MTFCA Forum

Hello Daniel

You will be hard pressed to find
a decent new or used enclosed
car hauler trailer readily available
because of the minimum clearance
at the rear door that you require.

Anything a dealer carries on a lot
will be what most customers are
shopping for to buy & take home.

So - you are going to see 78 inch
rear door clearance as the max
on most dealer lots.

Most likely - one will have to be
custom built to your specs.

My recommendations after
lessons learned personally
transporting over (450) Model T
vehicles of every configuration
since 2006:

Trailer Construction Design
Minimum Requirements:

An 8.5 wide enclosed car hauler.

Coffin front to maximize usable
interior space - a v-nose does
not reduce wind drag - it takes
away from usable interior space.

Minimum 20 foot box to allow
for an average full size vehicle
and/or unanticipated extra parts
and tools and maybe a cot to
sleep on if needed because you
will find extra room will be needed
and greatly appreciated.

5200 pound torsion tandem spread axles
16 inch ST radial tires rated at 12 ply
with highway tread = no flats.

Roof - sidewall - floor minimum 16” on center.

1/4” minimum thick x 6 inch minimum
full tube construction full perimeter frame
with sidewalls built on the frame.

Full welds.

No outriggers off of a narrower structural design.

One piece roof with no roof vents
or skylights - no leakage possibility.

Adjustable sidewall vents at front and
and rear of trailer - minimum of four

Minimum 0.30” aluminum exterior
siding attached at every side
structural member with screws.

You can opt for no interior sidewall
covering or ceiling covering to save
on weight and construction cost.

Sidewall and roof insulation
provide no benefit.

Center tube from tip of
extended minimum 36 inch
trailer tongue continuous to first axle.

Removable - adjustable bulldog
coupler in 4” channel rated at
12K minimum.

3/4” treated plywood floor
screwed to each floor crossmember
at 12” minimum intervals.

No D rings - install surface mount
etrac at custom intervals.

You need a minimum nominal
door clearance of 85 inches - personally
I would have a 96 inch rear door.

36” wide x 72” tall flush mount doors
that have the hinge side on the front
side of the trailer and the lock side
on the rear so if the door accidentally
opens while moving it will not blow off.

These doors should be placed inline
directly across from each other on the
passenger and curb side on either
side of the trailer located at a distance
that allow center access to where you
plan to place your Model T in the trailer
but at least one foot in front of the
interior trailer wheel well box so as
not to comprise sidewalk integrity.

Fold out steps centered under each door
and a grab handle at a comfortable height
on the inside and outside of the trailer.

Junction box at tongue separate
from battery box for 12VDC breakaway
battery at tongue so you have splice point.

30 amp 12VDC charge line ran to inside
front of trailer to charge 12VDC deep cycle
battery from tow vehicle via 7 way plug.

12VDC led trailer lights at locations you
prefer that will adequately light the
interior at night with doors closed
that have feed from 12VDC battery
at front of trailer - not tow vehicle.

Trailer light switch at rear & front door.

Exterior led combination clearance
and hazard and turn signal lights
at fender wells.

Rear adjustable 12VDC flood light(s)
Installed on either side of rear door
controlled by switch at door(s).


FJ

Freighter Jim has provided all the details you need. However, tall trailers are easily available. I use a lower trailer, have to put down the top but the windshield gets in fine (1912 Touring). I like the lower trailer because there is less windage driving down the road, much less sway from side to side in heavy weather. I have a Kauffman trailer, mostly because they aren't too far down the road, and I Iike it a lot, well made, sturdy. Forget 16 feet, go for 20 with a vee nose. I have a work table with vise and a set of tool drawers (that also hold spare parts) in the front, plenty of room to work, plenty of room for all the 'extras" such as suitcase for clothing, jacks and jack stands, etc. Don't forget to order tie down rings in the floor and don't forget an electric winch in the front for the day when T won't start, has a flat tire, etc. You don't need a monster winch but it is nice to have a remote on it so you can pull the car in with you in the driver seat, just in case: be prepared!

Wow ! That was a ton of advice...The trailer I ordered built up in Hillsboro is 18’ long to accommodate a TT C Cab stakebed. It’s 8.5’ wide and 8’ tall to accommodate the ‘14 runabout w/ top deployed or a Centerdoor. I have 4 D rings on the floor and they immobilize my Ts nicely. Yes, I agree you’ll only need a 16’ trailer to only carry Ts or As. That’s fortunate because, in my research, trailers come in 12,14,16 and 20 foot lengths. I also like Jim’s suggestion of having no roof vents. No worries about tree limbs destroying it. Vents on sides.

George House wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 27, 2023 8:00 am

Wow ! That was a ton of advice...The trailer I ordered built up in Hillsboro is 18’ long to accommodate a TT C Cab stakebed. It’s 8.5’ wide and 8’ tall to accommodate the ‘14 runabout w/ top deployed or a Centerdoor. I have 4 D rings on the floor and they immobilize my Ts nicely. Yes, I agree you’ll only need a 16’ trailer to only carry Ts or As. That’s fortunate because, in my research, trailers come in 12,14,16 and 20 foot lengths. I also like Jim’s suggestion of having no roof vents. No worries about tree limbs destroying it. Vents on sides.

George, how do you keep that trailer so clean! Or is the pic when it was brand new? Or maybe you keep it inside a barn. When I bought my second trailer I got the taller one, wider one, and it's 20 feet. At first I wasn't sure if I'd like the 20 foot but now I would say get the extra length and go 20'. It sure is nice for working on the car when it's in there if needed. I keep my '13 in it all winter in the barn with a heater inside, I insulated the ceiling. On low setting it keeps the trailer between 40-48 degrees depending of course on how cold outside it is. Costs about $1.50 a day to heat it.

TW was kind enough to go look at a trailer for me
and put a deposit down on it - when I paid the
balance he was kind enough to let me store it
at his house last year - then I took it to a trailer
repair shop relatively close to have necessary
work done - it spent the Winter there waiting
for a spot to open in their schedule …

The work was recently completed and on my
current trip out east I probably will pick it up.

I may or may not sell it ….


FJ

"Minimum 0.30” aluminum exterior
siding attached at every side
structural member with screws."

This seems like a very thick skin? Maybe 0.030"? Excellent and complete list of specs regardless, jb

Anything to save labor & material on the assembly
line is what trailer manufacturers try to do.

0.30” is stock on most trailers.
You get less “ ripples “ as time passes.
With 16” OC sidewall framing and exterior
aluminum screwed to every sidewall frame
member you have a more stout wall and
a stronger trailer frame.

FJ

The only thing to add is -
Think about current price & resale value, in case you buy another T. Best to spend the cash then have regrets
Height will also affect your choice . Where are you going to park the trailer when not in use. Garage door height matters

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 27, 2023 12:56 pm

The only thing to add is -
Think about current price & resale value, in case you buy another T. Best to spend the cash then have regrets
Height will also affect your choice . Where are you going to park the trailer when not in use. Garage door height matters

Well when it comes to trailers to haul a T there's not an ordinary house garage door that would allow a trailer anyway. You either keep it outside somewhere or in a barn with at least a 10' tall door. I believe my trailer sits 9.5' off the ground to the roof top. I keep my trailer outside in summer empty and in the barn with the '13 in it and heated in the trailer in the winter.

yes, pic was taken when trailer is new Tim. I think decals were added before I hauled a T. I previously had a 7’ wide 14’ enclosed trailer. Was almost impossible to exit a 26-27 T when driven in. Thankfully, 8.5’ width is common to most manufacturers. Don’t think I could negotiate my entry gate with a 20’ trailer.