MTFCA Forum

What is everyone using for a fuel shut off valve on the carburetor. I've been using the brass one that goes into the fuel inlet of the carburetor that Lang's sells for years. It has served me well but every one I get after a few months it becomes very hard to turn. Now after a couple years of use it's seeping fuel out the bottom and is time to replace it again. I was just curious as to what everyone else is using and maybe get a new idea.

Well if you're talking about the more expensive, period correct valve that only Langs sells, they say the maker isn't doing them. May even be passed away I don't know.
Only options are to take it apart and "lap it" with that yellow stuff...I forget the name of it...or buy one of those repop cheapie things that frankly ain't no good. After two weeks you'll be using pliers to turn it and it'll probly leak also. Rotsa ruck buddy!

Tim is correct - Time Saver is the lapping compound then re-assemble with Aviation fuel lube. The trick with the available valve is to lift up slightly while turning then slight downward pressure when you want it where it needs to be.

Steve is correct..you lift the handle to turn.
My valve at carb weeped..replaced with new one from Langs. Steve at Langs said they dry out and the fuel "cruds" them up over time. Said you can rebuild or get new one. Got new one and rebuilt old one...lapped the old valve..used EZTurn sealant on valve. Turns freely now..put away for use as a spare. The old valve was tough to turn..used a pliers sometimes.

I had a tube of that EZ turn. I bet it was only 5 years old and it was expired, so I had to throw it out. $20 down the tube.

Need to get one like Scott in WY uses, but I do not know what brand it is or where he gets it.

DHort wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 07, 2024 10:33 pm

I had a tube of that EZ turn. I bet it was only 5 years old and it was expired, so I had to throw it out. $20 down the tube.

Need to get one like Scott in WY uses, but I do not know what brand it is or where he gets it.

Did it really go bad? How did you know it was actually bad?
This product is used for aircraft & thus has traceability & an expiration date.
Had this discussion just last night. A fellow T'er suggested contacting aircraft sellers for the expired stuff that they can no longer sell.
Any experience to the contrary??

James, I just tried to order some EZ lube through Sky Supply USA but when I got to the e mail part it said I already have an account and wanted my password, I tried a different e mail and it came back to the same question. I wonder if the company was hacked or is there a different web site for the product?

I've been using the same tube of EZ Lube for 20 years - nothing in it's compound to go bad !

Modern gasoline has so much environmental additives that gum up most anything If the gas sits too long, like in a carb or shutoff, then things can stick.

My fix is simple, a shot or two of good penetrating oil. Lift the shut-off handle a bit, spray a shot, then twist a few times, spray again to freely turn.

Works for many months, then when sticky again, repeat the process. Easy peasy.

I've had the same can of EZ lube for over 10 years. It was expired when the guy gave it to me. He was an aircraft mechanic for Border Patrol and they had to toss it when it hit it's expiration date. Keep the can sealed and it'll be fine.

I found some old valves at a swap meet that I like to use. I don't know how old they are but I'm happy with the look and they work well.

Aircraft Spruce sells EZ lube, and so does Langs AFAIK.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... key=108045

I ordered the time saver from langs and got the ez lube coming from Aircraft Spruce. Sometime next week hopefully I can stop the leak in the valve.

Another of my brainfarts. I have built a valve in my mind a hundred times that would use manifold vacuum to open and when the manifold vacuum dropped to near zero would fall closed automatically. As long as gasoline remained in the carb bowl to start, the valve would require no attention at all. When the carb bowl was empty, after a long period of sitting or a leak, there would have to be a mechanical means of opening the valve momentarily in order to fill the bowl and start the car. Think of the pilot assembly on a gas burner with the vacuum representing the thermocouple circuit. The appeal to me is that my poor old brain wouldn't have to remember to shut the fuel off and my poor tired back wouldn't have to suffer the pilgrimage to the floor and back when I did remember. I think the valve could be small, black, sinple and nondescript. Do you think it is worth taking beyond the "brainfart" level?

The aircraft EZ lube works great. Make sure the extra goop does not block the hole or you will be taking everything apart again. While apart, try to stretch the spring a bit, not much, to make up for the collapse that happens naturally over the years.

I used a modern commercial brass ball valve, but my son turned a piece of brass round bar stock with a hole up the middle. I JB welded the “vintage looking” brass piece over the ugly and modern looking sheet metal valve handle.
Not original or vintage, but it works for me and doesn’t stand out as out-of-place (except to the hard-core purist!).