MTFCA Forum

I would like to upgrade the brake light switch setup on my 27 T. Currently it has a switch mounted on the crossmember behind the transmission and there is stiff wire going from the switch through a hole drilled in the brake pedal. The set up is not too dependable and somertimes stays on after the brake is released. I have seen some negative feedback on the type that mounts to the Bendix cover and just wanted to know if anyone here has any sggestions as to what to use. Is the one that Fun Projects used to manufacture (or one similar) availabble from any of the vendors?

Negative feedback??... Just remember there are three stories... Positive, negative, and then the truth. As far as I'm aware, Fun Projects , is no longer available because fun projects no longer exists. There may be some sales of that on eBay..... The original style Bendix mounted switch works fine as long as it is securely mounted to the Bendix cover.

Thanks Robert.

I use the 1928-29 Ford Model A switch mounted to the bottom screw on transmission door with a stiff wire between it and the brake pedal. Did the same on my 1920 Dodge. Have seen this used on several other Ts. Have had no issues even with it mounted with just the one screw.

Both my T's have bendix mount switch they actually work flawlessly . Just get your activating adjustment set then secure .

It would be fairly easy to duplicate the Fun Projects design. I would change the push switch/linkage to a simple pull type switch which would eliminate the need for the lever linkage. Pull switches are available on the internet, but, probably not in the big box stores

Patents could be an issue if you make one then sell it.

Art Mirtes

I have the type switch you have and it works great. Your problem is most likely that your pedal doesn't always come all the way back. Try installing a strong spring from the pedal to the cross member to pull it back all the way. I have Rocky Mountain brakes, the ones made in Temecula Ca. The kit comes with a spring to pull the pedal back.
Norm

The simple one fitted to the inspection cover works well. Lang's sells this style, a copy of original one. Easy to adjust the location of the push switch as it is held with a single nut, adjust to outward travel of the brake pedal.

Of course you have to remove to inspect the oil screen, but no big deal if you insulate the terminal wires to prevent contact, or remove the yellow wire from the gang terminal on the fire wall, that shuts off all DC voltage.

As for the Bendix cover version, the contacts and insulation washers in that made in foreign land are poor, and have had one cook itself when connected to dual brake lights, too much amp or something, didn't last long.

some options
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/2 ... 1334538884
https://www.cool386.com/brake/brake.html

Can't remember which vendor I got this switch from but no drilling required and very easy to adjust. The bracket just clamps on the frame. For me, was the best option I found.

I built one from scratch since none of the commercially made switches suit RHD drive cars (except the FP one), or in the case of the wire actuated pull switches, are unreliable.

Thanks to everyone for their input and ideas. I will get something working before spring touring weather.

Did you find what you want, David?
Tom M. wanted a Fun Projects switch, so I looked thru my spare parts and found this one I no longer need. It is used, and worked. I went a different route when I changed wiring. I offered it to Tom a few minutes ago...not sure if he found something else. Let me know if you are still looking and if he doesn't need it, I'll let you know. Best to reply to me thru email. addufo at g mail dot com. without all those spaces of course and the usual internet symbol.

Dave

Simple always works best just as the original aftermarket was made. I guess it’s why it’s been around for so long. There is some type of downside on all of them but the simple ones seem to work the best overall.

This quality Hella switch is readily available in Australia. I fix the switch body to a small bracket on the frame rail, and connect the spring to the pedal arm with a simple length of bent wire .
The position of the bend is used to set the "pull" on the switch.

Otherwise, I use a switch like the on Mikey 1968 shows . I have a few metal bodied brake light switches from 70"s 80's Japanese cars in my stash. These mount in a clamped on bracket like his. The beauty of these is the stem of the switch is threaded so the switch can be adjusted in or out to set its activation.

You could use a more modern plastic bodied brake light switch but these clip into a fixed bracket set at just the right height in the car. You would need to make your bracket adjustable to set the switch correctly.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

How about a brake switch from a Model A?

I use the 1928-29 Ford Model A switch

So do I but mine is mounted under the floor board so it doesn't get in the way when working on the trans.

Oh for the Fun Projects brake light switch kit. The price was worth the bracket alone.

Saw this on Amazon for $8. Wouldn't it be easy to bend a piece of aluminum (steel, brass, etc.) to a not quite 90°, attach the switch to the horizontal and place the vertical under the top-left bolt on the ball cap (like the fun projects switch?) You could use a piece of safety wire to attach the switch spring to the pedal. With the switch mounted that way it wouldn't interfere with removing the tranny cover.

I used to have a Fun Projects switch but removed it (sold) when I had disc brakes installed. The disc brakes use a switch activated by hydraulic pressure.

I too installed the disk brakes on my 26 Touring. Since I had that nifty switch that clamps on the frame (see above post) I decided to keep it and run the pressure switch in parallel. That way, if one of the switches fails, the other will still activate the light.....or if I lose pressure and push the pedal further to activate the original brake, the light will still activate.