MTFCA Forum

So, I bought a HVOL from a vendor at Hershey and just now getting around to installing it. I notice that in addition to missing gaskets the aluminum oil scoop that goes inside the hogshead is also missing. Anyone know the original manufacture of this part.

I have contacted the seller to see if they have the inside scoop as it were but after a couple of months of no response, I am starting to think I am being ignored.

Would anyone know where I could get one?

The piece that goes on the inside is bent sheet metal.(steel)
I can assure you, if you do a little shaping the inside iron like a scoop, you will move plenty of oil without it.

You can get the entire unit from Snyder’s for $83.00 and from Lang’s for $107.00. The first picture, with the copper tube is from Snyder’s. The second photo with the clear tube is from Lang’s. Jim Patrick

The hogshead has to be removed before any drilling... Follow directions

Do you have a photo of the one you purchased?
Bryant

I may have a couple in a cabinet in the barn, never use them, figure more chances of something falling off and going through the engine.

I don’t see a scoop in the parts of either kit, but the prototype I had installed on my 1926 coupe 46 years ago by the inventor, Jess Bonar, has a scoop. Notice that the fittings are tapped directly into the hogshead and the side of the block. Model T pioneer, Jess Bonar who in 1977 was in his 70’s was retired and lived in a trailer park near me in Polk City, Florida. I met him by accident when I was in college attending a get together by my professor who was into Model A’s. I happened to mention my Model T and Jess, immediately came over and we talked T’s for hours. He had a shop at his trailer park and offered to work on my Model T engine. He was good friends with Don Snyder, who offered to help him put it on the market. The rest is history. Mine is one of the very first high volume outside oilers and works great. For an interesting thread regarding Jess, see: www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/313252.html. Jim Patrick

PS. I am assuming that the scoop was eliminated so it could be installed without having to remove the hogshead. Though it works okay without the scoop, it works much much better with the scoop, but the hogshead must be removed to install it.

The inside scoop seems to be a newer version, don't think the old ones had it. Mine didn't and even without it, along with the size of tubing I used, actually think it was getting too much oil to the front. Oil coming off the flywheel is going to have a lot of centrifugal force along with volume.

There may be two versions og the high volume outside oiler. I know that he made the castings for these and many other popular accessories (sold all inventory to Snyder's except the molds) - was still making vintage (rat rod) speedsters this past summer So Lang's & Snyder's may be selling his versions/.
--
--
Texas T's version shows both the adapter casting & underside scoop. --
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/7 ... 1488771789
--

The inside scoop is not necessary. The product that Snyder's offers is my kit. The volume of oil with or without the scoop is the same. Oil is suspended in the sphear while the engine is running. Use Rite Stuff silicone sealer rather than a gasket to seal parts. The 3/8 copper line provides adaquate volume. The 1/2 lines flood the front of the engine and will cause fouling of 1 spark plug with oil that have alot of miles on them. The Snyder kits are e excellent quality and proven on the 1984, 2009, and 2019 Ocean to Ocean Cross Country Tours with no bearing failures on the engines that run them.

I found it necessary to reduce the oil flow with my Texas T oiler to prevent smoking at extended idle. Engine is tight. It's just too much oil. The copper oil line is probably 1/2". I put a restrictor in the line. I've run this car about 15,000 miles, often at 40+ MPH, and the bottom end is still tight.

What is wrong with the original improved oil line Ford supplied?

Nothing, if it's working right and you don't encounter severe operating conditions. A T with stock pistons and rings might do better without an auxiliary oiler. However, "modern" pistons and rings give better oil control, so extra oil, within reason, is unlikely to cause trouble and can help engine longevity, especially in severe service.

Original Smith wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 28, 2023 2:19 pm

What is wrong with the original improved oil line Ford supplied?

The HVOL is a back-up insurance for the original oil line just in case it gets blocked with band lining fuzz thru the years and worse, blockage from oil crud .

A couple of notes that experience has taught me. If using metal tubing it is best to use DOT air brake fittings ( the long nuts) They support the
tubing so it will not be as susceptible to vibration. If you can get steel tubing it will last longer that copper. There is some question about how
much these oilers flow? At road speed they will flow 4 quarts about as fast as you can discover you had a leak if it breaks off. DOT air brake compression nut
Craig.

Racer_22 wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 28, 2023 7:36 am

The inside scoop is not necessary. The product that Snyder's offers is my kit. The volume of oil with or without the scoop is the same. Oil is suspended in the sphear while the engine is running. Use Rite Stuff silicone sealer rather than a gasket to seal parts. The 3/8 copper line provides adaquate volume. The 1/2 lines flood the front of the engine and will cause fouling of 1 spark plug with oil that have alot of miles on them. The Snyder kits are e excellent quality and proven on the 1984, 2009, and 2019 Ocean to Ocean Cross Country Tours with no bearing failures on the engines that run them.

I picked up one of your high flow kits at Hershey this past October. Is there a rule for the exact placement of the oil funnel on the hogshead? Just trying to make sure before I start cutting.
Bryant

Bryant... Weren't there detailed installation instructions with your purchase?.... Instructions will outline placement of the hogshead pickup bracket... Be sure to use the 3/8 diameter steel line with the neck style connectors to help save oil burning in number one cylinder.

I see now it may have been missing. I was thinking maybe there was a template. Any ideas where to get one?

Bryant wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 28, 2023 8:59 pm

I see now it may have been missing. I was thinking maybe there was a template. Any ideas where to get one?

Here is the link to Texas T Parts Hi Flow, the template is on the last pages.
PDF file:
http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/manuals/T3081-HVOL.pdf


Here's where I placed mine on a '26 hogshead.
No defector under, so no nuts for loose parts either. Tapped the hogshead and used machine screws to fasten, made a gasket to fit too, along with gasket cement.

Bryant.... You can give Lang's or Snyder's a call and see if they can be of any assistance...... I see Dan posted before I did, You can easily follow what he posted for installation.

Thanks fellas! I will see where these leads take me.
Bryant

About 10:00…

Bryant wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 28, 2023 8:59 pm

I see now it may have been missing. I was thinking maybe there was a template. Any ideas where to get one?

Snyder's usually includes the instructions for download when looking at the product details. Texas T does also

Here are the instructions for Snyders' version --
--
I also include Texas T instructions above, here they are again

Thanks! After a few try’s with the print size I believe I have a match for a good template Bryant

Bryant,

I put one of these oil lines on my ‘24 Touring. Like any projects, a little thought & consideration goes a long way. When placing the inlet end casting on the hogshead, don’t just go by the paper template to locate the holes to be drilled into the hogshead. Locate one middle hole, drill, tap, then install one screw to hold in place. Then drill & tap second middle hole. Place screw in that hole and snug up both screws. The reason I say this is that the aluminum casting will conform to the hogshead. Finish the other four, remove to apply gasket w/sealer and screw tightly into place.
Good luck!