MTFCA Forum

Hi everyone,
I am having trouble with an Anderson timer which I believe is not advancing enough at higher RPMs. With spark lever fully advanced, the end of commutator rod hits the fan belt. I took off the rod so I could advance the spark more and the engine ran much better leaving me to think there is an issue with this new timer. Has anyone experienced what I have and what did you do to rectify the problem? E-timer? All coils have been through Brent Mize’s shop. Engine starts very easy and idles very nice! Please give your thoughts. Thank you!
Harvey

Sounds like you need to bend the timer rod so you can get more advance when the lever is all the way down on the quadrant. Did you set the timing correctly for starting when the lever is all the way up? If you just switched from a roller timer to an Anderson you need to check the timing before you do anything else. If the timing is correct with the lever fully in the up position you should be able to get enough advance when the lever is all the way down.

Harvey

as Val said, the Anderson can be quite different from a roller timer and needs to be timed properly...go through the sequence for that and you'll be surprised

as for the timer hitting the belt that can only be because your belt is too long, requiring the adjustment to go too far and will swing the belt over toward the timer. A shorter belt will allow the mounting arm to swing down/left and you'll never hit the belt with the timer rod again.

Timing needs to be checked and adjusted. Do not follow the Ford Service Manual or use the jig that the vendors sell, it is ONLY for a Ford timer and Ford roller. Fully retarded lever should not cause a spark to fire untill just past TDC.

Check out this earlier post about timer settings and timing. Mark Ostermans method that’s mentioned of setting the timing is fool proof and real easy. Do it this way and you can’t go wrong. https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/8 ... 1535744469

Mark Ostermans method that’s mentioned of setting the timing is fool proof and real easy.

Mark's car is a 1923. I don't know why he would have to remove the radiator to see the crank pulley pin. There's no apron to block the view.

Mark stated that he stops when the piston starts to go down. How far down should it go? With a stock crank, 15 degrees is .087" of downward travel. At 15.5 degrees, the travel is .093" (3/32"). I measure travel with a dial indicator because I have one and I can't see the crank pin clearly. Using a dial may be overkill but it is easy for me to use. Measurements with an "A" crank will be different.

I have never had to take the lever all the way to the bottom of the quadrant, maybe 3/4 or bit more of the way. If someone is starting their T, then just pulling it all the way down, that is not how it works. You need to pay attention to how the engine is running and how you are driving. (yes I know people that do that) There are charts that show ballpark of where the lever should be at what speeds.

As for how far down: I crank the engine till I just see the piston stop on the compression stroke then just start to go down looking through the sparkplug hole at top dead center no 1 cylinder. As long as it is over the top and going down. This position is only needed for starting, not running for most people that start on battery then switch to magneto. Once that is found, with lever all the way up, you bend the rod to set.

With the exhaust glowing red, this is also a good sign you are running too lean. Try richening up the mixture.

I know that some may disagree, especially ones that start on magneto, even they need to pull the lever down 4 clicks anyway after getting the timer set, so degrees are more important.

Mark stated that he stops when the piston starts to go down. How far down should it go?

This is why I prefer to set timing according to pin position. That shows me exactly where 15º past TDC is. Watching a screwdriver or a straw go down in a spark plug hole is simply less accurate. Granted, a dial indicator is just as accurate as pin position, but is it any easier? I don't think so.

I realize that on 24-27 cars the radiator apron presents an obstacle, and checking through the plug hole is easier. I don't understand how seeing the pin is problematic on 1909-1923 T's.

A dental mirror will work on any year.

just for the heck of it...

I may have this wrong? Running retarded is what gets the heat going most and a quick cherry red manifold...running too advanced just makes it balk and sputter, not overheat?

New approach, How lean is lean? Are you trying the old 1/2 turn from closed wives tale on the fuel mixture knob? Not a good idea for many.

With all else addressed, open the mixture adjuster another half to three quarter turn and see if the problem of red manifold magically goes away. Then wait for 20 seconds and then close the mixture valve in 1/4 turn cw and wait 20 seconds on each setting...keep going and waiting until you get first hint of sputter? Open it 1/4 ccw and mark it,,,that's your very own sweet spot.