MTFCA Forum

Here is a method I've used for years to install an NH on any year. A 1913 is a bit more difficult because of the aluminum manifold. If your car has a new fuel line this is going to be more challenging. I hook up the fuel line to the carburetor before attaching it to the manifold. This removes the work of trying to fit everything. All you have to do is get the fuel line nut started on the threads before anything else. You can hold the carburetor in you hand, or whatever works for you. I stuck a scribe through the intake manifold into the carburetor so it wouldn't fall down while doing all this. After a couple of turns. I removed the scribe, and inserted the old stock brass clad gasket using a taper punch to line it up. I then installed the two bolts. I used a thin wall deep socket to turn the bolt, which doesn't go all the way in because of the manifold, but it did the job. I also wedged a screwdriver between the nut and the carburetor to keep it from turning. On later models a manifold wrench will work. I'm also using one of Lang's repro shut off valves, which is the same exact dimension as the original elbow. Next I installed the priming wire, and carburetor adjustment, and cotter pinned both of them.

Original, that reads like a pretty involved and back-bending-over-the RF fender task. But if it works for you
When I remove or install the carburetor, I remove it with the intake manifold. Two half manifold clamps keeps the exhaust manifold in place. Never have had a problem removing/installing the fuel line nut with a shaved 5/8” open end. Then you can do what you need to on the workbench. Reinstalling is just a matter of cleaning out the 2 block intake holes, finding 2 more copper crush washers around the 2 intake glands and snapping into place. Replace all 4 manifold clamps.

I have those too, but this time didn't feel like removing the manifold.