MTFCA Forum

The first photo shows the position of throttle rod with the throttle lever closed and the second photo shows the throttle rod with the throttle lever wide open. Is the set screw in the first photo in the correct position?

Yes it is correct.

The set screw is your idle adjust stop. Screw it in or out to set the idle, and you are done.

Allan from down under.

I concur with Allan from down under again. bobt

The set screw is used to set the hot idle speed.

Adjust it to get the lowest smooth idle speed with the engine warmed up and the hand throttle lever fully up.

With the hand throttle lever in the fully down position, which is wide open, the throttle stop on the carburetor throttle lever should be against the carburetor body. The one in the second photo does not appear to be.

Wide open, your throttle rod is too short.

Dan, maybe too long?

You have an early(long) throttle arm on your carb. It should be the later short.
It has been bent up to get an idle stop. Works, but you lose full throttle opening.

The Ford NH in my Runabout is like Bruce's. With the throttle quadrant up against the stop, the idle screw is touching the carb body. With the quadrant fully down, I do not get wide open throttle. Mine opens a little more than Bruce's but not much. I have a Kingston L4 that I rebuilt. It has a shorter throttle lever and full throttle opening.

I notice something up with your choke lever. The lever shaft sticks out too far & there is no return spring.
The butterfly in its proper location would prevent this some.
Without the choke spring, (not as much a factor on a 26-7, but still possible) The choke can close on its own with a road bounce & kill the motor.
That occasional & intermittent stalling is hard to diagnose & will drive you nuts.

John

look again...closely...there's a spring

I do see it. Thanks.
It looks much smaller than normal. I thought it might have been a worn spot.
Anyway, the lever is out so far, its near off the end of the stop.

Yes, it is, and one must wonder what kind of choke plate is in it that would even allow for such a misalignment.

Where did you procure that carburetor from Bruce ? It appears that they didn't do you any favors. Corey Walker does good work if need be !

Here are some photos taken during my restoration of the carb.

Two issues

One: the brass post on top of the carb that screws in - that is a tapered pipe thread and the part is made wrong. The tapered thread is too large in diameter...the hex should be able to run down and either touch or nearly touch the top of the carb. Don't try to tighten it more...it won't go. You will have to buy a split die to run on successive times, each with the die a little smaller, trying to thread the part onto the carb after each time you run the die onto it. When the hex seats against the carb, you're done

Two: the two "fingers" which clamp over the above part usually are too long and crash into the hex before the needle seats. You will need to cut off about 3/32" length of those fingers.

Once the brass fitting is short enough as installed, and the "fingers" can run down further, you should find that you can turn the needle all the way down and gently seat it against the jet in the carb. Thus seated, you can now unscrew 1 1/2 turns, start the car and screw back in until the car runs correctly after it is warmed up.

Based on comments received, I have ordered the short throttle and chock levers from Lang's. The catalog lists the NH long levers for 1919-25 and the short levers for 1926. I am curious. Why the difference?

BLB27 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 07, 2023 10:59 pm

Based on comments received, I have ordered the short throttle and chock levers from Lang's. The catalog lists the NH long levers for 1919-25 and the short levers for 1926. I am curious. Why the difference?

Actually the long levers are 20-23 NH. Short levers 23-27 applications. 24 or 25-27 the short choke lever has a dog leg on the lower arm.
This is for clearance for the single control choke wire in late 25-27 applications.