MTFCA Forum

Would a 7x14 dual axle open landscape trailer be safe enough to haul a Model T touring car?

Yes it will. But the removal of "loose stuff" and top securement is crucial. Maybe even removal of the top, hood and windshield would be safer.
I hauled my '24 Coupe home on a 7x12' single axle landscape trailer and it handled the car fine. All loose stuff went in the tow vehicle.

Steve

It would seem to be much different than the Uhaul upen car trailer. I have pulled my 23 touring 2 times with the Uhaul.
The only issue I would see as far as ability would be the deck structure and how well it supports tour touring.
Top up. 65 to 70 mph behind our Suburban uncovered.2 hrs each way.

My goal is still for an enclosed trailer for longer periods of travel to help avoid weather and prying eyes when traveling like to the beach for a week.

Covers and windshield stress and how to tie down/secure to the trailer will now be the subject of conversation.

Agreed: this would mainly be for short transports, such as going to Dearborn for the OCF! I’ve rented both the open UHaul as well as an enclosed trailer, so I figured I’d just buy my own open trailer and modify it as I like. I’ve seen them with a battery operated winch attached to the front rail to pull the T up nice and straight and easy!

We transport a lot of small military vehicles to local shows as well as significant distances. Tops come off prior to loading and windshields get folded down. If not, the car acts as a parachute, stress on the fabric top and road debris up on the grills, radiators and windshields. Expect some damage as well as paint rubbing from straps.
We installed a small, cheap ATV winch bolted to the trailer deck and use it to winch up and off the vehicle so we are not driving up short 4 ft ramps and then slaming on the brakes.
Not much weight to speak of, but if you load straight up, all your engine weight will be on the tongue, so balance the car front and back as well as you can. Hand brake on, wheels chocked and four rachet straps, one one each corner pulling front, back and some sideways. You will be surprised how much these vehicles will bounce around on a trailer and get sideways.

I would strongly look at renting or borrowing or purchasing an enclosed trailer, but I know the rear door height is an issue for a T. When you consider all the work needed to load and unload on an open trailer it might be worth it. I am always jealous of the guys with the enclosed trailers driving home after an event while I am still removing shovels, gas cans, seat cushions, tops, windshields, etc. And, if the weather is bad, enclosed is great. And, it's always an extra storage option back at home.

When I get my WWI ambulance project completed, I will be looking at one. In fact, I need to start looking at trailer door heights before I build my body so that I do not create one an 1" too tall.

Wind resistance & buffeting will be different based on your chosen tow vehicle. Our Suburban blocks the air really good when open towing the touring and also with our 6 X 10 utility tilt trailer, an open bed pickup truck is not going to provide the same, but with a camper top would be better and the further the gap between your trailer and tow vehicle, the more wind resistance you will have pushing against the T, and it reduces you fuel economy on your tow vehicle as well.

We use a Big Tex 16'? dual axle landscape trailer for hauling our cars- works great. 6000 lb capacity electric brakes, so no worries. 14' might be a little short when you fold up the tailgate, as it may hit a folded down top. Just something to be aware of. I modified the tall tailgate/ramp so that it folds down in the middle to give a little more clearance for a top. The ramp is plenty long to load a car- no need for extra ramps- even when loading our vintage sprint car that has a short wheelbase and low belly pan. Ours is just a tad bit over 12' inside the box from front to back and a foot or two more would be nice, but not necessary. The tail on my daughters Mercury speedster comes within a few inches of the tailgate so be aware. The length could be an issue for hauling a depot hack etc.
We tow it with a 3/4 ton suburban with our touring in it but have towed with an S-10 pickup with a speedster in it. We fold the windshield on the touring and the top has a boot on it when we tow and all is good in that department- no need to remove windshield etc.
On edit: our trailer is rated for 6000 # and AFAIK thats the standard rating for a Big Tex with dual axles.

Hi Bill,
Landscape trailer or utillity trailer? I'm assuming it is a basic angle iron, wood deck, expanded metal tailgate model? If so I unfortunetly
have some experiance with mine to share that may or maynot apply. I have a 16' Big Tex single axle of that type that I picked up for a song &
dance because my 18' tandem diamond plate dovetail is worthless for hauling anything other than cars & tractors. I figured I could haul model
Ts on it if needed & I suppose I could in a pinch. The tailgate is too short for comfortable loading but tall enough that it turns into a parachute
at 65 mph so I get the same lousy milage loaded or empty. As bad if not worse than the much heavyer tandem. I would suggest getting a pair
of long ramps if it does'nt come with them. I would install a low means of tying down as the top rail will let the T float around. Make sure the
wood is good where the wheels set. As mentioned by Robert find a way to meassure the tongue weight with the T on the trailer & mark or block
the trailer so you dont get to little or to much weight on it. ( this goe's for any trailer as it is easy to just tie up to the front rail & that in many
cases will overload the tongue ) Check with your insurance carrier as many will not cover your trailer if in a accident.
Craig.

I would define "landscape" trailer. My every day trailer is a tandem axle 6x16 foot wooden deck traler with slide out ramps. Initial ramps were 4 ft long and it was a steep incline, so we went to 6ft ramps. They store under the trailer and allow for overhang , but do not allow a backstop like the entire rear ramp type.
When I think of a landscape trailer, I think the expanded steel mesh bottom and rear fold down tail gate and not a wooden deck.

And, stake pockets along the side in various locations allow for multiple strap hook up spots. I have some members of our military vehicle club that only have one jeep and only use the trailer for that one jeep and mark the trailer for wheel chock locations, cut the straps to length, etc but if you are going to use the trailer for different vehicles or other uses, think versitality when you select options. Some wooden deck trailers have side rails and some do not, your preference.

I have a few comments. First, Vehicles should be tied down BELOW the spring suspension. This allows the body to move up and down while holding the axles/wheels firmly. Scares the heck out of my wife when she is following me. This removes movement in the tie down straps, reducing the possibility of the straps disconnecting. I recommend "cross tying" at least the front axle. I have 4 short, 1" nylon straps with eyes on both ends. Spend the money and buy "Hoisting Rated" straps. They are stronger and less likely to be cut by the metal you put them around. I "choke" (as opposed to basket) around the front axle just outside the spring perch. Tie down right side of the car to the left side of the trailer. AND Left side of the car to the right side of the trailer. I do the same on the rear axle with the short straps around the axle housing near the pumpkin. I recommend using chocks fastened to the trailer deck for positioning the front wheels for proper tongue weight. Cris crossing the tie downs keeps the car from moving sideways. Pull the front tie downs forward and the rear tie downs rearward. This keeps the car from moving forward and backward.

Something many do not think about: Floor boards. I have had floor boards blown out of place and was lucky enough they did not work out the bottom. IF your floor boards are NOT secured in place, think about taking them out and putting them in the tow vehicle, storage box, or fasten them in place.

Concerning winches. Most winches are rated for use with 2 part cable. Meaning, the cable comes off the winch, goes to a "pulley" (Sheave block) and back up to the winch area to a dead end point. This splits the load on the winch in half. Thus, most winches rated at 2000lbs can only pull 1000lbs on a single part (straight cable). So, if your winch is bogging down when pulling, buy a sheave block and two part it. Horror Freight sells them for little money.

Do NOT pull directly/only on the front axle. There is a chance you might pull the wishbone ball out of the pan socket. It's better to use a small strap around the front cross member/spring mount. When using the cross member, I have found it to be OK to go around the cross member and axle at the same time.

Lastly, CHOCK your trailer wheels ANY TIME the trailer is NOT hooked up to the tow vehicle. DON'T let a loaded trailer roll away from you.

Before anyone attacks me: I operated cranes for 44 years. I have also hauled a TT from Illinois to Colorado (1100 miles) without any tie down problems.

Many of the old timers, know this stuff. This is for the newer people and those that seem to be having problems they can't figure out.

Good Luck!

I'm jealous of people with enclosed trailers, but can't justify the cost. Having said that, I've never had a problem with our RPU on our open trailer. I don't have a top boot, so button up the side curtains instead to prevent the top being a parachute. Our speed limit for towing is 90kmh (about 55mph). I also learnt that the floorboards needed to be secured in place too. Dan is right about considering the size before you buy. I thought our trailer was just right for shifting T's... then we bought a TT, and it's suddenly a bit small... even the RPU overhangs the back axle more than a tourer body so I very marginal when I had it in my parents enclosed trailer.

If the ‘tourer’ you’ll be transporting on an open trailer has a rubber bulb to actuate the horn….remove the rubber bulb before leaving on a trip….and don’t ask me why I know this

My single axle trailer is quite adequate for a T.
I have built and sold 5 of these 6' x 12' tilting trailers. The key to loading is the restraining bar at the front. I drive the cars up the tilted deck to the bar. A good handbrake will hold the car there while I get out to lower the deck.
Again the bar is key. Two short 2000kg tie downs around the front axle tie the car forward, and DOWN. There is no real load on the axle/ radius rod. All the tie downs do is hold the tyres against the bar. Similar tiedowns go round the outer ends of the rear axle. These do the work of holding the car from going forward on the deck.
I have used this combination to haul T's to rallies aĺ over the country. I have had two blow-outs. It was just a matter of pulling over in a convenient spot and fitting the spare. Absolutely no dramas.
My cars are all open cars except for a 27 Tudor. I have corflute panels to zip tie over the windscreens, the headlights and radiator. The tops are folded, or in the case of Henrietta, removed and put in the pick up.

It does not have to be complicated.
A llan from down under.

Tie downs have been a concern of mine for a long time when securing a T. I have several cars that I haul on both open and closed trailers and the tie down issue applies to both and open and closed trailers. For years I was happy to hook to the front axle and then the rear axle. Never had a problem and always felt secure. I had one of my T's on my lift and noticed that if I hooked to the axle, I really was relying on the ball of the wishbone. I changed my whole tie down process and went to the wheel basket for all my cars. It seems to me that the strain is now moved to the wheels down to the trailer floor. Right or wrong, I feel better. Another reason I went to the basket is I have a large car (Marmon) that has a bejour? lubricating system. That means there are 1/8 inch tubes running along the axles to all chassis joints. I did not want to take the chance of crushing one with a tie down squeezing on the axle. Just my .02.

Wow, lots of great info that I wasn’t aware of! Where to attach the tie downs on the front of the T in particular. I too always used the front axle, but I’m wondering what is meant by the wheel basket? Also making sure there wasn’t too much weight forward on the trailer tongue. And I was indeed referring to the landscape trailers with the wire grated ramps that fold up: never realized they would catch air or be in the way of the folded top! Lots to think about here: thanks again everyone!

I always put a front cover over the radiator to prevent air from entering through the engine compartment, that lifts the floor boards and bellows the top. None of that happens if the front opening of the radiator is blocked off! One down side is it is not very aero dynamic!

My solution to the problem of pulling out the wishbone is to use 4 straps. One forward and the other back from each axle. I put D rings in the 4 corners of the trailer and 2 D rings along the rail opposite the oil drain plug. Then strap the front wheel pulling forward from the point just toward the center of the axle next to the spring perch. Pull to the corner on that side of the trailer with a strap with 2 hooks. The other strap goes from the same point on the axle to the center D ring. That way the spring and the axle come together at that point and the tension is equalized. Same for the rear axle where I put the straps right next to the wheel backing plate. No tension on the pumpkin nor on the wishbone ball because tension is equal front and back and side to side from each axle. I put the top down with a boot and put something heavy like a gallon water bottle on the floorboard. For the windshield on the earlier ones I fold down the top part of the windshield and for the later ones I tilt the top section inward against the steering wheel so the wind won't blow it against the wheel and break the glass. I have taken it from San Diego to Yosemite or to the redwoods in one day. Or to Moab Utah another trip or to Sierra Vista Arizona. Also it has been to Death Valley. It would go for more than one day on the trailer, but don't usually go on tours farther from home than one day If I were going to stay overnight I would want a closed trailer.
Norm

What kind of oil should I put in my model T?

The stuff you drain out of that tank at the closest restaurant. Makes your car smell like chicken.

Cotton, Kevlar, or wood bands?

For what it's worth - In the 70's, when we did a LOT of touring and traveling with the car on an open trailer (whichever car it was), Dad always put the top down, snugged one of those thin straps around the top to keep it from flopping / ballooning, car facing FORWARD (as that's how they were designed to brave the winds at 35-40 MPH), folded the windshield down, ignition key in the right front pocket, and put the floorboards in the tow vehicle. Car always got to wherever in one piece on an open trailer, towed behind (usually) an LTD or a pickup, everywhere we went a'touring. 4 soft cotton ropes (3/4" rings a bell) and a cloth to protect the paint securing each wheel down to the trailer. Same treatment to both the front and rear axle. Drove 55-65 to wherever we went. Car always arrived in one piece with no damage.

I've towed my T's with both an open, and an enclosed trailer. I personally like the enclosed trailers better. I know all my parts will be there when I open the door, even if they are on the floor. The enclosed trailer also acts as a "garage" with safe storage. I can usually get a good nights sleep knowing that my car is secure. Also most of my cars, 5 of 8, are brass cars, and I don't have to spend too much time polishing.

Is there an advantage of having a steel deck instead of wood? Also, in the earlier cars with no battery cage, I learned that if you don’t remove it prior to trailering, it will bounce around enough to loosen the battery terminals.

Belliott3 wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 07, 2024 6:51 am

Is there an advantage of having a steel deck instead of wood? Also, in the earlier cars with no battery cage, I learned that if you don’t remove it prior to trailering, it will bounce around enough to loosen the battery terminals.

I am by no means a trailering expert, but my family has a steel diamond plate decked trailer that I use sometimes. I very much dislike it. With old car narrow tires, and inevitable leaks, the deck can be down right slippery. When buying a trailer myself, a wood deck will be what I seek. Plus, with a wood deck and unusual loads, blocking could be secured to the deck with screws or bolts. Just my two cents.

I was thinking the same thing about it being slippery, especially if the deck was damp,

Find the $$$$ to get an enclosed trailer. I use a 20' Kaufmann to carry 1912 touring or 1910 Buick. Car tops must come down, but just down, no need to disassemble, windshield goes in if one is careful. The big selling point is that inside my trailer is a complete set of tools, spare parts, a work bench with vise, deck chairs, place for suitcases etc etc etc. Its is possible to repair virtually anything while on the road, serious peace of mind, not to mention serious convenience. Goes far beyond just the transport of the car, itself.

Bill,

After all this discussion about straps and all the other "stuff", has anyone actually asked you what the trailer's max. load rating is?
Otherwise, just saying, "7x14 dual axle open landscape trailer" doesn't really tell us much. I've seen some dual axle trailers with some kinda' small wheels/tires.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the proper way to tie down a trailered vehicle. I would never tie down any towed vehicle without compressing the suspension a bit. I don't want the car to bounce around. Many years ago I was involved in NASCAR short-track racing, and every single race car was strapped down by attaching the tie-down straps to the frame of the car. In fact, I don't think that I have ever seen a race car tied down any other way.

That’s a good point Jerry! I don’t have a particular trailer in mind, but currently looking around. I’ll be sure to check the GVWR on any potential prospects.

Better idea is to check the size of the horse that is pulling the wagon. Not how much s&@t the wagon will hold.

Two of our club members had their hoods fly off, they have to be removed or tied down.

Other club members have lost seat cushions and floor boards.

John Codman wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 07, 2024 11:19 am

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the proper way to tie down a trailered vehicle. I would never tie down any towed vehicle without compressing the suspension a bit. I don't want the car to bounce around. Many years ago I was involved in NASCAR short-track racing, and every single race car was strapped down by attaching the tie-down straps to the frame of the car. In fact, I don't think that I have ever seen a race car tied down any other way.

These aren't NASCAR racers.

I'd be willing to bet that a Model T suspension has way more bounce/excursion than a NASCAR racer suspension does.

In 23 years of ownership I have trailered my T exactly twice. The first time was when I bought it. I was quite the newbie and had never ridden in or driven a Model T before. The seller gave me a 10 minute ride and explained how to drive it, then he drove it up on my borrowed open car trailer. I don’t remember how I tied it down, but it made it the 60 miles back to my house. Driving it for the first time was backing it off the trailer, then going up my driveway. All was going well until I got to the 90 degree bend in my driveway, and I was going a little too fast. I pressed the brake pedal and it moved a bit before it stopped solid, the car not slowing at all. I panicked and drove straight into a bush! Fortunately, nothing damaged but my pride. I later discovered that during the trailer trip, the top floorboard has dislodged and slid down on top of the lower board, and being under the floor mat I didn’t notice it. The brake petal foot pad bottomed out on the double thick floorboard before the brakes applied. First of many Model T lessons learned the hard way.
I got most of the interior restored, then work and life got in the way and it sat under cover for almost 15 years until retirement when I finally had time to pull the cover off in 2021. After spending a full year installing new wheels, new radiator, rebuilding the engine, differential, running gear and suspension, in 2022 I had 30 miles on the rebuilt car when I decided to take it to a car show in our local Southern California mountains where I have a cabin, 130 miles away. I borrowed a friends 20 foot open car trailer for my second Model T trailer adventure. I researched this forum and got lots of excellent information about Model T trailering. I probably over-did it, but I had no issues on the 260 mile round trip.
All 4 wheels were tied down with wheel baskets. The front axle was tied down at the perches with straps running rearward to a center D ring. The rear axle was tied down at the outer ends with straps running forward to the trailer sides. This way the wishbone ball was in compression so it couldn’t pop out. Belt and suspenders I know, but since I apparently only trailer the T every 20 years or so, I didn’t mind the extra time for peace of mind. I put the top down, and since I didn’t have a boot I wrapped the top with two long cam buckle tie down straps. I tied the back doors together by putting a bungee cord across the body attached to the door handles. Same in the front, but attaching the bungee to the brake lever on the drivers side. I turned a rubber wheel chock upside down, placed it on the upper floorboards and clamped it it the brake pedal to keep the floorboards in place (lesson learned!). I made a plywood radiator cover that sits on top of the radiator tank on foam pads, and I have felt where it touches the brass frame. Notches on the sides of the plywood engage with a bungee cord that is attached to the hood handles to keep the radiator cover in place. I made covers for the windshield, the side lamps and the headlights out of 1 inch insulation foam board and attached them with plastic stretch wrap, securing the ends of the stretch wrap with clear packing tape so it wouldn’t unwind in the wind.
Like I said, I know it was overkill but I didn’t want to take any chances. If I was going to do much trailering, I would definitely lean towards an enclosed trailer.

I forgot just how much thought goes' into towing. Trailer capacity, tie downs, tow vehicle, decking, ramps, securing things on the car being
towed. Overall weight & brakes seem to be somewhat left out. I only use my pickup for towing about 5% of the time I drive it so for economic
reasons I have a V6 manual trans 1/2 ton. When I tow the fire truck on the tandem dovetail I'm within 100# of the max towing capacity. I don't recommend pushing the limit that much as it will slow you down going up hills & push you down them. On that trailer I have 4 wheel brakes
that will by themselves stop the hole rig if needed. I have a professionally built custom single axle trailer that I pull my speedster with that
only weighs in at 500# and tows very well. I guess what I'm saying is make sure your tow rig and your driving ability is safe enough for the task. Craig.

Craig,

Excellent points. Many, commercially built, trailers have either 3500lb or 6000lb axles. Trailer axles available: 2000lb, 3500lb, 6000lb, 7000lb, 8000lb, 10000lb, and 12000lb. I have a half ton pick up. My total towing weight with the TT and trailer is 5000lb on a twin axle trailer. If I move up to the 6000lb axles, the law says I need a 3/4 ton truck based on the Gross Vehicle Ratings, and it doesn't matter if you're towing less weight or not. Check your vehicles' GVW ratings for towing capacity AND GVW load ratings.

NOTE: In Craig's photo, there are 2 spare tires. As wise choice for a single axle trailer but a tad bit of overkill as the possibilities of BOTH tires going flat is not high, but still a good idea. My son taught me: IF you have a double axle trailer, ALWAYS carry 2 spares (at least). The reason: IF you run over something that will flatten a tire, you have a great potential for flattening BOTH tires on that side.

NICE trailer Craig. A real beauty.

Good Luck

Forgive me if I’m wrong, and I mean no offense to anyone, but I was always told that one should never tow a vehicle on a single axle trailer because if, while going down the highway at 55 mph and one of your tires blows out, it could cause a lot of damage to trailer and T; any thoughts on that?

I suppose that could be true. But anything loaded on a single axle trailer could be at risk should a blowout occur, right?
I guess it's chance all the single axle trailer owners and I am willing to take.

Steve

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 07, 2024 2:22 pm

John Codman wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 07, 2024 11:19 am

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the proper way to tie down a trailered vehicle. I would never tie down any towed vehicle without compressing the suspension a bit. I don't want the car to bounce around. Many years ago I was involved in NASCAR short-track racing, and every single race car was strapped down by attaching the tie-down straps to the frame of the car. In fact, I don't think that I have ever seen a race car tied down any other way.

These aren't NASCAR racers.

I'd be willing to bet that a Model T suspension has way more bounce/excursion than a NASCAR racer suspension does.

I'm curious - why were we not NASCAR racers? The tracks where we raced were all certified By NASCAR, we all had to be NASCAR members or they wouldn't allow us in the pits, and we were not allowed to race at any non-NASCAR sanctioned event without NASCAR permission. There are NASCAR divisions that are not Cup cars, Craftsman Trucks, nor Xfinity series. We raced in the Modified/Sportsman divisions. The modifieds are still very popular in the northeast and a heck of a lot faster then the top three divisions (on short tracks). The carbureted Modifieds were so fast that they were required to use restrictor plates at Louden NH which is a flat mile. The top divisions used them only at Daytona and Talledega. I will also venture to say that at least the right front suspension of the cars that we raced was stiffer then any Model T that was ever built. Suspension on a high-banked 1/4 mile track such as the now long-gone Norwood (MA) Arena was a whole different animal then what you see On NASCAR TV races.

For the record, I am not upset by your comment, but your last line actually reinforces my original argument. The last thing that I want is something flopping around on or inside my trailer.

John Codman wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 08, 2024 2:21 pm

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 07, 2024 2:22 pm

John Codman wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 07, 2024 11:19 am

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the proper way to tie down a trailered vehicle. I would never tie down any towed vehicle without compressing the suspension a bit. I don't want the car to bounce around. Many years ago I was involved in NASCAR short-track racing, and every single race car was strapped down by attaching the tie-down straps to the frame of the car. In fact, I don't think that I have ever seen a race car tied down any other way.

These aren't NASCAR racers.

I'd be willing to bet that a Model T suspension has way more bounce/excursion than a NASCAR racer suspension does.

I'm curious - why were we not NASCAR racers? The tracks where we raced were all certified By NASCAR, we all had to be NASCAR members or they wouldn't allow us in the pits, and we were not allowed to race at any non-NASCAR sanctioned event without NASCAR permission. There are NASCAR divisions that are not Cup cars, Craftsman Trucks, nor Xfinity series. We raced in the Modified/Sportsman divisions. The modifieds are still very popular in the northeast and a heck of a lot faster then the top three divisions (on short tracks). The carbureted Modifieds were so fast that they were required to use restrictor plates at Louden NH which is a flat mile. The top divisions used them only at Daytona and Talledega. I will also venture to say that at least the right front suspension of the cars that we raced was stiffer then any Model T that was ever built. Suspension on a high-banked 1/4 mile track such as the now long-gone Norwood (MA) Arena was a whole different animal then what you see On NASCAR TV races.

For the record, I am not upset by your comment, but your last line actually reinforces my original argument. The last thing that I want is something flopping around on or inside my trailer.

By "these", I was referring to Model Ts.

I don't mind the T flopping around, as long as its flopping does not un-tension a ratchet strap, allowing it to unhook. I appreciate that you're not upset by my comment. That was never my intent.

I have always used a full floor single axle trailer for my various model T's. I have built the same trailer for others. The blowout fears are just that.in 35 years I have had two blowouts, at highway speeds, with never a drama. One was with a ton load of swap meet parts and tools. My wife asked what the bang was. We just rolled to a stop and fitted the spare. The second was more recent, thousands of km into a four day tow to a national rally. I had to drive a few hundred feet before I could pull off the road far enough to be safe when fitting the spare. Again, no dramas pulling up/controlling the stop.

I do use load adjustable electric brakes. I do run light truck radial tyres. I do load the trailer to achieve proper weight distribution. I do appreciate being able to wheel the trailer into some impossibly tight spots in my yard and at Motels, all by myself.

Allan from down under.

Two Spares is a result of past experience. I have had two flats more than once on a trip. I loaned my tandem trailer to the XW & HIL once & it
came back with three new tires on it. I don't run trailer tires more than five years regardless of tread depth, tires are cheaper then body work.
Craig.