MTFCA Forum

I'm finally getting to put the axel in. Thanks to Scott I'm making sure to line up the square blot on the spring with the square hole on the frame. Here is what I plan to do to get the car on it's own wheels so as not to stress anything

1. Took the spring off and made sure the square bolt lined up with the square hole in the frame.
2. While I held it in place I had my wife tighten the two nuts and bracket that hold it on. (Yes Angie is at school so i didn't have my go to Mech)
3. Then I lifted the axel up and put the spring shackles and nuts on. Bolt ends to the rear of the car.
4. Tightened the spring perches with a breaker bar.
5. Checked all bolts and put cotter pins in. Rechecked for cotter pins. (I left out the passenger side tie rod cotter pin because I bet I have to make an adjustment)

This is what I think I should do next:
1. Repack the wheel bearings and put the wheels on.
2. Let the car down off the jack stands.
3. Put the floor jack under the wishbone ball and attach it to the oil pan. Wire the bolts together.
4. Attach the steering rod.
5. Role the car back and forth a few times.
6. start the alignment process.

Should I be good with this? My concern is the wishbone or wheels first?

There should be a thin About 1/4 inch thick pad between the crossmember and the spring
The spring should have a bolt with a square head which sits high enough to go through the pad and the frame. This will pad the frame from getting twisted and cracking from metal fatigue. The nuts are then tightened evenly on both sides of the spring or on the later models front and back. The spring perches should be installed with the indentation on the top should face the front of the spring and shackles put in place. On the front axle it is usually not necessary to use a spring spreader because the weight of the engine will be enough to push it down. If the engine is out of the car you might need a spreader or weight on the front of the frame. On the earlier models the wishbone goes over the axle but later it is below the axle and much stronger that way.
Norm

Norman Kling wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 23, 2024 8:34 pm

There should be a thin About 1/4 inch thick pad between the crossmember and the spring
The spring should have a bolt with a square head which sits high enough to go through the pad and the frame. This will pad the frame from getting twisted and cracking from metal fatigue. The nuts are then tightened evenly on both sides of the spring or on the later models front and back. The spring perches should be installed with the indentation on the top should face the front of the spring and shackles put in place. On the front axle it is usually not necessary to use a spring spreader because the weight of the engine will be enough to push it down. If the engine is out of the car you might need a spreader or weight on the front of the frame. On the earlier models the wishbone goes over the axle but later it is below the axle and much stronger that way.
Norm

Thanks Norm I did everything you said. I forgot to say I had the rubber pad. Appreciate the write up I want to make sure I did this right.

I would do the wheels first, then lower the T. Then with a little forward push from an assistant or just your leg on the axle or tire, the wishbone ball most likely will seat itself with out needing to be jacked in place. Jacking up is my plan B.

My only comment is to make sure the dimples in the perches are to the rear for proper caster.

See this diagram for proper perch orientation. The axle should lean back to give the proper caster angle. The nuts and studs that clamp the wishbone ball should be wired together, do not use cotter pins because the studs could still back out.

CudaMan wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 10:01 am

See this diagram for proper perch orientation. The axle should lean back to give the proper caster angle. The nuts and studs that clamp the wishbone ball should be wired together, do not use cotter pins because the studs could still back out.

Oh Yes we have proper lean. I think it's leaning back better than Michel Jackson in his smooth criminal video. Ha!!!

Mopar_man wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 10:04 am

CudaMan wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 10:01 am

See this diagram for proper perch orientation. The axle should lean back to give the proper caster angle. The nuts and studs that clamp the wishbone ball should be wired together, do not use cotter pins because the studs could still back out.

Oh Yes we have proper lean. I think it's leaning back better than Michel Jackson in his smooth criminal video. Ha!!!

Terror Squad with Fat Joe was the Lean Back version I heard in my head! Just not acceptable to play in polite company though.

Sorry, I gave the wrong orientation of the dimples in the top of the perchases. They should be toward the back of the axle. Hope no one puts them on the way I first posted. If your car tends to pull to the side as you drive it, be sure to check this important step. Also check the alignment by the book, not by the "book of Norman" but by the Ford service manual.
Norm

Norman Kling wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 11:11 am

Sorry, I gave the wrong orientation of the dimples in the top of the perchases. They should be toward the back of the axle. Hope no one puts them on the way I first posted. If your car tends to pull to the side as you drive it, be sure to check this important step. Also check the alignment by the book, not by the "book of Norman" but by the Ford service manual.
Norm

Thanks! I knew what you meant. Yes the bumps on the top of the purchases are towards the rear of the car. I just painted up my small scratches tonight.

Norman, you can go back and correct your original post if you are worried about someone reading the wrong direction of the perches. Just make sure you are signed in and click on the little pencil icon.