Calling All Ye Heinz Coil Box Afficionados

[Distagon2]

I decided to fire up my 1912 Roadster engine. The previous owner had it rebuilt and it had not run since the rebuild. So I hooked up a 6V battery to the battery post on the firewall and after much exertion I got it fired up. I switched the coil box switch to magneto to see how it performs and it ran until I completely disconnected the battery. So it starts on battery and will run on magneto as long as the battery remains connected to the battery post. I concluded that the battery provides juice whether on BAT or MAG. Hmmm, that sure doesn't sound right. So, we all know that it is ALWAYS the ignition switch so I opened up the Heinz switch on the coil box in the car (which I am sure is a repro) and also opened up the switch on an older, crusty Heinz coil box to compare.

On the " new" switch it appears the brass contacts have been worn through. Not sure how that contact is made, whether it is an overlay over steel or was brass plated. Is this wear normal or does it need fixin'? I am going to experiment with retensioning the internal switch contact spring and see if it makes a difference.

Just for fun, I have included a picture of the internals of an original switch I have. Looks a little rough to me......

[Russ T Fender]

Sure not the way my Heinz coil box works. Sounds to me like you were never running on mag at all but were on battery even when you had the coil box switched over to mag.

[Distagon2]

I agree, so this tells me there is something wrong with the way the switch is set up. I'm going to carefully examine/adjust the internal tension on the switch contacts. Seems like if I have the switch on BAT (without the engine running), I can buzz a coil. But if I switch to MAG (without the engine running) the coil should stop buzzing since the MAG is not moving or putting out anything. Experimentation tomorrow.....

[Loftfield]

Just to add a small bit of worry. If your switch actually is connecting the battery and the magneto at the same time, (a short across the contacts), you may be feeding DC current into the mag, which can demagnetise the magnets. If that happens it will be necessary to go back to earlier posts that describe how to re-charge the magnets with the engine in place.

[Distagon2]

Yes, that thought had crossed my mind....not a good thought.

[TWrenn]

Sounds like maybe a wiring issue?

[Distagon2]

Yeah it makes me wonder if the switch is wired correctly. Checking it out today. The wiring in a 1912 is pretty darn simple, but who knows.

[Rich P. Bingham]

From the photos, it looks like the switch is "toast". Top photo looks like a JB Weld (or something similar) repair ?? The bottom photo looks like contacts completely eroded from electric arc, and marginally repaired with solder ?

Regardless other issues, you should have a solid, functional switch for best results.

[KimDobbins]

Greg, the previous owner probably wired it wrong, I can send you a wire diagram on wed if you haven't fixed it by then. Kim

[Distagon2]

Kim, that would be appreciated, thanks. I am now thinking that switch is not wired correctly. That's about all it could be.