MTFCA Forum

Has anyone had a problem reinstalling the rear hubs on a 26/27 coupe after installing new brake linings? My hubs fit very tight over the brake shoes after relining, I can turn the hubs with a lot of effort, any thoughts?
Thanks
Jerry

Is the spring, 2570C, installed? It holds the two halves tight against the cam, away from the drum. Jim Patrick

PS. Although my coupe was built in March, 1926, The brakes are like the 1927 drawing. With the 4 retainer clips that hold the brake lining against the plate. My clips were worn off and I had to get 4 new ones and rivet them on the plate.

Lining too thick?. Check in the drum before installing. Must be round also.
Worn hubs/axle tapers move the drums in further. How much do the drums overhang the backing plates?
If a bit narrow, the edge of the lining can be radius-ed to better match the drum.

Clean the inside of the drum & spray a light coat of flat black. Reassemble. Turn the drum. Remove & look where the paint has rubbed.

Jerry: I recently did this overhaul which included installing new linings on original brake shoes, and replacing the E-brake cams. Everything fit well and turned freely after the install.

Are the brake cams in the fully released position? Shoes correctly aligned and free to 'float' against the axle housing endplates, retaining clips inside the 'lip' at the edge of the shoes and not binding. Are the linings correct thickness? (I bought mine from Lang's as original replacement parts). Linings tight against the shoes at all points, no rivet head protruding. Shoes not out of round or twisted. Return springs correct and holding shoe lugs firmly against brake cams. Shoes on same side as originally found? I found it took some effort to get the new linings tight against the surface of the shoe. I used a radiator clamp around the outside of the lining (after placed a block between the cam lugs of the shoe) to tighten the lining against the shoe before drilling rivet holes and riveting.

Maybe rub some chalk over the linings and try to fit the wheel and drum to see if you can find a high spot where the chalk is rubbed? New linings are a close fit with new cams, but the wheels do turn freely.

Best, jb

Also - are the brake bands original or repros ? Some time ago the repros pressure points where the cam operates was too thick resulting in the same condition.

Thanks for all the suggestions, the bands are original, repo linings from Snyders, shoes float on backing plate, I will recheck tightness of lining to band, will advise what I find!

Sometimes the leading edge of the lining needs to be tapered, by grinding off some, if it stands up too much.




And be sure the shoe edge is tucked under the 4 retaining tabs to keep it close to the backing plate.

From what I've read the new linings are thicker than the originals. I had to sand mine to get them to fit. Of course check all the stuff written above but I bet you'll have to sand them down a bit.

Dan and Robert's experience mirrors mine. It's also worth noting that many brake shoes are not round and the lining has high and low spots relative to the drum surface. I used Prussian blue to discover the rubbing spots and proceeded from there.

I too put new linings on my 1927 last year and I also had to sand the linings down, original bands, NOS drums, new cams, NOS Scandinavia linings.
I marked up the face of the linings with a pencil and sanded until the pencil marks were gone, repeat until a snug fit then I took a candle and coated the the drum with soot, put everything back together, turn the drum using the wheel a billion times with slight bake pressure, take it apart, sand the high spot, repeat, took all day.

I installed new linings on my "26" two years ago in June, they were pretty tight.. Then I just drove the thing... by mid July, they were a good fit. I do agree with checking how the edge of the drum matches up with the back plate. You might have to shim hub out a bit to get a better fit.