MTFCA Forum

[/img][/img]
Replaced housing caps with the Snyders outer grease seals. The key doesn’t fit all the way into the keyway length wise. Solutions please.

I don't see the image you posted. If a new key, it may be a little wide. A few strokes of a hand file should take care of it. You still want a snug fit.

John, your seal may not be on far enough. Is it a modern neoprene seal or the original style?

I found new keys fit tight in the new Snyders axles, but new keys were a proper slip fit in the hub key ways. I filed a little off the side of half of the key that goes in the hub and left the hub half alone. This has been discussed previously on the forum and the fix described above has been applied by others. jb

The Snyders is neoprene. It won’t go on any further. Probably wasn’t clear but it is the length not width. Can I file the non-tapered end down so the key fits the keyway?

The new keys should be a tight slip fit in my mind. NOT LOOSE! Especially in a new axle. Careful fitting with a file just a bit will make a good fit. A loose hub starts the key to slightly move back and forth to wallow out the key way.

You could shorten the key, however, be sure the hub goes on all the way. I would try sliding the hub without the key and torque down Then see if you can turn the wheel. If not, your seal might be protruding too far. The original cap held in a felt seal and went on all the way. You might either need a different seal or longer axles. If it fits, shorten the key and use it as is.
Norm

the aluminum "outer seal" sold by suppliers can be problematic for many installations.

No one can give a definitive answer until you provide pictures of the following:

• from the rear with no seal or key in place: how far over the backing plate does the brake drum sit when everything is snugged down?

drums should not overlap the backing plate, but due to wear often do...how much wear and how "too far" does the hub go on?

• from the side and above: with the wheel off, alumum housing/seal in stalled, does the "straight" portion of the axle show through/past the seal?

honestly, in my OPINION, if you feel you must cut the key shorter, you've got some really non-stock fitment going, but that's about all that I or anyone else can meaningfully contribute until pictures are posted.

John, trying to fill in the gaps here. Did you install new inner seals and new bearing sleeves? Do the sleeves extend beyond the axle housing or flush? Did you install the inner seal first then the sleeve? Did you put the key on the axle with the tapered end towards the outer seal with the taper mating with the axle keyway taper? Is the new key longer than the hub keyway?

The key must be snug and the axle nut must be tight! 75-90 ft-lbs minimum. Re-check after 50-75 miles and at least annually. Failure to do so can ruin your axles. Most of the cars I've helped work on this year had damaged axles from the hub being loose on the taper.

The attached photo taken at a restoration specialist friend's shop shows damaged axles (and some new ones) awaiting replacement this past spring. He's done quite a few more since.

The T is a 1925 coupe. I have the tapered key facing not facing out towards outside of shaft. I have taken pictures with my iPhone and attached the pictures. Format issue. Appreciate all the replies and if someone has recommendations on who to attach photos will be greatly appreciated.

CrandallJ wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 20, 2023 12:25 pm

The T is a 1925 coupe. I have the tapered key facing not facing out towards outside of shaft. I have taken pictures with my iPhone and attached the pictures. Format issue. Appreciate all the replies and if someone has recommendations on who to attach photos will be greatly appreciated.

I think you've got some typos above...
Is this how you're orienting and inserting your key?

My two cents:

If the inner end of the keyway slot in the axle is covered by the end of the seal, then the seal isn't installed far enough and the slot will eventually chew up the seal material even if you shorten the key.

If I recall, the aluminum seal has an O-ring (or two) that is a tight fit on the axle tube. It can be difficult to get that O-ring to slide all the way over the axle tube, especially if it isn't lubed beforehand.

If you have installed the neoprene inner grease seals and they are stopping the bearing sleeves from going in far enough to be flush with the ends of the axle tubes, then you need to remove the sleeves and grind the inner ends (the ends that fit against the inner seals) until the outer ends of the sleeves are flush with the ends of the axle tubes.

If the axle keyway slot clears the seal, then the correct key should fit without modification, but if it didn't I wouldn't hesitate to shorten the outer, square end of the key if it sticks out too far.

BTW, those tiny welch plugs are a pain in the butt.

On. One axle the keyway extended too far outward, where the seal lip contacted. I filled in this area of the keyway.
The seal has been working for atheist 4000 miles.

Art Mirtes