first time I started my car and let it warm up since October. Electrical gremlins drove me nuts but seem to be solved for now. I removed the intake to fix a gasket leak (lean mixture in the rear two cylinders) and discovered that there were no glands to align manifold holes. I will bet the exhaust is the same way. Old Bo strikes again! My distant cousin Bo (whose name is Bob but Bob has too many letters to remember) put the engine together, probably blindfolded.

I sealed the intake the best I could with high-temp sealant until proper glands/rings arrive. the engine ran pretty well but I can't leave it with crappy gaskets.

Just under the wire: Today laid the fresh ground EE crank, added new rods with Aluminum hc pistons and rings. Installed the new mag coil ring, adjusted the gap and mounted the flywheel. All on the second to the last March.

Next will be assembly of the transmission, bands, pan and hogs head plus new Aluminum high compression head. Going to install a new gear reduction starter as well. Then reinstall the motor, hook up some stuff and fire it off. That will be next week.

frontyboy

Finishing up my fuel injection install on my 16, hopefully have it completed by May.