MTFCA Forum

I have had sure stop disc brakes on my car for a number of years, and they have worked great. However I recenly had my rear axle out of the car which meant disconecting the brake lines. Now I cannot get them bleed. The master cylinder pumps out the bleeder fine I'm pretty sure I have the air out of it. With a hand vacuum pump I can hold 15# of suction at the caliper, and get no brake fluid. anybody have any secrets to share? I have always found them to be a booger to bleed, but I've had better luck in the past

It sounds like you did everything right and they are a bear! to resolve the problem of removing the lines i used the flexible lines that connect to the wheel cylinders, you just need to unbolt the caliper and lay it aside no more taking the line loose.

Rick

Yup - they are a bitch. Air pocket at the top is what you're dealing with. Bleeder is not at the top like it's supposed to be.

I'm trying to remember what I did on the last few I installed. Been a while. I think I used my dynabeads vibrator on it while sucking the fluid through with a vacuum pump. I might have tilted it - well there's a couple suggestions anyway.

Google surestop brakes model T ford that should take you the Texas T Parts website & scroll down to bleeding tips they mention as stated
you need to move the caliper so the bleeder screw is up to get the air out. I like to use a preassure bleeder ( I have one ) but using a NEW
pump type oil can with a hose that will fit over the end of the bleeder nipple will work. Pump from the caliper to the master cylinder. Then
mark it for DOT 3 so it will not get contaminated. Don't leave brake fluid in it it will collect moisture!
Craig.

Craig
That’s an interesting idea. Thank you

Bleed from the bottom .use a new pump can loosen the fitting putting a plastic tube over it then pump the fluid up to the master cylinder. When fluid gets to the top tighten the bleeder and remove the hose. Should,t take more than 15. Minutes to do both whees

Below is the link to download documentation:

http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merchant ... ode=Safety

Do it from the bottom end!
Gary Tillstrom is a Model T owner and an airplane mechanic. He pumps from the bottom at the caliper. The fluid travels up and so does the air. Attached is a document that he wrote for the Tennessee T's newsletter with his aircraft method. It' easy to read and his instructions are easy to follow.
https://tennesseets.weebly.com/uploads/ ... _and_2.pdf

thanks for the suggestions

I assume you are suggesting a pump like this one?

Craig I been thinking about your oil pump idea. My calipers have 4 bleeders, two up, two down I assume so there will be 2 up on which ever side they are mounted. If you pump from the top, where does the air go? The fluid line in to the caliper is about half way between the ends of the caliper - wouldn't this leave an air pocket on the top? - Or do you open both bleeders and let the caliper fill befor sending fluid up line?

Doug- start at either caliper. Connect the oil can & tube to the lower bleeder valve.
Open the upper bleeder. Pump until fluid exits the bleeder with no air. Close the upper bleeder.
Then move up to the T at the frame where left and right meet.
Loosen the connector on the line the you are working on. Pump until fluid escapes with no air. Close the connector.
Now- move to the caliper on the opposite side of the axle and repeat the process. If done correctly, there should be no air in either side, in other words- no air from the lower bleeder up to the T- on both sides.
Leave the pump connected to #2 caliper. Work your way up the tube and at each connection - loosen it and pump until fluid flows with no air.
Continue until you get to the master cyl, open the bleeder, pump until no air.

thanks makes sense - why didn't i think of that?

The new pump oiler I bought seemed to be working pretty well, until it stopped pumping anything. Cheap junk you find today. Any suggestions on where to find one that will last?

You might try antique shops. I picked up a USA made pump yesterday.