MTFCA Forum

I want to use original radiator springs for my 1927 coupe, but I can't find two of mine. Do any of you have some that I could purchase?

I will put this request in the classified section aso.

Note that the installed height of the radiator and shell will not be affected by using either new or original springs. If you use either new or original new springs, and run the nuts down as specified, the radiator will be at the same position.

On my 1927 car, the distance from the top surface of the radiator shell, at the center and just ahead of the radiator neck, to the center of the screw in the center of the radiator apron just below the crank is 27 1/4 inches.

Overtightening the radiator mounting hardware risks damaging the radiator due to vibration and chassis flex.

Pat, You said over tightening the radiator springs could cause damage, that was my concern too. I thought by using the old springs I would prevent that. The new springs are very stiff and appear to be longer than the old ones.

The shorter springs would be preferred, in my opinion. If you have two old ones, I'd use one of them on each side, and one new one on each side. You could grind a little off the ends of the new ones, being careful not to get the springs too hot and being careful to keep the ends square. You might get about 1/16" off each end. I'd make sure the threaded plates that go on the bottom of the radiator studs are screwed out against the cotter pins, and only screw the top nuts down just enough to get a cotter pin in. I used half a cotter pin on the nuts in order to compress the springs as little as possible.

The issue about the new springs started out about stiffness & then were compared to some old ones. From that discussion the picture was presented with the two new springs of equal length & two old springs on unequal length. Then length was to resolve the stiffness issue. Now how can we account for the old springs, one slightly shorter than the other? Is one broken, metal fatigue other?
Could that argument then be applied to difference between the new spring & the longer old spring? --
--
Note also that the length of the mounting studs are different too
1926-27 - 3-3/8" long or 3-1/2 long ( image source John Regan) which could be the issue that the stud is not to spec this was incorrect reference. Vowell Art added later --
So without knowing what the specification its up to personal preference
How to measure a spring or comapre them https://www.leespring.com/measure-a-compression-spring
Preserving Compression in a spring https://idcspring.com/spring-lose-tensi ... ompressed/

In the drawing, the radiator apron is shown, but not specifically noted. The apron is shown setting on the bottom flange of the inner thimble. The holes in my apron are not large enough to allow it to fit over the thimble. The holes in my apron are just large enough to fit over the stud. Therefore, the apron sits on the hood shelf. I don't think is a problem. What is your opinions?

your part is right, and your planned installation is right

it is your understanding of the drawing that is flawed (I think the drawing while nicely done, could be clearer or more obvious as to how the apron fits). I think your present misconstruing of the drawing is understandable the way it is annotated.

I X'do ut the reference above was from an past discussion
Here is the Vowell Art drawing from the Forum with the apron. Note there is no nut on the bottom of the stud even though it is threaded.
The kit parts match the drawing --

In the top drawing, the panel sitting on the flange of the cup is the lower tank support, not the apron. The apron sits directly on the frame, then the spring, then the cup. The small hole in the apron is 3/8' so it goes over the stud only.

Allan from down under.

Now you know how it all fits, you may find getting there has problems.
I suggest that you first assemble the lower nut, plate and lower spring into the chassis.
Then put a piece of tube - maybe a socket - on the stud above the frame and fit and tighten the top nut to compress the lower spring.
Push a small piece of wood under the stud and remove the top nut and tube.
The stud is now held high enough to allow you to fit the parts above the chassis and the nut.
Complete the assembly and remove the wood.

Alan, The piece sitting on the flange of inner thimble is the radiator apron and not the lower tank support. Refer to the attached drawing.

Bruce

With respect, are you even looking at anything that I've posted, Alan's posted, Frank's posted (with excellent drawing which mirrors your exact parts description), Chris and others have posted???

You are describing '26-'27 parts...you've latched onto a faulty drawing at the beginning of your post, and now are posting a drawing which shows how earlier radiators go together (with the apron and shell, both going over the thimble). That is NOT your setup.

Look again at the last drawing that Frank posted. THAT is your car and that drawing matches your parts description.

My goodness, I don't know what else anyone can possibly say to convince you that

The holes in my apron are just large enough to fit over the stud. Therefore, the apron sits on the hood shelf. I don't think is a problem. What is your opinions?

you are correct in your plan.

Sorry. I have Grandkids
Craig.

You beat me to it Craig.


Andy

Scott, I have looked each of the posts!!! I appreciate everyone of them. They have been very helpful, and I know how to proceed.

Bruce

The full apron on a 26-7 T is as wide as the frame. It does not run up the inside as indicated in that drawing.On my 1925 original buckboard, there is a tab bent along the side of the rail, and that tab is jammed in between the frame rail and the fender bracket. This side tab was deleted on the 26-7 models which have a different frame corner bracket, but the top fits in the same manner, a 3/8" hole going over the stud and the apron sitting flat on the frame. Then comes the spring, thimble, radiator, shell, cup, nut and split pin.

Hope it goes well for you.

Allan from down under.

On my 1927 roadster, the fender sits on the frame, then the hood shelf blocks, hood shelf, apron, spring, etc, as shown in the 3975-76 C assembly drawing above. Everything appears to fit correctly.

…And various other incorrect combinations are possible due to use of radiator aprons that are incorrect for the subject vehicle…

This is funny ….
A repro apron came with my car ,26 Touring ..
I got it out today …I was wondering the order it went in …
Wha-la here it is …I do hafta bend the tab over ,,locate where hole goes and drill ….
Also need to put the slots in where “tabs” for bright trim goes,,but this has helped…
I need to prime & paint too….
Going with Allen’s drawing I’m thinkin’….
Then new wood in the top bows……
Thanks Guys…

Use the 1926- 1927 Radiator Assembly Drawing.

I purchased the attached old radiator springs. We sure look good to me.

The photo shows my two originals on the right, then two of the four originals I purchased, and then the four that came with the radiator support package. Any comments?