MTFCA Forum

Steve, I have a very bad shoulder problem , so the change-over was worth the effort. And yes, the difference in noticeable .

Steve

I have a friend who has done this...along with numerous other updates. Every change is followed by an admonition "if you don't do this to make the car safer, you'll die".

Please change it. I don't want you to die.

You change out the pinion and gears (they should be on the same pitch diameter on the shaft as I recall). Ought to consider replacing the 3 dowel pins on the steering shaft as well while you're at it. Just use the short ones in the kit...the one long pin is for gearcases with the relief machined in the bottom to help keep from going over center. Sometimes the change out is easy and sometimes it is a real pistol to get the gears to mesh properly with the gearcase freely. Measure the hole in the cover that the pinion goes through...you may wish to purchase the kit with the oversized body on the pinion to make up for a worn cover.

Myself, I like the steering the way it came. Keeping speeds at 35 or below, the original ratio is just fine for me.

I am not sure whether or not I have ever driven a model T with the 5 to 1 steering gears. Never really checked any of the cars I have had to know which gears were in there. I have liked all the running/driving Ts I have had. Just based upon their vintage, I would guess most of mine were 4 to 1.
Yes you do need to change the steering shaft, or at least the upper end of it to the 5 to 1 style (usually has one flat side between the three pins). While the cut and pitch of the gear teeth is compatible, the spacing is not. With the smaller pinion and larger planet gears the pins for the 4 to 1 are about 1/8 inch closer to the center.
Sometimes the planet gears will mesh fine with the outer case, sometimes they will bind slightly, or worse. I have never used "Time-saver", but I hear it can be used to help fit the tight gears. I did put a set of 5 to 1 in a column for a project that then got dropped, therefore never driven. I used fine valve seat compound to loosen the tight gears.
Good luck Steve J!

Wayne

thanks for the correction on the shaft...I have only done 1 update and that DID include the steering shaft on that job as it was shot

No worries Scott C, you still da MASTER!

I made the change on my '14 speedster and love the results. I was able to work the gears into the '14 steering column using time saver and a lot of patience but the results were well worth the effort. I replaced the steering shaft as part of the process.

There have been posts about changing the shaft and gears. Some have stated the the gears wouldn’t go in the case. They were to tight. Some had good luck fitting them and others no so much.
You might want to do a forum search to see how others did it and what they ran into. It does make steering a little easier though.

How are the 3 gear pins removed ? Are they press fit or have a thread and unscrew My truck is a 26 but think shafts and gears worn and would like to replace. I have a little bump steer and front end appears tight but will re inspect. Thanks for the help.

Just bump the pinion pins out, no threads, press fit.




5:1 planet gears and the 5:1 pinion drive gear must be used on the 5:1 shaft. Won't work with any 4:1 pieces.

I recently changed my gear case, gears, pinion and shaft. The gears were a little tight (and my new shaft had .020" runout ). I had the whole column on the bench. Like Wayne, I used fine valve grinding compound and about 15 minutes of spinning my steering wheel to make everything turn smoothly.

I am in the process of putting 21" wheels on the 21, more rubber on the ground for stopping not sliding (lots and lots of city driving) . In my parts collection I have a 5 to 1. Thanks for posting this in the first place as a reminder. I painted the tube today.

The gear case doesn't need to be replaced. The 5-1 gears came out in 1925, not 1926!

Steve: Do the change, and you will be happy. My '25 had 4:1 gears when I got it and a 16" steering wheel. The change to 5:1 made a very noticeable difference, and so did the change to a 17" steering wheel. I was also fortunate to find a 1" shorter pitman arm which also made a difference.The combination makes it almost seem like power steering with way more control at 45-50 MPH. I did the same change on my '15 roadster years ago and it really helped especially as the '15 had the small 16" wheel . Good luck : Bruce

Steve, I recommend doing the change. Better control not having the steering so quick. I made the change in our 13 touring......did not have any problems being too tight. Must use three shorter pins in early gear heads.

I have posted this a few times in the past. I have changed over to the 5to1 gears twice, once on the TT that Dallas has now, and on the "beater'" '25 coupe that we have now. Both times with used gears and steering shaft, It all fit perfectly with no problem, most likely because everything was a bit used. I did use drill rod for the pins that was a bit larger than the original ones, maybe .001 or .002, I don't recall just what size it was, but they fit perfectly in the shaft holes with bit of a press fit. The gears fit very well on the pins and took up the slight wear in the gear bores. Worked great for me along with an aftermarket 17" wood rimmed steering wheel. JMHO Dave