MTFCA Forum

Wondering how far can you bore out the main bearing saddles, on not effect the process of pouring Babbitt?
The concern is if you expose the bolt holes the molten Babbitt will leak out

When the Model A crank is used, you do cut into the top bolt holes just a little. When babbitt is poured, the bolt or locating pins will block most of the hole so only a little babbitt will get in. After the mold is removed, that can be drilled out. If needed, the putty used for blocking and damming when pouring babbitt could be used as needed.

What Mark said. For a stroker crank job you have to hog the T block all the way out to the bolt holes. Before pouring I plug the holes up to prevent leaks.

Thanks for the tips

Just the smallest of a hole will run hot babbitt like a river, the best plug I've found is house hold aluminium foil in the oil holes and exhaust sealer around the out side of the molds.

Kerry,
Aluminum foil I will have, exhaust sealer are you referring to header wrap or gasket material?

Dave

Dav
I use a high temp paste made in Newzealand by CRC, it seals hard as soon as I heat the block saddles, caps or rods with a 1" propane torch before poring babbitt. /attachment]

Thanks Kerry,
This will be my first crack at pouring Babbitt, thanks for the tips

I have been using/doing the same as Kerry, but different brand.

Mark,
Which brand do you use?

Adding new post to bump up.

Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer #80335
Not sure if water base or not, the package does not say, it is water cleanup. I found best is to make sure it is fully dried before pouring the babbitt.

Thanks Mark